Gleaner m header removal

I need help understanding how to remove my header. I don't understand how those 2 wedge pins work. I can push them in but they pop out when I go to the other side to push the other one in. They won't slide back into the top part of that upside down L slot and the operators manual is worthless as crap. I'm getting ticked off enough that I want to cut that pipe that runs between them and yank them out. At least then I'll know how they work when I put them back together.

The rock door tool is used to push them in with the end of the handle. It should have a square shaped hole in end of it. Assuming the pins are loose, you push them in then UP in the vertical slot and then you let them spring back out in the upper part of the slot where they are supposed to stay put.

They are loose, but I'm not quite understanding how they work. You are saying push in, lift up, and then let them pop out again? And if I'm understanding right, then I don't try to push them into the top of that upside down L slot? And if this works the feeder housing should just sink right down? I guess I don't understand what that wedge is releasing in such a short movement. Is there anything that can get stuck that moving the wedge won't release? I wd40'd it good so the wedges move easy, I just don't understand what they are releasing. Also I don't have a header trailer to set it on, but I can block it up as high as need be. Right now I was going with about 8 of the ground . That ok? To much? Not enough? I appreciate as much help and advice as I can get before I just go total stupid on it.

YES !! push the pins IN and slide them UP into the tapered slot, then they can't come back OUT until you again push the pins back in to slide them down to latch the headers down, that's why those pins are tapered !!

In hind sight, the slot's aren't tapered, they are straight, it's the tapered pins that wedge into the slots AFTER you get them past the T opening at the bottom.

As stated above for removal,If your pins are worn or slots a bit egg shaped it can drive you nuts.If you have trouble, You can usually feel when you push the pins in that the resistance is gone.I have one that I always have to push in just a bit farther to unlook.

Push in, move up or down into the skinny part of the hole the lock has.

Repeat on the other side.

Its really about as simple as can be, so something unusual must be going on that it isnt working for you?

Paul

On my LII the pins would get dirt behind them till they wouldn't move. I would tap on the ends several times with the wrench to get the dirt to fall out. Then you push them in, up and back torwards the machine. There is a good stiff spring behind the pins. it took a fair amount of muscle to push the pins in far enough.

This tool was custom made for the job. Push in, lift up and turn it 90 degrees, let it come back out so it wedges in to the slot. I changed a head just the other day, had to hit the pins with a hammer first.

First off, do you have the door tool? If not, get it, pretty sure they still sell them new, but any salvage yard should be able to come up with one.

M L series is opposite of older ones, the hooks on the header have the slot on the bottom, therefore the wedge pins on combine are in the locked position at the top of the slot, and unlocked position when at the bottom.

Also, never rotate the pins, that is how you get the pins cocked in the spring can and ruin the end of the tube, and not engage the pins. you are using the square end of the door tool.

Basically all you do to release is start on the left side (harder to get to, do it first so spring tension is the least) smack the pin to loosen it (hammer, or flat end of door tool) then put the square hole end of the door tool handle over the pin, push it till the tool hits the feederhouse, then move it straight down to the bottom slot. release. Move to right side, repeat.

Put blocks under the header, at least 4 inch blocks. preferably add blocks so it sits higher in the front.

Make double sure couplers and hydraulics are unhooked, lower feederhouse. might have to wiggle back a little. header should disconnect and you are free to back away.

Pay special attention to the return elevator chute. if your guide rod and blocks are not 100%, good chance of the chute binding, then when you lift you wheck the chute and the elevator. only really an issue when unhooking and hooking up.

If header wont freely release, keep in mind its like a chinese finger trap. lots of force does nothing but break stuff. You simply will have to raise the feederhouse, set your safety stop, climb under and unbolt your hooks. hooks can bind if not shimmed to the machine they are going on. If not, they will wedge tight and not release.

To ensure the wedge pins operate as intended, make sure the slot is down so dirt doesnt collect. Make sure the pins are oriented so the wedge taper is on a horizontal plane. #1 rule, never twist them. shove straight in, move up or down, release. never twist.

There is a hook on the header you are unlocking. You can't see it till you back out. .you just want the front of the header blocked up. You will kick yourself when you see how easy it is.