Anyone run a 3pt disc mower?

495man

Well-known Member
Been busy getting hay put up, we added a disc mower (NH HM235) to the equipment line up this year, replacing a sickle bar mower. Where as the sickle bar mower had a skid shoe on both ends of the cutter bar, the disc mower only has a skid shoe on the inner end.

The manual says run the remote in float to let the cutter bar follow contours, but if you do that you end up with the outer end cutting lower than the inner end (that sets the height), you can hold the bar in position with the remote cylinder, to cut even, but you have to eyeball it every time you pick up the mower and set it down, and of course you can't really see how it's cutting until after you've made a pass.

I normally leave the bar down except when turning left so it's not like a continuous set and reset.

Do other disc mowers have an outboard shoe? Didn't even think of that when we bought this one. I don't want the entire cutter bar dragging on the ground as most of our fields are rougher and I don't need the cutter bar kicking back all the time.

mower1.jpg


mower2.jpg
 
Kuhn's have full shoes under each disc... plus a long shoe on the inner end of the bar.
I always level the bar on the linkage crank so that the bar is more or less level when you raise the mower. If you don't do that then you're placing more weight on the outer end of the bar and that will wear the bottom side of the bar off at the outer end as well as contribute to a lot more unlatching of the breakaway...
When the bar is level I can then run with the valve in float or neutral. Doesn't matter which...
as I always lower it fully anyhow.

Rod
 

From the picture it looks like you have the 3ph too high which will raise the cutterbar next to the tractor.

KEH
 

495man
If your field is level you don't need to put you remote control in float position. Unlike a sickle mower one doesn't need to raise cutter bar to cross cut hay as a disc mower won't plug as easy as a sickle mower
 

All right, think I've got it set, turns out I just have to give more "management" to the remote cylinder as it will seep down slightly causing the outer end to drop, and thus eventually drag more than I want and cutting lower and kicking back easier. I'm not running in float, just valve lever in neutral.

Just a matter of practice and experience with a new machine.

Mowed some more today and no issues.

The mower frame is level on the tractor and set up exactly as the book states. The 3pt height is fixed on these mowers and it relies on the remote cylinder to raise the cutter bar off the ground and make the cutter bar "level" Another chain controls how far the inner shoe drops in relation to the ground.

I do not raise the mower at all, even in mowed crop, except when turning left so the outer end doesn't whip & drag
 
I have a JF disc mower from Denmark. It has shoes at each end and says to use the float setting. It has a tension spring that tightens when the cutter bar is lowered. The manual says that if the spring is too tight, the inner shoe can be too light and the outer end would cut lower.
 

Ours has a tension spring that tightens as well, but it isn't getting too tight.
 

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