jd 214 repower

stretch5881

New User
Howdy, I have acquired a JD 214 that has been repowered with a later style engine. Points to mag. Runs great, but when I turn the switch off, the engine remains running until the carb runs out of fuel. It has an electric fuel pump. Can I assume that I need to change to a later style ignition switch to accommodate the mag kill wire?
cvphoto50543.jpg
 
Was this running and stopping properly for the PO?
A wire to ground the coils might have fallen of in transport.

If you need to fix something, there are choices.
You could keep your wiring harness and ignition switch
and use a relay to turn the ignition on and off.
 
The OEM engine would have been a Kohler K321 14 hp most likely with battery ignition if that's the case and the key switch was not changed it will not stop the replacement with a mag if it has the original switch be very care full to not connect the "I" terminal to the mags as it will blow them in less than a second. So the choices are replace the ignition key switch with one that is for a magneto or install an on/off switch for the ignition but first check as the other posted said that a wire has not become disconnected
 
The orinal Kohler K series it came with did not need a ground to kill the ignition. So there is no circuit to ground the ignition on the chassis.

What I would suggest is to use a 5 pole relay. wire the activating circuit in parallel with the fuel solenoid on the engine's carburetor and use the operating contacts so that with the ignition switch on, the ground circuit is not completed, or 'open' but with the switch turned off the relay contacts automatically close and short the ignition to ground.
 
(quoted from post at 08:57:41 07/16/20) The orinal Kohler K series it came with did not need a ground to kill the ignition. So there is no circuit to ground the ignition on the chassis.

What I would suggest is to use a 5 pole relay. wire the activating circuit in parallel with the fuel solenoid on the engine's carburetor and use the operating contacts so that with the ignition switch on, the ground circuit is not completed, or 'open' but with the switch turned off the relay contacts automatically close and short the ignition to ground.
Man that's a lot of work when all is needed is to change the ignition switch from a battery one to a magneto one
 
He is going to have to change some wiring to work with the ignition on this engine. There is no way around that, Unless the kill circuit for
the Kohler Command engine is already wired into the chassis harness and all you have to do is give him the correct part number of the switch
he needs.
 
The PO did the resto on the tractor. The ignition switch is still the original 4 pole. I kinda figured that I needed the 5 pole to make it correct. That way the kill wire would go to the M spade. I do have relay kits here if I decide to go that route.
Thanks guys.
 
He is going to have to change some wiring to work with the ignition on this engine. There is no way around that, Unless the kill circuit for
the Kohler Command engine is already wired into the chassis harness and all you have to do is give him the correct part number of the switch
he needs.

The way I recommend, adding a relay to kill the ignition, changes nothing on the mower chassis and all the chassis electrical can remain
undisturbed (Unless it was changed already) and later techs. can diagnose any problems using the original wiring schematic.
 
(quoted from post at 11:05:54 07/16/20)
(quoted from post at 08:57:41 07/16/20) The orinal Kohler K series it came with did not need a ground to kill the ignition. So there is no circuit to ground the ignition on the chassis.

What I would suggest is to use a 5 pole relay. wire the activating circuit in parallel with the fuel solenoid on the engine's carburetor and use the operating contacts so that with the ignition switch on, the ground circuit is not completed, or 'open' but with the switch turned off the relay contacts automatically close and short the ignition to ground.
Man that's a lot of work when all is needed is to change the ignition switch from a battery one to a magneto one

If there's any interest in keeping the seat switch and PTO safety switches functional adding a little "ice cube relay" is by far the "easy way out", IMHO.
 

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