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8n + JD 214t = ????


Yrs ago just for fun I baled hay with a JD BO and JD 214 baler which is about 1/2 the hp of an 8N and it did just fine. This was on level ground and only pulling baler no wagon. Not having LPTO one must be looking ahead for any clumps,lumps in the windrow.
 
A B is about the same as an 8N.

Sure you can do it. It will suck big time. The baler will jack your tractor back and forth, you don't have live power so you stand a good chance of plugging the baler if you get in a bit of trouble. You won't have enough zoop to haul a wagon on anything but level or a downhill grade.
You will be hating life but you'll be baling with your 8N.
 
The 8N will power the baler if the hay/windrow is not too big. The problem is that the 8N is light enough that the baler will push it around on any type of slope. Also make sure the over running clutch on the baler is working correctly. If it is not it will push the 8N when you try to stop.

So if you want to drop the bales on the ground and if the ground is fairly flat than you can get by. Don"t pull a wagon and no hills.
 
If it was a later JD it should have had about 20 PTO HP compaired to the Ford at 25 PTO HP but your ground speed would in low gear be about half what it would be in the Ford. I would say forget it. I think the 214 is larger than the 14 and that would give it a load.
 
we never used anything smaller than our 77 Oliver and we preferred the 830 Case, you would pull it if ok you could find a baler with an engine, other wise it's going to be interesting, I'd love to come and watch!
 
Make certain the drawbolt fits tight in both the
tractor drawbar and the baler hitch. Any slop will
turn the combination into a jolting pounding menace
to operate.
 
I live in New Port Richey on the West Coast, but I own some property in Hardee County, about 10 west of Avon Park.
 

Sounds like a fun endeavor/experiment to me - assuming this will be more of small acreage hobby type operation. I would highly recommend a true drawbar kit as connecting a baler to the 3ph drawbar would be unsafe.

In my opinion, your tractors biggest hurdle will be that it is almost too fast in first gear with the throttle at 540 rpm (where you need to be with a PTO baler). That said it can be worked around with very very careful raking by sizing the windrows optimally because adjusting your ground speed will not be possible. Lack of live PTO is a hurdle but not a deal breaker - if worst comes to worst simply pull out of the windrow. Being on flat ground and not pulling a wagon will help your limited hp.

FWIW: I bale with a compact tractor smaller in hp than your 8N and it does not have live PTO hp and it works okay. My one advantage though is I do have a slection of slower gears to choose from as compared to your 8N, but I still rake carefully. I am less optimistic about running the haybine though.
 
ok, thanks for that insight, i plan on haying about 10 acres, so not a whole lot. it will be more of a tax break for me, and i will not be pulling a wagon. i basically just want enough equipment on site to show i'm making an effort. that being said, if i can do enough to make a few bucks that would be great too.
 
We baled with a Minneapolis Moline R and an Allis 303 on less than flat ground and pulled a small rack, I recall it did OK. The Moline was about the same power as an 8n though possibly wieghed more. I think for what you want to do give it a shot. If it does not work out you have an excuse to buy another larger tractor, :)
Baling10002.jpg
 
waterman74,

Are you close to the Florida Flywheelers site? I will be down there for the January and February show.
 

I believe they are around FT Meade, or Lakeland, not sure. But they have an annual gig in Zolfo Springs which is called Pioneer Park Days, which I have attended since I could probably crawl, except for lately because of my work schedule..I think the last time was in 05 or 06...amazing display of equip is all i can say
 
I would try it. What do you have to lose. Without the live pto when you hit a slug or hard spot quickly step on the clutch, pop it into neutral and let the clutch out again to get through that. It will come natural after awhile and you won't miss a beat. I would enjoy the challange. Of course I grew up doing that kind of stuff with those smaller tractors.
 
(quoted from post at 04:09:13 12/12/10) I would try it. What do you have to lose. Without the live pto when you hit a slug or hard spot quickly step on the clutch, pop it into neutral and let the clutch out again to get through that. It will come natural after awhile and you won't miss a beat. I would enjoy the challange. Of course I grew up doing that kind of stuff with those smaller tractors.
Click to expand...

Yeah I think if i can get it I'll try it. It may not be perfect, but from everyone's posts it's worth a shot, if not
I can probably sell it for the same amount
 
Your 8N does not have any remote hydraulic on it. You would not be able to lift the haybine up for turns. Plus your gearing is way off. The big problem is horsepower. A NH 479 in good hay can take 50-60 horsepower. I have a nieghbor that uses a WD45 on a JD 1209 and he has his hands full in four foot timothy hay.

I would look for a three point drum mower. Your tractor would pick it up easily and they cut well.
 
