Haybine Roller Replacement?

Mark Susol · Jun 6, 2008

has anyone ever replaced the roller on the NH 469? I have one I got last year that I was able to mow 20 acres with. the top roller is missing the rubber, and the guy before me let fence wire get into the bearing on the pto side so that bearing is now bad.

so i'm considering at least changing the bearing, is it as simple as 4 bolts, pull the sprocket and replace? the guard seems to be in the way of using a sprocket puller.

but has anyone actually replaced the top roller? it seems you have to take the machine apart a lot to get the roller out. newer models have this slot for the rollers to slide out.

also, the sprocket on the top roller is not well aligned with drive sprocket so the tensioner tends not to help keep the chain on. How exactly do i get the sprocket out to the edge of the bearing axle ? to align?

the top roller cost like $1100..most people say to get another used unit vs repairing. seems like this unit is in good condition minus the top roller.

E.B. Haymakin' · Jun 6, 2008

I think I have seen a post on here about a company that can recondition existing rollers? I think HayDr may have posted it.

Mark Susol · Jun 6, 2008

if that means removing them and sending out, fuel cost would prohibit that and if i could get the one out I'd probably put a new one in

or one out of another junker

bison · Jun 7, 2008

If I am not mistaken,depending on the model, to get the roller out, to remove the sprocket bump the sprocket a bit further on the shaft, that should free the tapered key. clean the shaft behind the sprock from paint or rust first. to get the bearings of might be difficult. in case there is a split flange use a crowbar to pull the rear flange over the bearing if brg wont come along[get a new flange half for that] the shaft has a flange that is bolted to the roller on both sides . acces is trough a hole in the tensioner swingarm .the roller comes out trough the top.I had to build a puller to get the bearings of.
get 2 5/16 bolts that will extent from behind the brgs to 1" beyond shaft, cut the bolthead away on 3 sides,leave 1 flat, grind that side of the shank down to confirm with the curve of the brg so you have a hook,grind opposite side flat to get clearance, use a steeringwheel puller head on the shaft ,place bolthooks behind brg [2 sides]assemble the bolts and puller with nuts and pull brg of.

the tapered key holds the sprocket in place,removal is mentioned above. clean shaft and sprocket bore , align with a straightedge alongside both sprockets and hammer key in place.

new roller is cheaper than buying other bine.

hope this gets you going

Anonymous-0 · Jun 7, 2008

Did the bearing job last season. Take it from me, that bearing ain't coming off without a torch. No way to get the puller jaws behind it. I ended up just cutting the sob off.

You'll also need a puller for the sprocket. A torch helped a lot to loosen that up too.

Did I mention that an oxy/acetylene torch is very helpful with this job?

Mark Susol · Jun 7, 2008

on the PTO side..did you remove anything to get better access to the bearing/sprocket? the driveline has a convertor box that comes through a guard..the guard itself blocks access to putting a puller on the sprocket.

it seems i need to put a puller on the sprocket to get it on the key and out towards the ends of the shaft? very difficult to access. looks like you want to take the machine apart greatly to access this side.

the next time someone does this kind of repair, grab a camera and take a couple photos for us.

our farmer...the bearing in question is actually not intact enough to be that difficult, but if i go through this effort i should replace the top roller. i'm sure after 20 acres of use i'll be needing to replace the roller because of this bearing anyway.

bison · Jun 7, 2008

I just replaced the rollers in My NH 114 last week,I have owned it since 1987,it has slept outside and never been apart.[crimper that is]

The day before Yesterday I happened to change the bearings and worn out flanges on the top roller on a nabors old NH bine, i think a 488 ,hardly paint left on it, has slept outside all its life and is terribly neglected. I did not use a torch on either bine but used procedure stated in my other post. But on a stuborn one one may have to use a torch.I did not have to.

Maybe you forgot to take the locking rings off the brgs? cleaning the shaft and filing nicks away and using W40 all helps a lot.

my 2 c worth

Anonymous-0 · Jun 7, 2008

Nope. Cut it off too. Wrestling the sprocket off the shaft convinced me to use the smoke wrench on the bearings.
Honestly, the job probably could have been done without a torch, with several additional hours, busted knuckles and cuss words. I just couldn't see how to get a puller behind the bearing. The shrouds were cheap, only a couple bucks. Glad your job went ok, but in my case the smoke wrench made it a whole lot easier and faster. Probably got the whole job done in less than 2 hours.

The filing and PB blaster worked great for putting the machine back together though!

bison · Jun 7, 2008

the brg flanges as you call shrouds i guess, i did not save them either but forced them over the brg with the crowbar, that way there is just enough room between the bearing and hole in the swingarm to get two modified 7/16 bolts trough and behind and forcing with the puller there was no room for the legs[bolts] to spread and slip off the edge of the brg.the brgs where pretty tight as they squeeled like a stuck pig when they broke loose

HAYBOY1 · Jun 8, 2008

there was a post I left, maybe it was on NAT as well, but Circle C equipment in Oregon will do it. Look them up, but in this scenario, I do not think the money spent will be worth the hassle. I changed my rolls once on a 469......ONCE, never again, thats all I will say

Mark Susol · Jun 8, 2008

well I'm considering changing just the bad bearing BUT I'm afraid I won't be able to get a new bearing on the shaft. other than the missing conditioner, the machine operates well but the chain jumps because of the bearing.

I'm working primarily with orchard grass and other assorted grasses and timothy volunteer. I've been told i don't need the conditioner as much...if I have enough days for drying. Of course grass wrapping on the metal roller is a pain..when its too wet to mow apparently.

Anonymous-0 · Aug 8, 2008

Bison -

I recently lost my uncle who had a New Holland haybine and had already purchased a new roller to be put in. He was pretty much the only one around who knew how to do get the old one out. My husband and another uncle are trying to finish the job. One side seems to be loosened but we are unsure where to go from here.

I see you mentioned you posted how you replaced yours but I can't seem to find that post.

Can you offer any advice or direct me to the detailed description of the job?

Thanks!

Haybine Roller Replacement?

Mark Susol

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