kohler aqs341 motor

Clean/replace crankcase vent on the valve adjust chamber,then check valve guides and/or ring wear.
 
As Sarge mentioned, check the crankcase vent valve. Often find them installed incorrectly or broken/clogged. If that's not it, check the dipstick tube, if it doesn't seal well the crankcase will become pressurized and it should be a vacuum. If the tube seems ok, I'd recommend doing a crankcase vacuum test. Hard to do a compression test with the compression release on the K series.
 
Another thing the other guys didn't mention. Is there any gasoline in the oil?. That is what I see putting oil in the breather of the newer engines. And its caused by either a leaky carburetor needle valve or a leak at the fuel pump if there is one on the engine.

What viscosity is the oil you are running? These were built when 30 wt. was king and they don't really like the lighter oils.
 
(quoted from post at 14:36:57 02/05/19) What is the cause of oil in the air cleaner. Filter is new.

You can download the factory service manual for FREE (in .pdf format) at the link below.

Once you've downloaded it, look at .pdf pages 22 and 23, "Crankcase vacuum" with diagnosis chart, and at pages 133 and 134.
 
I got this jd lawn tractor because it had a tiller and hydrolic lift. It was not running but after cleaning the carb it started and ran. I did check and clean the valve vent. Going by the amount of blue smoke I think it needs new rings. I will check all of your ideas. Thanks for your help.
 
(quoted from post at 22:44:47 02/05/19)
(quoted from post at 14:36:57 02/05/19) What is the cause of oil in the air cleaner. Filter is new.

You can download the factory service manual for FREE (in .pdf format) at the link below.

Once you've downloaded it, look at .pdf pages 22 and 23, "Crankcase vacuum" with diagnosis chart, and at pages 133 and 134.

Another try with the link to the manual...

http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf
 

I have a K341 (NOT an AQS version) that is tired beyond belief. I have had the head off of this engine 2x within the last 5 operating hours. The 1st time, I saw that the top of the piston is eaten away, especially on the valve side of the cylinder/ bad enough that I can see 1/2 of the top ring. and I noticed a layer of fresh oil on top of the piston. and the exhaust valve had a ton of stem to guide clearance, stem was necked down.
A couple of operating hours later, I pulled the head again/ and though I know better, I put a new valve in, thinking that some of that oil might have come from the valve guide. Didn't cost me much but a 2nd head gasket and a little time.

Since I have had this machine, it has always started hard, and popped, backfired and farted before it would take off and run, mainly when below freezing outside, have used this tractor as a snow plow and a yard tug since I got it, starts much easier when engine is warm -- or engine is cold but is warm outside.
It smokes black n heavy when it 1st starts, then clears up. I attribute that to having to flood the snot out of it to get enough gas in the cylinder to dilute the oil that is getting into the combustion chamber. surprisingly once it gets going it sounds pretty good without smoke.
I had an identical engine from a parts tractor that had burnt, cleaned it all up, regasketed everything, gave it a good look over, blasted and painted the tinwork, anxious to see how THIS long block runs...... the old one was always coated with oil, no matter how often I power washed it. I have a feeling that your engine is similarly worn out.
Plans are to dismantle the tired engine and take it to the machine shop snd rebuild it as well.....
 

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