Toro Timecutter ss4200 flywheel removal

dwragon

Member
I was given a Toro Timecutter ss4200 zero turn mower, because someone put diesel in the gas tank and ran it. I dont know if it backfired on the previous owner, but I know it backfired on me. I think it sheared or partially sheared the flywheel key. I have looked at the flywheel, and there are no bolt holes for removal. I dont want to drill the holes in case it throws the flywheel out of balance. It is not the Briggs engine, it is the one made in China. Does anyone know how to pull the flywheel, or is there a special puller for this?

This post was edited by dwragon on 11/26/2021 at 08:20 am.
 
maybe just loosen the nut, big screwdriver behind the flywheel and then smack the nut with a 2 lb hammer.
 
(quoted from post at 10:48:34 11/26/21) maybe just loosen the nut, big screwdriver behind the flywheel and then smack the nut with a 2 lb hammer.

Having a helping hand operate the hammer while you are prying up on the flywheel at two locations 180 apart makes it even easier.
 
I never tried it on an engine that big but I have very good luck pulling flywheels on smaller engines by removing the nut and washer, placing a deep well impact socket over the shaft and giving it a sharp rap with a big hammer as if you were driving the flywheel on. The flywheel then pops right off. A very experienced old time mechanic taught me that many years ago. Come to think of it, I'm probably older now than he was at the time. LOL
 
(quoted from post at 14:49:23 11/26/21) I never tried it on an engine that big but I have very good luck pulling flywheels on smaller engines by removing the nut and washer, placing a deep well impact socket over the shaft and giving it a sharp rap with a big hammer as if you were driving the flywheel on. The flywheel then pops right off. A very experienced old time mechanic taught me that many years ago. Come to think of it, I'm probably older now than he was at the time. LOL


I tried that, with two log splitting wedges, didnt work. :(
 
Mark-Ia has the right idea. back the flywheel nut off until its top side is flush with the end of the crank, pry upward on the flywheel,
hit it and it should pop loose. Start with something like a 'reasonable' blow. You can always work up to more agressive if it doesn't
work. You put the nut flush with the end of the crank so a hammer blow won't mar the end of the crank.

One thing to be aware of: It is possible to break the alternator magnets off the flywheel doing this. Most times it doesn't happen, but it
is a possibility.

I have never had to do this on one of those Chinese engines yet, but this procedure works on about everything else.
 
Go ahead and drill and tap the flywheel, just be careful to drill to the same depth and opposite each other. Then use or make a puller
something like this. A thick flat plate will work too.
cvphoto109174.png
 
Be sure to let us know what you find! Are you sure the key is sheared? After removing the nut and washer you should be able to see the
keyways. I think if you clean the fuel system well and put some fresh gas in it it might be all right. Most gas engines will run on diesel
after warmed up, but not very well.
 

I drained out the entire fuel system, then flushed it with new gas, changed the spark plug, which does fire when grounded, but no start, which is why i believe the key is sheared. On the top of the flywheel are 90 degree spaced divots, which is where I think puller bolt holes should have been, and where I will drill if I cant get it off. I can see the key, just cant tell if it is sheared.

Also didn't realize this was an antique lawn tractor forum when I posted, my apologies for that.
 
(quoted from post at 19:47:37 11/26/21) Go ahead and drill and tap the flywheel

Be mindful of the stator that may be behind that flywheel. A drill bit or tap could damage it.
 
I am not familiar with the exact mower or engine. Generally,I agree with the pull the flywheel nut and any washer and peer down from
the top at the key. It should be perfectly square to your vision. If the coil has a ground wire, disconnect it. Ensure that there is a 4-7
mil gap between the magnet when passing the coil and the coil ears...I used to use a piece of a large grocery sack.

Get some starting fluid and with the throttle fully open shoot some in the carb when trying to start.

If that doesn't work pull the cover off the valve covers and ensure the valves are functioning and there isn't a stuck valve as you
rotate the flywheel with the spark plug out. Both valves should have when fully seated in the combustion cycle, intake less than
exhaust....4 and 7 mils come to mind for numbers when you have none just like ignition gap.

I assume it has a blade attached, if not put a blade on it, part of the mass to carry the engine through full 4 cycles.

If all that works out, get a new coil. ebay has them for a song.
 

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