82 Series Repower

Moohindra

Member
I have a 982 and want to put a good-size Kohler VTwin in it, like 25hp. I have some projects in mind where I'd like to use the front PTO to drive a generator or some other belt-driven stuff.

Looking at the Kohler Command models out there is confusing. Don't know if I trust these outfits that offer repower kits, for one thing they seem overpriced for what you get and I'm afraid of getting some jerk out there who will sell me the wrong thing. If you go on some websites and look at the packages you don't see the basic information all together like mounting plate size, output shaft size, and motor spec (like for instance there is a Kohler replacement Toro/Exmark CH740-3175). So where do I go to spec-out a replacement motor so I know exactly what I am getting and get some good advice? When I called Jack's Small Engines (supposedly has a great reputation) I got a salesmen who wasn't very chummy and basically said well here's what we've got take it or leave it.

I'm in no hurry to do this, just don't know where to start. And don't want to spend hundreds more than I need to.
 
That is surprising. Have delt with them several times and everytime
they have been very nice. Could have been a busy day. The guys will
fill you in but certian horse power engines be they
kohler,briggs,kawasaki, honda, the holes are the same. You absolutely
need to know the shaft size and length. Most of this stuff is
universal. Just as long as the wireing and cables hook up. The other
guys will fill you in
 
Thanks for the info jeffcat, yeah they may just have been busy. I've talked to them once before and they were friendly I just don't want to make a mistake and have to send something back. This Cub Cadet has an non-running Onan P220 and I wish I had the time to fool with it but don't. I need to pull the PTO clutch off and measure the shaft. Choices are 1-1/8" or 1-7/16"? Good to know the mounting plates are the same.
 
Ahhh, your 982 originally had a B48G Onan, so it's had engine problems before. Frankly, I've heard bad
things about both engines. I've Had a 982 for over 18 years, Definitely NOT a fan of my B48G, it had been
completely rebuilt just before I bought the tractor, Bill was around $1500 on the engine, tractor had 4
new tires and new paint.
Tractor has been 100% trouble-free, Onan, has not.

Small Engine Warehouse, SEW, in Muncie, Indiana, last I knew was looking for a 982 to build a repower kit
for them. They need the tractor for a while, and forget what kind of break you got on parts & labor. If
you look at their website under "Repower old equipment", then "Cub Cadet", then "984", meaning 982 with
all the options, rear pto, 3-point hitch, frt aux hyd outlets, and turning brakes, That is my 982.
 
Dr. E, I've seen that picture! Really cool looking tractor. No I don't want to even get into the Onan after reading a few horror stories. The guy that sold it seemed liked the typical Onan victim: carb problems, manifold leak, new cylinder gaskets, couple of starters, etc. Probably spent as much as I paid for the whole tractor. Do you remember the output shaft size, was it 1-7/16" ?
 
No horror stories here, P218/ over 1850 hrs. and P220 with 1280 hrs. original to 30 year old Wheel Horses. Not much in the line of trouble.
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I don't think anyone is going to tell you what spec. number engine is in their kit. After all, if you can go around them to get the
engine, they lose the sale.

I work in the small engine field. Any re-power with anything other than the exact same engine will usually require some changes to the
electric clutch, exhaust system, engine mounts, electrical and sometimes the fuel system. In the case of your 982, you also have the
driveshaft from the flywheel side of the engine to deal with. So its not strictly the engine you are needing, but all the other parts to
make it work in your chassis.

Several years ago, we did a warranty repair on a Briggs Vanguard engine in a 318 Deere. During the course of the repair, we learned that
the entire re-power kit was about $1600. At the time, that was about the MFG list price for the engine, not counting the mount plate,
muffler, clutch driveshaft, etc.
 
Thanks TRK, that's why I want to just find the right motor that will bolt in. I think the mounting pattern on these engines (all appear the same) will mate up to the 982 mounting plate. Have a working electric PTO clutch, just need to match the output shaft diameter. And the drive shaft should bolt on with the right parts. I might be wrong but I think that I can round-up everything I need without doing a 'kit'. I can cut, drill, weld, etc. but obviously want to minimize that.
 
