John Deere !90LT mower starting issuees

I have a LT 190 mower that sometimes when you turn the key it just clicks If I Jump it it turns right over and starts. Then for a period of time it will stsrt but it seems like though when I turn the key it is delayed in starting to turn over to start. I took it to a shop and they told me it was fixed but still does the same thing. I am pretty good at trouble shooting but not able to figure this one out. Any suggestions
 
A problem that does not manifest itself but every once in a while is very hard for a technician to diagnose. Very likely it worked fine for him and he had to guess what was happening when you were having trouble.

I don't know what engine is on your mower, but I'll assume it has a separate starter solenoid that is not mounted on the starter. And that is what you are 'jumping'.

If it is, put a test light between the battery negative (-) and the small post of the starter solenoid. When you turn the key, if it lights and the starter does not turn over, it is probably the starter solenoid itself. If you turn the key and no light, then your problem is probably at one of the safety switches, such as the seat switch, pto switch (or lever) or clutch pedal.

If there are two small posts on the solenoid, Then you need to consult the wiring schematic to see if the safety switches allow a ground to the solenoid when its 'satisfied'.

If your engine is turning part way and stalling, then you probably need the valves adjusted. You also need a pretty good battery this time of year most places in North America. A weak battery plays all kinds of tricks with the safety circuit.
 
Does your machine have a Kawasaki engine. Bet it does. You turn the key two or three or four times and it just goes clunk, and then suddenly it starts?? Just live with it. My 180 does the same thing. Even replaced the starter. Problem is the voltage supplied by the battery. If you have around the high 12 volt area the solenoid will pick up and start. A battery at rest around 12.2 is just not quite enough.. If you run the machine for ten minutes or so and shut it off. It will start right back up I bet. Check all of your electrical connections but this summer I am going to put heavier cables on mine. The neighbor has the smaller 160 and his did the same. He finally changed the engine when he couldn't fix the carburetor when it broke. The voltage on those starters is very critical for some reason. Goofy problem but oh well. My 160 hooked to the leaf sucker.
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In addition to the ignition switch, there's several safety switches in the circuit, and switches and the connections at their terminals don't get any better with age.

You can troubleshoot with a voltmeter, check the battery voltage at the ignition switch before and during an attempt to crank, and not if it drops appreciably, then move on to the next switch in the series 'til you find a significant voltage drop.

Also, John Deere sells a "starting improvement kit", an "ice cube relay" with a simple siring harness included.

The little relay takes less current to activate than the starter solenoid, causing less voltage drop, when it closed, it switches full battery power to the main solenoid.

Your tractor probably isn't on the list of models it's intended for, but it can be used on most ANY machine, if you understand basic electricity.

Kit is part #AM107421.

You can also save some $$$ and gather up the parts and make your own little "harness".
Starting improvement kit instructions
 
JD has a improvement starter solenoid wiring harness part # AM107421 for Kawasaki engines to take care of the problem.
First check all electrical connections and safety switches for corrosion and make sure switches and starter solenoid are in working order. In time resistance builds up in switches, connections and the lack of large enough wire to supply enough voltage to engage the solenoid.
This is for starter mounted solenoid's.
I have 4 of these 2 on 185 hydros one on a f510 and one on a f525 and have no more starting problems.
 
Hey Bob, thanks for the PDF file!!!. After I looked at the little harness in the photo all kinds of little bells went off and a flash of inspiration popped. As I said in my first reply about voltage drop and then seeing the photo l knew how to fix the problems. Then at the bottom there is a schematic and I though Dang. .. I have all of the parts already! The black horn relay and the little harness socket for it. Got it at a car show. Think is was $8.oo for both. Next spring that sounds like an interesting hour long retro fit project. Thanks again for posting that file. If these Kawasaki starters don't have enough juice they can't pull in the starter drive. If that drive doesn't pull all of the way tight the copper disk inside will not hit the battery power lugs and nothing moves. The safety switches and the lite weight wire harness is not quite enough capacity. Thanks again.
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