(quoted from post at 05:11:04 12/12/10) Your 8N does not have any remote hydraulic on it. You would not be able to lift the haybine up for turns. Plus your gearing is way off. The big problem is horsepower. A NH 479 in good hay can take 50-60 horsepower. I have a nieghbor that uses a WD45 on a JD 1209 and he has his hands full in four foot timothy hay.

I would look for a three point drum mower. Your tractor would pick it up easily and they cut well.
Click to expand...

ok, thanks for the reply, so the haybine is out...anymore opinions on the baler JD 214T
 
(quoted from post at 05:14:09 12/12/10)
(quoted from post at 05:11:04 12/12/10) Your 8N does not have any remote hydraulic on it. You would not be able to lift the haybine up for turns. Plus your gearing is way off. The big problem is horsepower. A NH 479 in good hay can take 50-60 horsepower. I have a nieghbor that uses a WD45 on a JD 1209 and he has his hands full in four foot timothy hay.

I would look for a three point drum mower. Your tractor would pick it up easily and they cut well.
Click to expand...

ok, thanks for the reply, so the haybine is out...anymore opinions on the baler JD 214T
Click to expand...

Windrows should be more to the light side, but not too light as then the baler won't make consisent bale size and weight bales. What you want to avoid is too heavy as you have no way of stopping to let the baler catch up in heavy stuff and you will not have slower gears to choose from either. After some experience, you will get a feel for it by sound. Some tractors you can literally pull/knock them out of gear (without clutching)and let baler catch up. Once the baler clears itself of the slug, I would then recommend you back up 10ft or so that when you start going forward again the baler starts up in zero hay and will be at operating rpm by the time you get to the windrow again. Another option is to literally Zig out of the windrow and then Zig back in when it clears itself. Bale the portion you missed later.

I believe the Haybine will be out, more due to sheer weight of the haybine and hp requirements over your lack of hydraulics. Your 8N will easily power a sickle mower though(cheap choice) or a drum mower of the proper size(more expensive choice). I purchased junker 9' haybine late this summer - no way would I try to power it with the little tractor that I have been baling with. My plan is to use it on a DC Case which does not have hydraulics. I will use a ratchet cylinder to raise and lower it. I have sorta already tried it out on a JD A and it ran the haybine but defitiely knew it was back there and this was only in drought damaged scrub hay that was not thick nor tough.

The Minnie above while similar in hp has much more engine torque and weight.

Lastly, there are literally hours worth of reading on this (and other forums) regarding haying with small and low hp tractors. Do some searching for other tractors similar to yours You will read success and horror stories.
 
We Bailed over 150 acres a year with a JD B and a 14 t bailer. No Problems Bailed in 2nd and 3rd gear. Only in very heavy windrows down into 1st. The 8n will run it but will put alot of extra pressure on the pto. I have a 351 for bailing and it worked excellent. Tried the vac but like everyone else has commented too high of gearing. Bailed ok in light rows with the occaisional pulling out of gear. I have a NH 66 baler that has the motor on it for when I have to pull it with the farmall super a works ok but puts alot of wear on your back, I usually I have the pto drive on it cause the engine is a pain in the --- to get started.

The 214 will not fit onto the 6.5 trailer very well. Its 8 ft wide. If you can figure it out how to block the baler up you could however back the trailer under it and leave the bailer on blocks on the trailer and take the wheels off. I have doen it in the past with my trailer, but plan on a couple of hours to do it unless you have access to a crane. How far do you have to travel with it?
 
Probably a couple of hundred miles, I may have to just rent a larger trailer. FYI I'm in the market for a small baler in Florida if anyone hears or sees one.
 
(quoted from post at 17:33:16 12/12/10)
waterman74
A sq hay baler isn't easy to load on any size trailer. I'd take a spare 6 hole impl wheel wt tire and repack wheels brgs and tow it home.
Click to expand...

Ahhh so thats how it's done... but, I don't recall seeing a hitch for a ball, so how exactly does that work?
 
You take the ball off of your slide in Reese hitch drawbar and then use a regular tractor drawbar pin. (If not too high in the air and you have a heavy duty step bumper, then it is also possible to use a step bumper hitch hole from your pick-up).

If you tow it, keep the speeds 35 mph (maybe 40 mph) or so max. and definitely determine if the wheels on the baler have plain bushings or wheel bearings in them when you pack them. Grease plain bushings frequently during your road and keep the speeds slower. Regualr type taper wheel bearings will be more tolerant of speeds and will not require as frequent of greasings. Implement tires are not speed rated tires and plus these are old so having extras is good too.

