Case 220 starting issue

Hello Friends!


I am having an issue with starting case 220 (10hp engine swapped for a 14 hp engine), it only starts when it has been jumped started.

Before when I turned the key, no noise from the solenoid. I replaced it with one off my parts case 220, and it turned over for a second then stopped.

I tried again an it did about 1 and 1/4 turn then stopped abruptly and the solenoid started clicking. After waiting 5 seconds it turned 1/4 then stopped abruptly and the solenoid started clicking. After waiting 30 seconds it turned over 1 time then it started to groan like the battery was dead, and the solenoid started clicking again.

I came back 10 minutes later and it turned over and it turned over once. After it started clicking, I pulled the spark plug and it turned over 4 times. (pressure issue)?

Any help would be appreciated!
:D
 
how new engine is this,sounds like compression release issue. turn engine backwards by hand as far as can easy then try start it. also check the valve adjustment
 
(quoted from post at 10:13:38 04/02/20) bad starter connections , loose belt , bad battery
battery too small ? 400 cranking amps


Hello Friends! Thank you all very much for your time!

After tightening the belt I used a multi meter and discovered that the battery had a charge of 11.56 volts and when I turned the key starter ignition, it dropped to 4.53 volts, a significant draw on the battery!

I also discovered the the CCA (cold crank amps) that was written on the battery was only 300! It is odd because it did start a year ago with no issues (over 10 times in the summer). Maybe the colder MI weather (50 degrees) and an even colder winter caused the battery to zap? My previous rusted solenoid may have also drained the battery (discovered on underside when removed).

I also checked the solenoid, and battery cables and there was no draw when I put my multi-meter to 10A.
 
(quoted from post at 22:13:07 04/02/20)
(quoted from post at 10:13:38 04/02/20) bad starter connections , loose belt , bad battery
battery too small ? 400 cranking amps


Hello Friends! Thank you all very much for your time!

After tightening the belt I used a multi meter and discovered that the battery had a charge of 11.56 volts and when I turned the key starter ignition, it dropped to 4.53 volts, a significant draw on the battery!

I also discovered the the CCA (cold crank amps) that was written on the battery was only 300! It is odd because it did start a year ago with no issues (over 10 times in the summer). Maybe the colder MI weather (50 degrees) and an even colder winter caused the battery to zap? My previous rusted solenoid may have also drained the battery (discovered on underside when removed).

I also checked the solenoid, and battery cables and there was no draw when I put my multi-meter to 10A.

I was following along with you 'til you wrote: "I also checked the solenoid, and battery cables and there was no draw when I put my multi-meter to 10A". NOT sure what you were doing there!
 

Hello Friend!


I have a multi-meter very similar to the attached pic and I set it to 10 Amps and received a 0.00 for amps. I detached the negative wire from the negative terminal on the battery and I used the two probes (red and black) to cross the negative ground cable to the negative side of the battery to ensure there was no drain, similar to this gentleman (at 4:55 in the video)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0

To ensure there was no discharge at the solenoid, I put the two probes on the the largest studs and there was no battery discharge.

mvphoto51787.jpg


Just between us in the chat, this is my first time using a multi-meter, they are really handy! :wink:
 
Assuming you are measuring voltage directly from the battery posts, those numbers indicate a battery in need of charging, or probably a bad one.
 

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