Kubota T 1400 lawn tractor tires

Any idea where I can find 14-5.00-6 turf tires. I've tried all the Ebays and Amazons plus interweb sites.. A little Richard Rawlings there for you.. I find 15-6.00-6 tires but not 14's. Don't tell me I have to buy fromBota. I thought of tubes but they're not real smooth inside. Might chafe the tube.

Try your local tire store, a real tire store not one of the name brand stores. Or M E Miller on line.
Dave

I know sometimes the japanese do their own thing when it comes to tires. (Some tires for Honda Equipement are Honda parts only.)

If you had to, you can probably mount thd 15-600-6 tires on your wheels but they will be one inch wider and of course an inch taller. The height probably won't hurt much, but you will need to see over 1/2 clearance between the inside of your current tire and anything on the tractor axle. Othewise a wider tire will probably rub on it.

Seems like you you can buy 13-5.00 or 15-5.00 all day long but no 14-5.00. If they have a slow leak through the side wall due to age, you might consider a slime type product. The tires on my leaf machine trailer wouldn't hold air for a week due to dry rot, with slime in them they are good for the season. Been this way for several years now.

How long ago did You build your Leaf Machine? I built mine in about 1997 or '98. I pull it with my Cub Cadet model 72 which had a 10 hp Kohler in it back then, has a hopped-up 14 hp Kohler now with plenty of power. I run the blower with a freshened up 7 hp Kohler. I fabricated the chute that bolts to the mower deck discharge chute, and built the semi-mounted frame the engine & blower mount on, even built the swiveling caster wheel that holds the back of the frame up, but I bought the tire & wheel from Northern Hyd. I used to use an idler pulley to tighten the belt to run the impeller I built, but installed a spare Cub Cadet pto clutch onto the engine after a year or two, works much better. I built the blower housing out of 1/8th inch sheet steel welded together. I had our machine shop at work bore the 1 diameter hole thru the 5 diameter steel bar hub and pull a 1/8 keyway in the bore for me. Impeller spins on two self-alining face mount ball bearings on cast iron 4-bolt flanges that are greasable. The cart I welded the top part of the enclosure to is an EXACT TWIN to your cart, Dad got it at Menards 30 years ago.the steel sheet is slightly less than 1/8 the, enclosure is 32 inches wide by 42 inches long by 36 inches tall, most of front and a foot wide section down the top is aluminum expanded mesh from a TV satellite dish I scrapped, it let's dust out but keeps leaves and grass clippings in. I use 6 inch plastic corrugated drainage tile tube to connect the chute on the mower to the blower and connect the blower to the cart. Last time I used it I got 25 loads in a bit over 12 hours. And the loads are HEAVY, they pack in pretty tight! My new Zero-Turn has a MUCH better mower deck than anything IH ever put on a Cub Cadet, and I pick a windy fall day to mow the last time for the year, chew the leaves up and blow them into the wind.
If you dig back into the old post archives on IH Cub Cadet.Com my buddy posted pictures of the changes I made to my 38 mower deck, the blower itself, and the cart. I patterned it after a brand called Trac-Vac and a little bit of Agri-Fab. The frame the engine & blower are mounted to is semi-mounted to the rear axle of the tractor, the cart hooks to the back of the frame and turns as short as the tractor itself can turn, and the cart tracks perfectly in the same tracks as the rear tractor tires. Makes trimming around our trees & bushes a snap.
I found I had to fertilize the yard every year when I sucked up the leaves & clippings, now I use them as green manure SON works for SCAG Manufacturing, #1 builder of commercial zero-turn mowers, he sprayed broad leaf herbicide and put down 320# of Weed & Feed fertilizer for broad leaves last spring for the first time in about 12 years. I used to aerate with my home-made spike tooth aerator every fall, Think one section of rotary hoe. Haven't done that for a while either, getting too many big tree roots too close to the surface of the ground.

This is the 3rd different tractor this machine has been on in the 35 years since I built it. It started on a 446 case then went to an F-2000 Kubota, then here. It will probably be retired this fall as long as the Cyclone Rake that came with my Kubota BX25DLB works as expected.

Do not put slime in a small lawn equipment tire. The garbage is only good for about two years then it breaks down and corrodes the rims.

I charge $5.00 each if I must clean it off of your rims to install a new tire. And another $5.00 each if I have to flush it out of your tire to install a tube.

Put a tube in it if it is just dry rotted.

The ONE thing I didn't care for on mine, the leaves & clippings packed in so solid that I had to dig them out with a manure fork or corn rake, dumping the trailer really didn't help much. I almost built a cart with a live floor, a conveyor to move the BIG cube of stuff out of the trailer so I could load more. I bought a real lightly used Pronovost P503 walking tandem axle hyd dump trailer, 50 wide, 70 long and 18 high sides including the composite 5/4's x 6 sideboards on the frt & sides. I'd have added another 1-1/2 to 2 feet and a roof and used it behind my BIG Cub Cadet, 982 with 3-point and auxiliary Remotes, I've dumped hundreds of loads of branches, dirt, rock, etc. KING KUTTER used to make a very similar cart I saw in Northern Tool's catalog but I am really impressed with my Pronovost. I considered buying a bigger one to pull behind my 3/4 ton pickup or my FARMALL's.

You are letting them off real cheap. I have cleaned gallons of that crap out of tires. Best it does is
hide the holes.