JD parts list is available for free online viewing so you should be able to determine wheel sizes and types to take extras with you.
 
Yeah, thanks for that. I talked to the guy today, he said he would deliver , but we didn't get to a price. I'm still deciding whether to try this or work towards a better tractor and maybe start haying next year. I did find this.... is this baler that much smaller than the JD.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjyJKx4U4vE

I did notice he had the PTO started before he actually started moving...not sure how he did that unless he had the famed Sherman live PTO and his windrows were pretty small.
 
(quoted from post at 22:40:14 12/11/10)
oh, any idea if that baler will fit on a 16x6.5 trailer?
Click to expand...

I doubt it; I bought a NH 315 in Louisians & it won't fit my trailer. Looking for a gooseneck now so I can go back & get it in the spring :( About 450 miles each way.

I did pull a couple of IH balers on their own wheels about 150 miles each; quite an ordeal.

Lew
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:19 12/12/10)

I did notice he had the PTO started before he actually started moving...not sure how he did that unless he had the famed Sherman live PTO and his windrows were pretty small.
Click to expand...

Without being there I think the man on youtube with the 8N started baler turning then aided by the over-running clutch on the haybaler depressed clutch,put tractor in gear and started moving toward windrow. I did it that way with my JD BO. This makes it easier on the clutch because you're not starting both machines turning at the same time.
 
When I was 18, nieghbor broke his leg. His hay needed bailing, He had a 8n hooked to his 14t and I went to bale his hay. After the first bale, I went home and got dads D17 and finished baleing, FORGET IT Tractor is too light no live power,just trouble waiting to happen.
 
I am going to ask what type of hay will you have, something that does not make a lot of groth or a very high yealding type of hay? I do not know the southern types but here in Ohio alfalfa is 4 to 5 cuttings per year and the per acre yield in devided out more and never as heavy a 1 time yield as others, Red clover is cut 2 times a year and has about double the volume per cutting of alfalfa so you see that if you have the heavy yielding types then you will need more power to operate. Unless it is the higher yield hay then a 7' bar mower would work good for you with a seperate pull type conditioner to follow up. Now the baler you are talking about is getting to the higher capacity type baler that takes more power just to operate empty as they run faster. Stick with the lower capacity baler if your hay is the lower yield types and in Deere think 14T, not 214T or better yet a New holland 65, op perhaps a 66 or S66, older balers, would work good behind your tractor for up to 3 ton per acre per cutting, if your type of hay is in the 5 ton per acre per cutting yield then you have to think the high capacity type baler with a tractor twice as big as yours. I am figuring with what I call normal hay and if your 8N is in good strong condition then a smaller lower capacity baler like that NH 65 will work OK but not the high capacity baler that you are considering. And if your 8N is the side mount distributor model then it has a couple of more HP than the front mount model so that would be a plus. Just remember that the ones that say they run the larger balers have with their tractors a ground speed about one half as fast as your lowest ground speed is and that will make a big difference. These are the questions that the posters skiped.
 
many years ago I tried to run a 14T with my 8N on level ground just for kicks ( I have larger tractors ) the 8N had a rebuilt engine, the hay was 1st cut grass quite thick. It was way too much for the 8N. The only way I think you could do it would be if the baler had an engine on it, and the ground was level
 

A good baler is harder to find than a bigger tractor. Best buy that baler if it looks good and does not miss bales. Would be good to have it run to make sure it works good. You can find a bigger ford tractor with live pto any day of the week. Took me a year to find a good, inexpensive baler. Finally found one and bought it for $200. Baled 90 bales with it right before the bad weather and it only missed 1 bale. Paid for the baler with that first run.

John
 
(quoted from post at 10:14:33 12/16/10)
A good baler is harder to find than a bigger tractor.<<snip>>John
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If other areas are similar to here tractor prices are WAY down from a few years ago. I bought a Ford 4000 diesel (about 45 hp I think) about 5 years ago for 3800 plus delivery; past summer I got a Ford 9600 (100+ hp) with a/c cab (air didn't work but I completely overhauled that myself for about 800 bux) for 4200 delivered (it was about 120 miles from here). The 9600 would have been probably about 15k a couple of years ago. I only had 3 tractors with air conditioned cabs in about 100 mile radius in the 5k price range to choose from at that time.

Lew
 

Yes resale prices have weakened on all used farm equipment in the last few yrs. In the past few yrs in my area a Ford 9600 would have set a long while before it brought $15K. Larger hp tractors aren't in as much demand as the smaller ones.
 

Yeah we're pretty close together but a few years ago I looked at prices on air conditioned tractors; prices scared me to death! I got this one below Austin so the free delivery was a definite plus.

Lew
 
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