Lots of sucess with 750 Husky - now a battery question

Britcheflee · Nov 17, 2009

So, with advice from here I have the starter/gen reinstalled - connected up what wires I could and at first tried jumping it with remote battery - smoothly turned over the engine and it fired right up - I was not getting any charge from the smaller post at first until I increased rpm and now getting a good charge from it - showing positive charge at ammeter.

I am using a small 12 volt car battery - is this ok for this tractor? Or should I get a 12 volt garden tractor battery?

I was not able to get it to turn over by the switch - I think not only is the solenoid dead but the switch is corroded inside - the worst case scenario is that I put it all back together and use the battery with a jump wire to start it when I need - but I have a feeling that with new switch and solenoid I can get it to go.

Thanks,

Lee

Britcheflee · Nov 17, 2009

final question - I connected the long black wire to a small nut on the throttle plate as advised by someone - it had a small insulating washer on it so assuming that is the right place for it - cannot check until I get a new switch I think.

Once this is installed will I be able to stop the engine via the switch or will I still need to use the ground plate up against the spark plug?

Bob · Nov 17, 2009

The car battery is FINE. That's all I use in my garden tractors. (They're all big enough so a car battery fits with no problems.)

As the the "kill" wire, there should be a wire coming from the engine's ignition system points/coil to the insulated terminal where you hooked up the switch. If that connection is there AND you have the correct ignition switch it SHOULD "kill" with the ignition switch.

NOTE!!!!

Be SURE the ignition switch is the correct unit and does NOT EVER put battery voltage into the ignition system.

You engine has a flywheel magneto and makes it's own spark energy. Putting battery voltage into that system will let ALL the smoke out of the ignition system.

Trouble is, there are some look-alike garden tractor ignition switches that DO feed 12 Volts into the engine's ignition system.

JDemaris · Nov 17, 2009

You can shut off with either. The ground on the spark plug shorts out the high current charge coming out of the magneto. The small wire that attaches to the engine threaded post stops the magneto from making any spark at all.

Just make sure your key switch has an "M" terminal to hook that wire to. "M" is correct, and "IGN" is incorrect.

As to the generator, make sure you use a high-current switch since it needs it, unless you use a switch-operated relay instead.

You might want to download a free tech manual for your tractor. Just go to:

http://external_link/showthread.php?t=469

whizkidkyus · Nov 17, 2009

12 volts dc is 12 volts dc . Dosen't make a difference where it comes from as long as it's 12 volts dc and the amp requirements from the starter / charging unit and battery is all met so that the amp pull dosen't burn something up. You also have to devise a way to put the battery in the mower or mount it and to tightly attach the cables to the battery for a good connection.

Whizkidkyus

whizkidkyus · Nov 17, 2009

Also , besure to get the polarity correct meaning if it's a 12 volt neg. ground or positive ground. I've seen 12 vdc car batteries mounted on a platform behind the lawnmower
( hitch hole ) and used to start the motor.

Whizkidkyus

whizkidkyus · Nov 18, 2009

Also, make sure that your charging system can handle the amp pull of the battery. The higher the amperage of the battery and the deader it is, the higher the amperage pull from the battery on the charging system . One way around this is to install a fuse that is the maximum highest pull that your charging system can handle . Say if your charging system is a 50 amp maximum then install about a 45 amp guse so that it won't max your charging system out.

Whizkidkyus

Britcheflee · Nov 18, 2009

thank you - very useful information.

Kentb of SWMO · Nov 18, 2009

As has been said, 12 volts DC is 12 Volts DC. The ONLY time the size of the battery come into question is when it is TO SMALL to have the capacity to crank the engine. A small L/G battery will NOT start a OVER THE ROAD truck engine but the battery from a OVER THE ROAD truck will start the engine on your Bolen 750. Mounting this battery might be a PIA. The only time a battery is to big is when it will not fit the battery box. I have NEVER seen a positive ground on a S/G system. Also, you do not really need to run the S/G charge current through the ignition switch. Later alternator equipped L/G tractors do. There is already a High Current switch in the voltage regulator. Some may say you need to run the charging current through the switch for protection if the cut-out relay stick. You will know it sticks when you try to shut the engine down, and it continues to crank with the ignition switch in the OFF position. Run the wire from the BAT. Terminal on the voltage regulator directly to the positive side of the battery. NO need to run it through the ignition switch. You may want to run this wire through a amp meter.

Kent

El Toro · Nov 18, 2009

I use a car battery with side mount connections like those used on GM cars. That is so the battery terminals don't hit the tractor's hood.
I use Walmarts best battery. Its been there almost 8 years. Hal

JDemaris · Nov 18, 2009

Generally true, but not 100% true. A 12 volt starter is designed to operate a 9 - 10 volts, because that is what a 12 volt system drops to in most cases.

If you take a battery that is many times bigger then the system is designed for, cranking voltage increases. That is good until you get to a point that the starter cannot handle it. Most starters are overbuilt and it's not an issue. Some are not.
I've had direct-drive Delco starters in Chevy V8s that would break starter drives when huge batteries were used. I was a John Deere mechanic and used to bring home a lot of free huge batteries. At one time, I had 2000 amps of cold cranking power in my 1964 SS Chevelle, Even at zero degrees, cranking voltage was 11.5 volts and it continuously broke starter drives. Finally stuck a 700 CCA battery in and all was fine.

oldtanker · Nov 18, 2009

NAPA sells both the magneto and battery switches for tractors. They come in a bubble pack and will say on the pack what they are for. Be sure to get the Mag one for your application.

whizkidkyus · Nov 18, 2009

Britcheflee,

Hope the battery information was helpful. Here is more on batteries. The only time ( as someone else stated ) that a batterys size really comes into play is when the amperages is to small for your motors starter. If the battery is to small amperage wise for your motor ,then the starter will burn it up and if the batterys current ( amp ) draw from being flat or about dead is to great and it excedes your alternators output in amps then it will burn up your alternator. The actual physical size of the battery itself isn't really a big problem unless it's too big to fit in the battery box. I've seen that problem fixed by building a small platform onto the back of the lawnmower where the implement hookup hole is. As long as the cable size is the right size and length and the platform is properly supported then it won't hurt anything except the looks of it .

Whizkidkyus
Battery 101

whizkidkyus · Nov 18, 2009

Also, another thing about batteries that I'm sure that you probably already know. Make sure that the voltage is the same . Don't put a 6 volt battery in a 12 volt system or a 24 volt battery in a 12 volt system. Put only a 12 volt battery in a 12 volt system . In other words, match the batteries output voltage to the system voltage requirements. A 12 volt battery to a 12 volt system . Also, watch your batterys amp capacity , bigger is always better but don't get to carried away .

Whizkidkyus

Whizkidkyus.

Lots of sucess with 750 Husky - now a battery question

Britcheflee

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Britcheflee

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Bob

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JDemaris

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whizkidkyus

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Britcheflee

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Kentb of SWMO

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El Toro

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