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Adjust Variator on J. Deere 212

D

DMartin9N-2N

Member
Good afternoon: I have forgotten what all I need to do to adjust and LUBE the variator on my model 212. Do I need to remove the fender pan for this job? (I already have the mower deck removed.) I will be applying a Graphite lube.
I read somewhere about a slot in frame near right rear wheel that will let me hold the idler pulley up with a screwdriver to keep the long secondary drive belt slack. Should I remove the right rear wheel for this step?
I am working on a concrete floor, pretty nice, but no air conditioning. I have a large roll-around floor jack, so lifting one end of the the Deere should be no problem.
BTW, this tractor has been used regularly to cut grass, so things are not rusty or falling apart.
Any experienced folks with advice, please let me know. Thanks much!!

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
Put your variable speed lever in the 5th notch. There is a plug on the right side below the variable speed handle; remove it, There will be a bolt with a 3/4 head on it. Start the engine and with a 3/4 socket loosen that bolt and pull your pedal up. Tighten the bolt. Should work then.
 
Good afternoon Mark-Ia: I have done the adjustment you describe several times over the years, but that is not where my question is.
I need to have both belts loose at the variator so I can check the center (moveable) flange to see it is ok, then apply graphite dry lube, then put all back to normal.
My questions are about whether I need to remove the fender pad and/or the right rear wheel. Thanks for your interest.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
No need to remove the fender deck. There is a notch in the frame in front of the right rear wheel that lets you stick a long socket
through to catch the end of the idler pulley and hold it up. Then use a C clamp to hold the clutch pedal down. That releases the
belts enough to allow for checking and cleaning the variator axle with brake cleaner or similar. If necessary, emery cloth can
chine it up. If you insist on using a lubricant, use dry graphite.

Then follow the adjustment process in the manual.
 
Good morning, Steve and all: Steve, your reply seems to be the most comprehensive, I can try your methods pretty easily, maybe this morning. Thanks to all who replied!

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
Good afternoon, all; Adding to my own post, I did follow Steve's instruction, got final drive belt off idler pulley so belt was slack, then I could check Variator center flange and lube it with graphite from spray can. Then put belt back under idler pulley.
NEXT step: I wanted to follow Variator instruction in my owner's manual, but can't find it..... Can Steve or someone post the wording from the Deere owner's manual after it says to disconnect spark plug wire. I do not feel that my work was exactly correct; I can drive the tractor but the Variator is still not quite right. I don't want to put my belts at risk by running it when something is mis-adjusted! Thanks much!

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

This post was edited by DMartin9N-2N on 08/20/2021 at 02:45 pm.
 
Mark-Ia's instructions are correct but with one little quirk that is also unclear in the manual.

You disconnect the spark plug, loosen the bolt that holds the variator assembly in
position vs the rest of the clutch-brake assembly, and crank the engine over until
the clutch pedal comes up as high as it will. Then you re-tighten that bolt, pressing
the wrench down toward the ground as you tighten it.

Then you put the spark plug wire back on so the tractor will start for you.
 
Good evening, Steve and all: Tomorrow afternoon will be my first chance to try procedure. I should post something late tomorrow evening (Sat 8-21-21), Thanks.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
Good evening again, it is now Saturday evening, 8-21-21. I worked on the variator and I now have it adjusted to my liking.
I am NOT an expert on it, but I did find out that if I got to the point of pushing down and tightening the bolt below the variator control handle, it seems I could push the bolt down too far. In any event, If I stepped on the clutch (left pedal), and in so doing I could make the idler pulley hit the bottom of the fender pan, that turns out to be an incorrect setting. The forward positions of the variator handle would not work with this setting. I am fairly sure that when I readjusted the Push-Down bolt, and only pushed it down a little ways, it worked better, and the idler pulley quit hitting the fender pan. I tested the tractor by pulling my small garden trailer around the yard, I am now a happy camper!
Thanks for the suggestions, folks!

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
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