Cub Cadet LT1046 drive belt coming off

Davo59

New User
Hi AZ,
Ive been checking forums and it appears lot of users have a problem with the issue of the drive belt coming off when engaging the PTO switch.
For yeas Ive been arguing with my dealer about this issue. Every replacement belt is always too long and comes off once you put it lower than position 3 ion the shift selector.
Its never run right since I had to change the original belt.
Frustrated by the ealers comments, I went to the internet, found parts supplier interstate and from the parts manual, ordered 2 new belts.
To my surprise,these too, were too long or when on, didnt have enough tension. Baffled by this development, Ive gone back and studied the owners manual and to my surprise, the deck is missing one wheel that the belt runs around. With this wheel missing, by the drawing of the deck,it would leave the belt too long or losser than it should be.
Can anybody help with this fault or direct me to getting the right belt. The wheel missing is the one closest to the LH blade spindle. Also the tension bar has only 1 piece.
My LT1046 was purchased in 2008.
 
I agree with MSM. You probably need the other wheel (pulley) on the deck, then the belt you have will have the correct tension.

A better question is why your machine didn't have it and got along so well without it?

Engage the PTO at wide open throttle. The belt tends to whip like a snake when getting up to speed and you minimize that if you are
running the engine at full throttle.

One other thing: that number on the hood LT1046 was used on more than one different machine. At least they had minor differences between
them and they have different parts lists. When looking up parts, always use the long number (That number probably starts with 13 or 13A
on your tractor) to be sure you are looking on the correct parts list for that model. Some models of CC had at least 3 different possible
decks, depending if they were sold at a Dealer, or 'big box store.'.
 
The deck on those tractors are about as stupid of a design that was ever built.

The two ider pulleys fight against each other and once they get a little wear on them. You cannot keep a belt on one when the deck is lowered. The length of belt doesnt matter nor does the PTO have anything to do with it.

The best fix I have found for them is to remove the deck.
Remove the springs from the idler pulleys.
Move the right (discharge side) idler pulley back as far as you can without it making contact with the belt as it runs from one spindle to the other. Tack weld it in place.
Remove the single bolt that holds the idlers to the deck.
Remove the top idler and weld the bottom one in place where it cant move.
Reinstall the top idler. Replace the spring with a stronger one.
Reinstall the deck.

I forget what belt length will be needed. But it can be measured by routing a 1/4" rope around the pulleys and instead of around the idler. Go across the center of it.
Once measured. Try one belt about 1" longer than the measurement. Once you find the right belt. You will be you will only be putting it back on once or twice a year instead of everytime you lower the deck while mowing.



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