How to remove flange bearings?

dep · Jul 28, 2009

How do you get those common implement flange type barings off? I am talking about the ones that have 2 stamped steel flanges on each side with 2-3 bolts and the bearing sanwiched in between, with a shaft collar and set screw on the outside. Are those a press on fit, or just a slip on fit? Cant use a puller cause it will just bend over the rear flange.

Thanks

glennster · Jul 28, 2009

the bearing is a slip fit on the shaft. the collar is what locks it down. the lip on the bearing is kind of an eccentric circle so that when the collar is installed, you use a punch in the dimple and tap the collars so it spins and locks down. then the set screws are tightened. to remove em, loosen the set screws, the tap the collar one way or the other till it spins loose. if the set screws are froze, use a cut off wheel to cut thru the collar some and break it off with a chisel.

bison · Jul 28, 2009

If the brg is rusted on the shaft, I found it easyer to just bust the outer race with hammer and chisel and cut trough the inner race with a zip disc on the grinder.
Some times soaking with penetrating oil and moving the brg further up the shaft might help as well to loosen it up,as long as you can clean the shaft behind the offending brg with emerycloth before trying.

TractormanNC · Jul 28, 2009

Don't waste time. Use the blue wrench.

Bob · Jul 28, 2009

If the collar was properly installed, it was locked by turning it in the direction of shaft rotation, sop you turn it in the OPPOSITE direction of shaft rotation to loosen it.

Bob · Jul 28, 2009

P.S....

Use "loosen juice" and once the collar is off, use a hammer and punch and MORE loosen juice and try to tap the bearing inner race a LITTLE farther onto the shaft. If you get the right rhythm going, it will jar the bearing loose from the shaft and allow the penetrating oil to work between the bearing and the shaft and the bearing will eventually slide off by hand.

RodinNS · Jul 28, 2009

Pick the seal out of the bearing then blow the races away with the torch.
There is the odd time that you can get the shaf tmoving out enough to get a puller between the bearing and the back flangette... but not often.
I don't waste time on them anymore. Most of those bearings are only 20-50 bucks each, probably should ahve been replaced anyway... and my time is worth more than that if the machine needs to be in the field.
Cut it out and get on with life.
Grind the nicks down with a sanding wheel and install new bearings.

Rod

Anonymous-0 · Jul 28, 2009

i know of the kind you refer to. my hesston mower has 'em. the shaft has to be really clean so it can slide off. you'll probably need a real steady hand with a torch to cut it altho tapping it with a punch might loosen it.

IaGary · Jul 28, 2009

All of mine are turned opposite of shaft rotion to tighten or lock them in postion.

That way the collar tightens as the shaft turns.

That was the way I was taught years and years ago. Every bearing we have ever installed or removed at the weld shop is done this way.

Gary

johns48jdb · Jul 28, 2009

glen is right on with his comments. once you decide which way the collar turns make a note of it on the machine so nest time you'll know which way to turn it. it doesn't take much to decide which way it should go.

Don-Wi · Jul 28, 2009

I think this is one of those things just like what type of oil and what brand is best- no 2 guys can ever agree.

That being said, I use to think that too.

But after thinking about it, I think going in the direction of rotation is right. Tne collar is held solid to the shaft with a set screw, so it should always pull in the same direction. If the bearing race is gonna slip, it would turn itself against the direction of rotation, and tighter in the locking collar.

Of coarse I've done them both ways and don't think I've had much troubles with ones that I've locked down.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Bob · Jul 28, 2009

Gary, think about it... if you turn the collar the opposite way of shaft rotation, at startup the tendency will be for the collar to work loose, then lock up again when it catches up to the bearing in the direction of shaft rotation, where it should have been locked in the first place.

You don't have to take my word for which way is correct. Here's an excerpt from an SKF bearing manual. I'm sure we can agree SKF is one of the oldest, largest, and highest-quality bearing manufacturers in the world.

Can we agree with the pros or are you SMARTER then their engineers?

(I just HATE it when bad information gets posted and once it posted (and later in the archives) it becomes "gospel". And, yes, I've made my share off gaffs on here, but try to make it a point to "stand corrected" when someone straightens me out.)

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Bearings1.jpg">

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Bearings2B.jpg">

Bob · Jul 28, 2009

As my answer to Gary clarifies, this is NOT a "gray" issue. It's "black and white". Locking the collar IN the direction of shaft rotation IS the correct way.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 28, 2009

acetylene torch works for me!!

Bob · Jul 28, 2009

It also doesn't take much to lock it (correctly) in the direction of shaft rotation and KNOW next time it will come loose in the direction OPPOSITE of shaft rotation.

Simply repeating what was done before without noting if it is correct isn't very good repair practice!

johns48jdb · Jul 29, 2009

very true. i never mind fixing anything as long as i find out what the problem is. i hate to tear into something and can't find out any reason for it to be torn up and just put it back up and hope for the best. i'd rather fix it right the first time.

IaGary · Jul 29, 2009

Well I'll be.

All these years we have been doing it wrong.

We never had any come back loose.

I'm guessing it doesn't really make much difference if you get locked tight.

Sorry for the bad info. But I will keep doing it.

Probably installed ten of thousands wrong over the past 30 years.

JMS/.MN · Jul 29, 2009

I"ve always been taught to tighten in the direction of rotation, and any book that addressed the subject said the same. I don"t spend much time trying to loosen them. Never ruined a shaft yet, but nicked a few. I cut through most of the race, then let go of the oxy lever and let the remaining metal heat and bubble- it will separate from the shaft without cutting the shaft.

Bill from wisc · Jul 29, 2009

There is a puller made to take the bearings off the shaft. It is sold by the shoup company out off Ill.It sells for about 179.00 Works good if the shafts are not ground up too bad. pulls off the collar or off the the inner race if the bearing has broken. Tho if there is no danger of catching machine on fire, torch does wonders.

dep · Jul 29, 2009

Bob, thanks for the help. Do you think you can send me a scan of that page in the SKF catalog?

Anonymous-0 · Jul 29, 2009

there is no collar on these bearings. the flanges hold them on.

Ole Shovel · Jul 30, 2009

Something else besides a cutting torch that works very well to get them off is those abrasive cut off wheels in a air grinder or small electric 4 1/2" grinder. Slice the outer bearing if hasn't broke off yet and will let it expand to come off. Same for the inner race if stuck on shaft slicing it will let it expand to come off the shaft easily. Then you can clean and dress the shaft back with a file or emery cloth. If it's one you find really hard to get off and stuck and find yourself changing it a lot put a light coating of anti seize on the shaft before putting the new one on. Yes will still get sparks from the cut off wheels so be careful having water and fire extinguisher handy but won't have near the heat on everything like from a cutting torch.

Phillip Tibbetts · Jul 30, 2009

I've sen them installed both ways with no problems but I would follow SKF instructions. These are a big improvement over the old set screw lock to the shaft type. The 4 1/2 inch cutting discs .045 thick will cut through the inner race quite fast, If you cut in 2 places 180 degrees apart the race will fall off then all you need to do is clean up the shaft so the new bearing will slide on.

How to remove flange bearings?

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