TRK,
I have a Kawasaki FD620D engine that is smoking like a tar kiln and I was trying to find a good used replacement. (900 hrs) a previous owner had punched several holes in the hose going from filter to intake. Also might be a broken ring as only one plug fouls. Every complete engine i found had 2 to three times the hours that my has. I seen where a person replaced theirs with a B&S Vanguard but had to replace the variable speed pulley with a comet. (Due to tapered shaft on kawi engine) I know that will probably cause belt fitment issues.

Your opinion on replacement? What would your first option be?
Thanks
Jim
 
The nice thing about your Cub is that there is a lot of room to work under those side shields and any re-power is pretty doable. The big thing you have to watch is that is that the charging capacity is enough to run your electric clutch. I ran into that years ago putting a opposed 18 Briggs apposed twin into a narrow frame. Once got charging system up to snuff, I mowed grass with it for years.

Currently I am in the process of putting a Harbor Freight Predator 22 Hp V-twin in a 1872 Super Cub. From what I have read, the charging system in that will NOT run the electric clutch but it will be primarily for pushing snow and draw bar chores so I am not real worried about it. All the parts for this install are available from Performance670.
 
(quoted from post at 08:14:46 12/14/18) The nice thing about your Cub is that there is a lot of room to work under those side shields and any re-power is pretty doable. The big thing you have to watch is that is that the charging capacity is enough to run your electric clutch. I ran into that years ago putting a opposed 18 Briggs apposed twin into a narrow frame. Once got charging system up to snuff, I mowed grass with it for years.

Currently I am in the process of putting a Harbor Freight Predator 22 Hp V-twin in a 1872 Super Cub. From what I have read, the charging system in that will NOT run the electric clutch but it will be primarily for pushing snow and draw bar chores so I am not real worried about it. All the parts for this install are available from Performance670.
Performance670, perfect. Thanks for the tip. Yes I was looking at the HF Predator 22hp VTwin also, hard to ignore for $725. Just get the extended warranty and your good. I think it puts out 7amps. Original M18 in the 1872 produced 15amps if I remember right.
 
You'll need to get the proper engine plate or drill yours, you'll need a driveshaft, exhaust, exhaust tins, PTO with proper diameter pulley. Wiring will need modified. The firewall will need modified for proper airflow.


Not sure of all of the differences between the IH cubs and CCC/MTD cubs, but finding a good deal on a Command equipped Cyclops may be a reasonable starting point, even if it has a good 18hp to run for a while and go big at a later date.
 
Thanks very much for the info. I think the 982 engine bay will do nicely. I have the stock electric PTO w/pulley, need to check the shaft size.
 
Wow, I've never had to do anything to my pto clutch, never had it off. The newer tractors, 1872/2072
take a 1-7/16" clutchp
 
You might look into a mini alternator.
Small physical size and good power output.
Beats messing with the internal alternator on a LGT engine.
 
I put over 1400 hours on a K241 Kohler that had been rode hard and put away wet till it was WAY worn out. Had a good engine shop knurl the piston, lightly honed the bore, ground the valves and ground about 1/16th inch off the head to get it flat. I built almost a garden tractor pulling motor to replace it, small flywheel K321, 14 hp making more like 17-18 hp. The 10 hp is living it's third life in a Cub Cadet 70 Dad bought new in 1965 that I put thousands of hours on, wearing out three K161/181 engines.

Back when I used to read posts on Weekend Freedom Machines forum they had more complaints on the newer P series Onans than the old B series. Biggest fault was exhaust valve seats coming out. Normally ruins the head, piston, and conn rod. Then the plastic governor finger wheel, and the intake manifolds delaminating, and the occasional broken conn rod were problems.

Guy on another forum that used to work as a service tech at a welding supply shop said they would replace all the Onan engines in the Lincoln and Miller portable welders. When they had enough to fill a 20 cubic yard scrap container they would clean house.

I'd REALLY like to swap a 2 or 3 cylinder Duetz air cooled diesel into my CC 982. Really don't want a water cooled engine with all the dust and debris around a mower.
 

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