1020 head is home

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member
10.5 hour round trip including lunch, loading and a short visit with the seller. Looks to be a nice unit. I had stopped and inspected a week ago on my way back from Chicago but it was getting late and it was in the shed...doesn't look like I missed much. But I bet I did!!! :)

I have to think those 3 wire HHC plugs that came with these units must have been poor quality. The fella who sold me the 1660 years ago said the one on his head went bad so he put a standard trailer harness on the combine and head. Same thing with this head...trailer harness and no plug. So matches my combine BUT...I am wondering if the guy who sold me the head and the guy who sold me the combine wired those trailer plugs just the same. I will have to check the schematics on both sides to see are they wired to match. Fella had some hardware he says are the brackets to lock it into rigid position. Are they right?

cvphoto21132.jpg
 
Any chance that could be hanging on the head somewhere?

Need to get a manual now. I have the serial number. Drove out there today and took a pic of the tag. Fella told me it was an early model...serial number 000768? Yeah, that sounds like an earlier model!
 
Without looking at the header, or a picture of it, I'm not absolutely sure, but I think there's a few links of chain there for flex operation, where the turnbuckle goes to lock it up. I suppose it could be left there somehow. As I recall there's a good picture of it in the manual.
 
The 1020's that I've been around are fairly famous for breaking the cutter bar right beside the wobble box.

You need to keep a close eye on the condition of the "A" shaped pivot arm under that end of the header. Look for weld cracks on the arm and also inspect the pivot bearings on the arm for any slop. Chances of breaking the cutter bar are slim if that arm is in good condition. I think the manual calls for grease on those bearings at 50 hours. I grease mine every morning.
 
I have had an 820 do that very thing. The bearing went bad and it caused the arm to stress the knife head. I welded mine back together and replaced the bearing. Not something I wanted to do but it worked out. So I am thinking that it is an issue with the "open" style of wobble linkage as opposed to the newer ones that are in oil. I'm told those last longer but I am betting the open ones are easier to catch going bad and repair. Just my 2/100 of a dollar.
 
Some of the later heads you just pin up the sickle end with a pin and quick clip. Don?t know the year, my 99 1020 is that way.
 
Did you get a manual with it? I have a manual here for the earlier 1020 headers it's yours if you want it email me if interested
 
Thanks tjv! Manual arrived today and is exactly what was needed. Very kind of you and much appreciated.
 

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