Gleaner A help

ESVADuke

Member
Trying to make repairs to a Gleaner A for small acreage work. I have both a corn and grain head. I now have a working straw spreader thanks to help on a previous thread.
Looking for advice on several other topics.

Brakes: anyone rebuilt these cylinders under the deck? Options?

Concaves: I've seen mention of "built up" concaves from an outfit in Indiana (?). How do I know if these are "built up"? New bolts suggest these were replaced not long ago. Leave them as is?

Flat, tooth plates under the corn head: name? should they be flat or bent up at the front? Two outside ones are bent, but also some teeth worn away from contact, so maybe are supposed to be flat?.

Bearing is shot in the unloading auger small universal joint. How do you get this out? Looks sealed, no spring clips in the ends, inner half welded to the inside of the tube by two struts. I need to remove it to fix the blades and replace the bearing.

Minor rust in the grain bin, was thinking of using Por-15, anyone use it?

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Should be able to buy brake cylinder kits at an automotive supply store. There will be the size of the bore on the cups. 1 1/8, 1
1/4, etc.

Your cylinder bars look quite worn.

The plates on your snapping rolls don't look too bad. The jagged plates next to the snapping rolls are flat, and are adjusted
close to the snapping rolls to try to keep them from wrapping with grass, husks, etc.

On newer Gleaners one, or both end(s) of the universal joint was threaded, so could be unscrewed so you could get it where you
could work on it. I have no idea if this one is.
 
Look at the outside edges of your cylinder bars. They never ware out there so you can tell how much they are worn in the middle.
 
Thanks for the replies, I really appreciate the help, especially your patience with a combine novice. My custom guy is retiring, and I am hoping this will fill the gap, especially when I retire from from my other job.

It is in pretty good shape for 60 years old. Most of the belts, especially the main ones, are new, all four tires are nearly new, the engine runs good, the insides look OK. Just a few sheet metal patches, throttle control, replace the cab fans, foam on the seat, etc. Didn't cost me much, and seems a good starting point. I'm sure I'll run into some other issues.
 
Over the weekend I got the rust coated in the grain bin with POR-15, tough stuff. Painted the raised letters just to make me feel good. Oil change, radiator flush, new spark plugs and wires. Molded a fiberglas curved plate for the tailing return auger shaft, Lots of other minor repairs.

I can't find a diagram of any steering brakes (wheel brakes) in the manuals and parts lists for A, R, AII, E, only the "parking brake". Was this optional?

Got the brake cylinders off and apart, buggered one of the fill caps, made an impression of the other in bondo and molded a new top onto the damaged one with JB Weld. The insides of the cylinders were in pretty good shape, cleaning mostly needed, but had some questions.

Why are there different sized apertures for the outlet lines? Shouldn't make a difference I'm guessing, but perhaps one replaced sometime ago, or is there a reason for it?

What are the discs with the fluted edges? They were free in the reservoirs.

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Update.

C Trimpe Inc., IN, had a set of built up and hardened Gleaner A cylinder bars laying around. I'll keep mine for backup, still can be turned around.

Ordered concave bars for a "C", hoping they can be cut to length and holes drilled to fit. Going to use 1, 3, 5 positions as it is now for soy, corn and small grains, should that be different for small grains?

Is there a table somewhere that lists recommended starting places for cylinder bar-concave clearances for different crops? I seem to remember seeing it somewhere but now can't find it. I don't see it in the operator's manual. Any advice?

Was going to remove the raddle chain and replace some missing wooden slats but found Manchester Manufacturing in OK that makes raddle chains with square tubular steel. Other than increased wear on the false bottom, I'm guessing this will be more durable.

Still need to figure out how to get the universal joint apart for the unloading auger, may be a torch solution.

Based on my past custom charges, the purchase and rebuilt costs will mean this thing needs to work for 2-3 years to pay for itself.
 
List of all the manuals I could find. Some came with the combine, some from eBay. Some helpful, some not so much. fair amount of redundancy. If I can look anything up for someone, let me know.

Allis Chalmers Manufacturing Co. Delivery Record Models "A" and "R" Self Propelled Gleaner Baldwin Combines. Delivery forms: Original copy for Allis Chalmers Branch, 2nd copy for Dealer s File, 3rd copy for Customer, + 53 Pages.

Allis Chalmers Manufacturing Co. Delivery Record Model A Cornheads used on Model "A" Gleaner Baldwin Combine. Delivery forms: Original copy for Allis Chalmers Branch, 2nd copy for Dealer s File, 3rd copy for Customer, + 33 Pages.

Allis Chalmers Manufacturing Co. Delivery Record Operators Instructions for Model "A" Self-Propelled Gleaner Baldwin Combine with Two Row Corn Head Built by Allis Chalmers Mfg. Co. Delivery forms: Original copy for Allis Chalmers Branch, 2nd copy for Dealer s File, 3rd copy for Customer, + 41 Pages. Form TM-162A

Allis Chalmers Agricultural Equipment Division. 1975. Service Manual Model "A", "R", & "B" Gleaner Baldwin Combines. 174 Pages. Part No. 9003422.

Allis Chalmers. Parts List Models "A" and "R" Self-Propelled Gleaner Baldwin Combines Built by Allis-Chalmers Mfg. Co. Prior to Serial No. 14053. 254 Pages. Part No. 9003339.

Allis Chalmers. 1963. Dealers Parts Catalog. Section II- Combine Models "A" and "R" Self Propelled Gleaner Baldwin Combines. Combine Serial No 14053 and up. 212 Pages. From D:42.

Allis Chalmers. 1960. Dealers Parts Catalog. Section III- Corn Head on Model "A" Self Propelled Gleaner Baldwin Combine. 51 Pages. Form D:42.

Allis Chalmers. 1957. Dealers Parts Catalog Special Attachments for Self-Propelled Gleaner Baldwin Combines. 96 Pages. Form D-39.
 

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