Ingersoll 224 start stop difficulty Question

would like direction and assistance
Working on an Ingersoll 224 lawn tractor with 14 hp., Kolar; since wiring was no good; totally rewired with new wire 12 G. >> Engine starts and runs >>> yet when I shut off key switch engine keeps running. To stop engine have to pull high tension wire off plug. As far as I understand I have connected all wires to proper places. Gone over the wiring schematic several times, even enlarged it to be as certain as I can of placing of wires. [ there is one item that I see on the diagram line from the 4th., post under the voltage relay to the battery terminal of the solenoid > looks like a fuse holder or connector yet might be a one way diode << cant tell from diagram]
Could anyone who has further information on these lawn tractors give me guidance? So that when I turn the key to the of position the engine will shut off.
Thank you.
Wm.
 
Without knowing the exact sn of your tractor I would guess the coil is getting power from somewhere when the key is off. The coil is powered from the I terminal of the switch. No other wires should connect there. If you can post the sn, I can refer to the exact diagram.
Most critical thing on these is the switch. Do you have a OEM switch or an afermarket? Case/Ingersoll is different than most universal switches.
 
Without knowing the exact sn of your tractor I would guess the coil is getting power from somewhere when the key is off. The coil is powered from the I terminal of the switch. No other wires should connect there. If you can post the sn, I can refer to the exact diagram.
Most critical thing on these is the switch. Do you have a OEM switch or an afermarket? Case/Ingersoll is different than most universal switches.
I think the thing you see on the diagram is the fuse as to my knowledge they never used a diode.
 
Yep, fuseholder.

Do you have the Ammeter system or the charge light system?

1. There are MANY variations of LGT ignition switches that LOOK very similar but have different terminal and switching variations. Are you SURE you have the exact, correct switch?

2. If you have the "charge light" setup and have a lamp installed that draws too much current it could power the ignition system and cause it to act like what you are experiencing.
 
If your Kohler engine has a starter generator on it, and I am thinking it does since in your other post you metion the 'bat' terminal, it sounds like you have a connection between that 'BAT' terminal and the ignition coil that is not disconnected when you turn the switch off. If that is the case, the generator will continue to feed the coil and the engine will continue to run.

I am not familiar with Ingersoll products, but in most cases that I can think of, the 'BAT' Terminal on the regulator is connected to the Ammeter and the power to the ignition switch is connected to the 'L' terminal on the regulator. 'L' means 'LOAD', not 'lights. (But the 'LOAD' can include the lights as well as the igntion.)
 
Speaking of key switch; My thought is that it is an after market switch. Having gone over the wiring diagram , even with a meter from point to point; still confused since all appear to be in the correct position and switch shuts off ; according to meter when key is in off position. Coming off the post 4 from under the V/R, the line progresses from here to the "A" post on the solenoid and also the light/ amp meter and the "I" side of the switch. According to the drawing the line from the post 4 has two lines off it one directly to the light / amp meter and switch and one to the "A" side of the solenoid. [ all I did was to connect from the post 4 to the "A" side of the solenoid and on the the light/ amp meter the to the "I" side of the switch] The "A" post goes to the "A" terminal of the starter / Generator. The battery side of the switch goes directly to the "L" side of the V/R. The "B" post of the V/R goes directly to the "B" side of the solenoid and the battery. The "S" post on the key switch goes to the "S post on the solenoid then on through the second post on the solenoid to the ground [ solenoid is an isolated type not grounded through the body.] Post "F" of the V/R goes directly to the starter / gen. I have taken the lights off the a/c post of the switch.
>>> THIS TRACTOR IS 224 Ingersoll Case <<<<
 
Since you have not posted the serial number of your tractor, the best way to answer your questions is go to " https://manuals.casecoltingersoll.com/PartsManuals/Case%20220,%20222,%20224,%20444%20Parts%20Manual%20A1375_watermarked.pdf " . Pages 59/63 cover the wiring with serial numbers, find the serial number of your tractor and look at the info. The diagrams are simple lines to each part. The only other thing is , the key switch may be defective. Hope this will help..
 
(quoted from post at 16:03:20 03/07/21) Speaking of key switch; My thought is that it is an after market switch. Having gone over the wiring diagram , even with a meter from point to point; still confused since all appear to be in the correct position and switch shuts off ; according to meter when key is in off position.[color=red:e59d78b4b5] Coming off the post 4 from under the V/R,[/color:e59d78b4b5] the line progresses from here to the "A" post on the solenoid and also the light/ amp meter and the "I" side of the switch. According to the drawing the line from the post 4 has two lines off it one directly to the light / amp meter and switch and one to the "A" side of the solenoid. [ all I did was to connect from the post 4 to the "A" side of the solenoid and on the the light/ amp meter the to the "I" side of the switch] The "A" post goes to the "A" terminal of the starter / Generator. The battery side of the switch goes directly to the "L" side of the V/R. The "B" post of the V/R goes directly to the "B" side of the solenoid and the battery. The "S" post on the key switch goes to the "S post on the solenoid then on through the second post on the solenoid to the ground [ solenoid is an isolated type not grounded through the body.] Post "F" of the V/R goes directly to the starter / gen. I have taken the lights off the a/c post of the switch.
&gt;&gt;&gt; [color=red:e59d78b4b5]THIS TRACTOR IS 224 Ingersoll[/color:e59d78b4b5] Case &lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

The red parts above are confusing. The description of the regulator seems to point to a very early Case, as none of the Ingersoll badged tractors used the mechanical regulator. That is why the sn is so important when searching for the correct diagram. Even makes a difference if it has an ammeter or charge light.

If it is a mechanical regulator I think there is a possiblility that a sticking cutout relay in the regulator may power the ignition when the key is off also. At least it looks that way on one of the diagrams. Not sure if that is what you have.

Your suspicion of an aftermarket switch may well be the real issue. They are a often replace item and I usually start any Case or Ingersoll rework with a new one. I think I've posted this before, but my go to for Case or Ingersoll parts is salempwr.com. They have all the parts manuals on the site, fair prices, quick shipping and a great source of tech info if needed. No interest in the business, just a customer.

But, you will need the sn to find the correct manual on that, or any other, site
 

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If you have an Ammeter system as shown in the first drawing the ignition coil is the ONLY thing connected to the "I" terminal on the ignition switch so there's NOTHING besides a "bad" ignition switch that would be causing the engine to keep running with the switch "off".

If a generator indicator lamp is used (as in the second drawing) using a lamp with a "too high" current draw COULD cause the engine to continue to have spark and run with the switch "off" AND the generator charging.
 

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