Montgomery ward 16

Vogey

New User
Talked a big game, was able to convince my wife we absolutely needed a lawn tractor not a riding lawn mower. That these 10-20 year old Murray's n craftsmans are throw away tools. That the only sensible thing to do is spend $200 on a 40 plus year old beast (please help there was a runnin mower 8 blocks away for $100) it's been sitting quit awhile, controls are stiff, the blades are frozen up it has compression. I can clean the carb. Only problem is no spark. I have to get the cover off. But there is a shaft running from engine to rear end. Can I just unbolt that from the engine n move it to the side to get cover off. I've read a couple ways to fix spark. Wire up a coil too points and the battery or take a coil off a newer single cyl Briggs flip it backwards and by pass points all together
 
If you have already bought the tractor then its to spend the money to get it working, as for the spark problem convert it to battery ignition (install a auto coil ) it is the simplest easiest way to go and it dependable, removing the engine from that tractor is a major job the oil pan is part of the front axle assembly and getting at the mag coil requires removing the flywheel shroud. Finding deck parts is going to be a challenge also these tractors have a 90 degree gearbox can have problems and a variable drive pulley set just about always worn out. I can assure you that it will cost closer to $30 to $500 to get it running and mowing my advise find another GT that was built by the 1000's Simplicity's Sears Suburbans John Deere's etc I have owned and gotten several MW tractor going after all the work its not worth it
 
I've already bought the tractor, I've got a auto coil to wire up, how do I identify the wires for points without taking off the shroud?
 
The coming from the shroud going to the points is not needed, mount the coil on the engine run a wire from the - post of the coil to the points, the coils + post has a wire going to a switch and then to 12 vdc the switch is the new ignition switch, connect a spark plug wire to the coil tower post and to the spark plug. Check that the points are making good contact if that's good it is good to go
 
I forgot to say disconnect both wires at the points one wire is for the coil and other one is the original ignition switch wire neither is needed or used
 
Yes that's what I want to do. Can I complete this without having to remove the shroud? Were are the points?
 
I have little doubt I'll be getting into the carb eventually. I did move a pointy brass screw with a spring in bottom of the carb without counting how many turns out it was. Were should it be at? And thank you!! I know exactly what box you mean!!!!
 
Are the spindles on the deck rebuildable? Can I replace the bearings? Any one have the part number handy?
 
Hi, for the carb click the link in post that is as good as it gets for the flo-jet crabs (starting point is 1.5 turns out) I think the spindles will be rebuildable but you will need a press to get them apart the bearings will have numbers on them
 
What model is this machine? Does the engine have a gear starter or is it a starter / generator, is it gear shift or a hydro
 
As far as I know it's a Montgomery ward "16" 42" center discharge deck. It is hydrostatic drive.
 
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(reply to post at 08:53:27 05/18/19)
Hi, the hydro is good by the way Gilson built those tractor for MW and the hydro is a very good 7unit, another plus is it has a gear starter, I have no experience with the rear discharge deck. The B&S 32xxx model engine is a horse good engine and really likes gas,
this is my email gary.behrens at gmail.com send me your e mail and I'll send you some manuals
 
Success eludes me for want of 1 sheet.of sand paper (even scoured the wifes drawer for a nail file) got er in the garage on some car ramps and Jack stands. Pulled cover off the points connected the one wire comin off the points to - side.of accel super coil then ran straight positive to + side of coil left plug out and spun it over, nothing (coil is good 100%)
 
With the points cover off crank the engine over look to see if the points are moving / opening and closing if so then with the points closed / touching slip a piece of paper some use a dollar bill between the points and slip to clean them, next with the points closed take the positive wire and touch it to the neg coil post see if there it spark when touching if so the points are making good contact if no spark they will need better cleaning, double checking there is only one wire connected to the points /that being the - coil wire
 
I did crank it over and watch the points they do move. Didnt try the dollar bill trick fig just grab some sand paper
 
Check the auto coil you have that it is a 12 volt coil no resister required or if it says resistor required that you have the correct resistor wired in series with this
coil as if you don't you will burn up the points and condenser in a short time.
 
Got it fired up, it moves forward for sure. Now that I've seen it run I can tackle the rest of it. All 3 of my blades are locked up right. From what I can see. If u know what your doing the deck should come off fairly easy. I unfortunately don't have a clue were to start. Working out a deal to get the other 3 tractors. Generator and the big n lil snowblower and he has 2 decks both are 3 blade decks but they are side discharge and not center. From what I can see of the pics the mounts look the same. I can get a deck for $80 anyone rebuild a blade spindle lately? What's a set of bearings run
 
Good to hear you got it running and driving, hopefully you'll get what you need to get a deck going with the parts decks etc
 
Driving might be a stretch at this.point. I have front up on Jack stands and rear tires sitting on car ramps. As I was cranking it over it started crawling forward n I adjusted the hydro more to n and it stayed put
 
Hi LOL you put a smile on my face BTDT when working on hydro tractors anyway your making forward progress, that MW / Gilson is a good tough tractor
 
Aaaah got all threw blades spinning freely, but ran out of grease with 1 blade to go (and the chassis) looks like the idle wheel that puts tension on the blade belt is in need of replacing I has a rust hole on bottom half about n inch long. And it spins rougher then the blades. The nurse looks extra rusty been spraying it with pb blaste n letting soak. Guessin I'll be replacing that as a whole. Movin back to the engine, there is a fuse right above the starter has a red wire coming out of the fuse and white wire goes in just above that. The red wire corroded and broke outta the fuse holder witch is just spinning and not coming apart. It runs without this, do I need it ? What is it for, can I just put an inline fuse from red 2 white wires?
 
So it would be in my best interest to try and get the fuse holder apart to fix the wire that's broken off
 
Yes, but if it breaks or the diode is bad a replacement 276-1661 diode can be installed inline the fuse is a 7.5 amp but a 10 amp is fine
 
It looks like I'll have to pull the motor to get shroud off to get fuse and fuse holder out. I'm not lookin to do this b4 next winter (want to pull motor and rebuild it, see if I can resist the urge to make more power.... ) I was lookin at the p.t.o on front, can I just mount a small alternator and run it off p.t.o?
 
Iwon't mess around with installing an alternator just put a battery charger on the battery when it needs it or install a diode in the other wire to charge the battery and forget the lights for now
 

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