New drive shaft for the CC 108

Greenfrog

Member
Holes wobbled out in the end of the shaft next to tranny, and I bet the shaft is worn where the throw out bearing slides, teaser spring, etc.
what type of shaft material should I use: cold rolled, hot rolled, shaft stock from a hardware store, big box, TSC?
Educate me here.
Also, the stub shaft sticking out from the transmission, and the coupling, have wallowed out holes. How might I repair these? (Weld shut, redrill? )
Will any of that Liquid metal, epoxy stuff, work?
 
The last two of my Cub Cadets that needed a new drive shaft, I made them from a used steering shaft from a Junk MTD or Troybilt. I work in a Lawn Equipment repair shop so they are plentiful.

It was 5/8 dia., pretty straight and stiffer than what I could easily buy locally.

Keep in mind that the gear formed on the MTD shaft is hardened. It you need to cut or drill within 2 inches or so of it, you will have to heat it red hot to allow it to loose some of its hardness.

As far as the pin holes in the mating parts, I don't know what to tell you. I recall that on one flange I drilled and tapped setscrew holes 90 degrees from the pin hole and put setscrews in so it wouldn't wobble on the shaft.
 
(quoted from post at 21:00:04 03/03/21) Holes wobbled out in the end of the shaft next to tranny, and I bet the shaft is worn where the throw out bearing slides, teaser spring, etc.
what type of shaft material should I use: cold rolled, hot rolled, shaft stock from a hardware store, big box, TSC?
Educate me here.
Also, the stub shaft sticking out from the transmission, and the coupling, have wallowed out holes. How might I repair these? (Weld shut, redrill? )
Will any of that Liquid metal, epoxy stuff, work?
'm pretty sure those are just normal cold rolled steel. Something like 12L14, 12L15, etc. What we used to call Ledloy.
 
DO a search for MIDWEST SUPER CUB, WELTON, IOWA. They stock driveshafts made from pre-hardened 4140 alloy steel. I always thought a steel created by LaSalle Metals called STRESS-PROOF would have been a much better driveshaft material for a Cub Cadet. It's a severly cold drawn 11L44 steel. I had a piece of 5/8" Stress Proof ready to make my new driveshaft and called Midwest and ordered one from Him.
There should be TWO spirol roll pins in each driving position of those driveshafts. There IS two pins into the clutch plates, The stub shaft of the reduction gear is hardened, but the back end of the driveshaft needs two plus a longer coupler with two pins. It wouldn't last forever, but longer than OEM. The driveshaft on my CC #72 I ran a 10 hp engine in for 20 years I could slide a 5/16" bolt thru the back hole, and a 3/8" nearly fit.
Look at Super Cub's website, he makes some excellant stuff. I have a freind who bought a stroker kit from him for a 2 cylinder engine, he figures it's making around 40+ hp.
 
I have used O1 tool steel from McMaster Carr. The left over is handy and can be easily heat treated.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top