Need an Echo trimmer technition

Butch(OH)

Well-known Member
I don't get baffled easily on small
engines so my tail is between my legs
here. I have an Echo SRM225 trimmer in
the shop that was running and died while
being used. It had no spark. Ordered a
new Echo coil, bolted it on and had
good spark but would not fire, not even
pop, yes it has fuel, squirted some in
carburetor, and still no fire, not even a
pop. Plug was wet, getting fuel OK?. Took
the plug out and the magnets are passing
the coil after TDC, this is'nt right.
Checked timing with a light and spark is
occurring 90 degrees late. See picture in
next post. Pulled flywheel expecting a
sheared key but is OK and I see no way
that the flywheel can move on the hub.
Anyone care to chime in with an answer to
this?
 
On with the Echo. When the piston is at TDC the key slot is straight up, which I belive is how it should be? Picture shows flywheel. Middle white mark is TDC, left white mark is approximately where spark should occur according to the service manual. The far right mark is where spark is occurring as checked with a timing light. About 90 degrees late.

cvphoto24795.jpg
 
Another pic of the flywheel. I see no way that things could have moved and changed the relationship of skyway to the magnets but maybe I am missing something???
cvphoto24796.jpg
 
Had something crazy like this a couple of years ago with a Mc Culloch 605 chainsaw. A repair shop friend of mine gave me a spotless clean saw that somebody just didn't want repaied because the repair shop guys couldn't get it running an were ready to start throwing parts at it. Do you know where this is leading? I have a bunch of these 600 series saws and have a bunch of spare parts. Just as you describe having spark problems....change the flywheel. The aluminum flywheel has a little steel hub cast into it. That little hub was just defective enough to turn 1/4 turn inside of the flywheel. Ran perfectly after another flywheel. If you get any spark at all with the plug out yet it will not run....bet ya it is the flywheel .Give it a try.
 
I am supposed to be an Echo technician.

I am thinking we saw this late ignition problem on some other make saw a while back and another new coil fixed it.

But some other things to check first:

1. You say the key is o.k. in the flywheel. I can't see it in the photo. What is the relationship of the keyway in the crank to the piston. I am thinking it should be at TDC. I am thinking the crank may be built up of parts and pressed together, so a twisted crank end would then be possible.

2. What sparkplug are you running? I have never seen a non-resistor plug problem on an Echo, but a non-resistor plug can really screw up the running of some Husqvarna trimmers. On Husqvarnas, they will start hard and backfire every 15-20 seconds. The ignition module needs the resistor to deliver the spark at the proper time.
Long story short, if it doesn't have a NGK BPMR8Y plug in it, try one.
 
When at TDC the key is parallel with the bore, straight up. The pictures are poor but the key is intact and I see no way that the plastic outer portian of the flywheel can slip around the metal center?? Guess I will try another coil. Thanks
 
I had that happen on a 610 Mac so I know you are right about that. My pictures are poor quality but I cannot see a way for the outer portian of this flywheel to move on the hub without being destroyed in the process. That being said flywheels are cheap on EBay, may give that a try. Thanks.
 
Yes lots of plastic including the outer portian of the flywheel. New coil looks like old one.
Thanks
 

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