Cub Cadet 1450 - front tires

dhermesc

Well-known Member
Did any manufacturer make the smooth implement style front tires that were used on the Quietline series when they came out? I ask because I looked at and bought a 1450 that has those tires on the front. My 1450 had the originals on the front yet when I bought it in 2002 but were worn to the cords with about 800 hours on it. The hour meter is unreadable at this time but I was surprised at how good these original(?) front tires looked on the one I saw yesterday.

This one has been parked for 5 years with no fuel. We poured in a cup of gas and jump started it with no issues. One of the relief valves on the top of the transmission has oil pouring out the hole - the reason why it was parked. Anything special to installing one of those - I have a parts 1250 sitting in my shop I was going to borrow the valve off it to drive this one onto the trailer. The other thing I noticed - the oil coming out the valve was brown hydraulic fluid - not Hytran.
 
These are the closest ones Ive found lately
Also, Id dump and replace the hyd. Oil with Hytran and replace the filter and check valve before running it again.
Tires
 
I have been faithfully replacing and filling my Cubs with Hytran - but I know the formulation has changed a lot since the 1970s when this thing was made. I have found claims that the Sundstrand hydro unit works equally well with HyGuard (John Deere) and Type F transmission fluid (Ford). Anyone else using something beside Hytran this in their Cubs?
 
I used to work on, buy, sell a lot of them. Most had type f in them. Worked fine. True of most hydra stats cub, jd, everything but Case.
 
Danfoss (the current name of what used to be Sundstrand after a series of mergers) publishes a whole booklet of acceptable fluids for their hydrostatic pumps and motors. You'd be surprised at what all is perfectly acceptable, even for their most modern, high-performance systems. Hydraulic oils, universal tractor fluid, engine oils of various viscosities, ATF, biodegradable oils, and the list goes on. Hydro units are actually much less picky about what oil they have in them than what most people believe them to be.
 
Drained the fluid - there was a LOT of dirt and deposits in the bottom of that thing I scraped and wiped it out. When was the last time you could buy a gasket for the inspection plate - that's what it had. The fact that it had yellow paint on it makes me wonder if it had ever been off. There was some other crud in there too - possibly his Lucas stop leak he admitted to putting in it. I filled a 706 with Hytran last year - good to see the prices went up - 2 gallon at Kan-Equip was $56 - even the Stens hydraulic filter was expensive. The relief valve immediately started leaking so it was swapped out after 30 seconds of running (rebuilt $62). Pulled the air cleaner off and cleaned the carb inside and out with carb cleaner. Put it back together with new air filter. New spark plug, had a used seat I bought from a local guy who salvages lawn mowers and made mounts for it (old IH Cub seat bolt patterns don't match anything) and had a nice seat to replace the rusted nasty original. Once I put it all back together that thing runs well - especially for not having started for over 2 years. Added several ounces of Sea Foam to the gas to clean up the inside of the carb and greased the deck and steering and mowed for a couple hours. I even replaced the tail lights with clearence marker lights from Wal-Mart.

The blades are like new and fairly sharp but rusty. The deck doesn't have near the rumble that my deck has with the worn and loose spindles. For about $400 (purchase price and repairs) I now have another beast of garden tractor.
 

I have had several IH hydros. Never bothered to remove inspection plate (top covre?).
Always just popped off the rear plate.I
Always a lot of goopy stuff in the diff.
 

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