ktmrider203
New User
Just repaired the broken transmission on my 47 year old Master-Till by Parmi and thought would share some part numbers. The Master-Till is a mid-tine more or less knock off of what is today the Merry-Tiller Suburban sold by Mackissick. They have exploded diagrams in a PDF on theor website which is exactly how the Master-Till is made. The oil seals at the 1.25 OD tine shaft exits from the trans case are CR 12336. The 1 inch long open roller needle bearings ( one per side ) as well as the intermediate shaft needle bearings (2) are all readily available at Mcmaster Carr. The top shaft at the 10 inch pulley is bushed. If the tranny was run with oil all bushes and bearings probably Ok. The weakest link in the tranny are the actual case halves at the intermediate shaft a.ka. the 3 inch long 3/8 inch diameter shoulder bolt that runs through the frame rails and through the sleeve ( inner race) of the needle bearings. The holes in the case get hogged out as well as the frame holes to the point the intermediate gear rubs against the case and either locks up or wears a larger hole. Or both. A piece of 22 or 24 gauge steel cut in a 3 1/2 inch wide strip riveted at the margins across the tranny case at the same angle it coincides with the frame then drilled for the 3/8 inch bolt to come through will fix it . Rivet from inside out. Use JB weld under the sheet piece before steel riveting to seal it up and rivet while JB still wet. As the #50 drive chain and #30 intermediate to top shaft wears excess side to side play of the gears occurs. Using 1.25 inch id at big tiller shaft and 3/4 inch ID shim washers on each side of intermediate shaft fixes that. Also at mcmaster carr. The thin 3/4' shim washers like 0.09 inches will seat on the intermediate gear flange. Have to go all the way down to only frame rails and use a 4 inch -6 inch alignment tool when assembling case halves to hold/align shims in place with frame laying on its side. I used a tapered punch to line it all up then slid the 3/8 inch shoulder bolt all the way through. The Suburban 706-1654 tran gasket is close but used an empty 9mm pistol cartridge to punch holes where they needed to be and had to cut the gasket more or less at the midpoint and near the top to make its slightly larger diameter at one end fit . Used Permatex non hardening gasket seal on one side of case to hold gasket and a dab of red silicone sealant at the places where gasket was cut. Drilled out holes in frame to 1/2 inch so bronze , lipped bushings would fit. Get the ones with 5/8 inch OD lip and only 1/4 inch total length so they dont protrude past the frame rails on the inside . Had to file a little off on the inside. The riveted sheet metal , the shaft shims and the bronze bushed holes made it like new. Filled tranny with 90 weight oil before starting tiller . Tills great. By the way and old coffee can upside down with a 1.5 inch hole cut in the metal bottom and a couple 2x4 blocks with a 1 inch hole make a jig to hold the case on its side while doing repair and while sliding frame over the tranny. Gasket, shims and oil was $60 so a lot less than a new tiller.Maybe the Suburban tranny would slip right in . The master-Till frame has a 45-47mm gap so if the Suburban has that width it would fit . Center to center from tine shaft up to pulley shaft is 13 1/4 inches . Dont know that for Suburban tranny. #50 gear at tine shaft has 17 teeth, #30 intermediate gear has 36 teeth and top shaft has 11 teeth also #30 . Hope this helps someone . NOte : The holes in the tranny case are 3/8 and not drilled to 1/2 inch --the holes in the frame are drilled to 1/2 and bronze bushed.
