Fertilizer, pounds per acre?

Have an IH 101 fertilizer unit on the side of my Farmall 140. Have the manual and am almost ready to plant. So please tell this new farmer how many pounds of fertilizer per acre are required for a regular garden plot? All the info and settings are in pounds per acre.
Thanks
OB

Do a soil test you may need some lime as well.
Understand soil test results

Soil has some nutrients in it. Every plot is different, don't know what you have.

Crops need nutrients. Every crop has different needs.

So, there is no one answer. It would be helpful to have a soil test & see what your soil has. Don't need one every year, just to get an idea. Heck they aren't all that accurate to begin with, but it gives you something to start with.

The most important is soil ph - soils under 6.0ph are acid, and will grab onto & hold tighly any of your fertilizer. Even if you apply a lot of fertilizer, the plants won't be able to pry it loose from an acidic soil. So the simple soil ph test is real important. Me, I have limestone based soils, they are actually too high in ph, not too low, so I don't need lime, and have to deal with high-ph issues.

But, the ph is most important.

After that, you can have the soil test tell you basic P & K fertilizer availability in your soil, and add some of each to bring your soil up to a proper level. OR, you can assume your crop is going to need 'x' amount of each p & k to bring your soils up.

N is typically needed all the time for any grass type of crop, and more is better. Legume crops like alfalpha, peas, beans, clovers will make their own N plus some extra, and actually can be harmed by putting too much N on them - they get lazy and don't make any of their own, and run out towards fall.

Several garden crops like cabbage/letuce need N, but don't want too much of it or they get all big, lush, green, but forget to produce the good parts we want - all show, no go!

So, there's a little more science to it than just dumping a bunch of lbs of fertilizer on the ground and plant.

For small areas or just a hobby, it's not critical to get every test just perfectly done.... But the more you try to get close to knowing what you have & what your crop(s) will need, the better off you will be. This is typically a 3-5 year plan, doesn't happen in one year, so you can start slow, work your way up, etc.

A lot of folks just dump 'x' lbs of 19-19-19 on their ground, and figure thay are good.

If you want to be really good, start with a ph test at least, try to get your ph level right if it needs correcting, and you can then build your P & K to where it needs to be. Add enough N for the various different crops.

--->Paul

Thanks for the great info Paul I recently had a soil test done. The results were a ph of 6. The assistant county agent said that was just right for vegetables here in NW Florida? Guess I need to get a more definitive test done. I'll have one turned in tomorrow.

I would not broadcast fertilizer over all of the garden plot. Good replies on getting a ph reading on your soil. When I grew potatoes I sprinkled fertilizer right in the furrow and then dragged a chain in the furrow to mix the soil and fertilizer. Then dropped my seed potato cuttings. When the potato plants were
up and looking good I would sidedress them again lightly with fertilizer. For my plants I use liquid fertilizer. I use one tablespoon in a gallon of water and pour it in with the plants when planting them. I usually give them another feeding once they're established. I used it on sweet corn too. I soaked my seed in the liquid fertilizer then planted the seed and
I would then pour the liquid over the seed then cover them. Once the corn was well esbalished I would sidedress it by sprinkling garden fertilizer along each row. I used my garden tractor for making the furrows for the potatoes and corn. Hal

good starting point is 300-400 lbs per acre of
19-19-19 to 12-12-12
soil sample will tell better also as was said each crop needs are different
good luck
Ron