I can't tell if my tractor has the 2 stage clutch. Here's what really bothers me, when you push the clutch down it doesn't stop the PTO, even when you push it all the way down. Any ideas would be appreciated. I just bought the tractor a month ago and haven't had time to tinker with it much.
- Thread starter robroy
- Start date
derwen1959
Member
How high is clutch pedal?
If tractor stops when pedal is pressed probably you have livedrive , if pto keeps turning when pedal is pressed right down then pto clutch is stuck
If tractor stops when pedal is pressed probably you have livedrive , if pto keeps turning when pedal is pressed right down then pto clutch is stuck
Majorman
Well-known Member
- Location
- Scarning, Norfolk, England
On a Live clutch Dexta, there are two holes in the yolk that goes to the clutch lever. Front hole = gear change only, PTO will not stop. Rear hole = gear change and PTO. Gear change half way down, PTO fully down.
Yes it could be that simple. My Super Dexta was that way when I bought it 30 years ago. Dextas have a long clutch throw in dual clutch mode and you have to lift your foot pretty high. Its understandable that it might be set up that way on a farm with multiple tractors and having tractors dedicated to particular jobs, so maybe yours was used mostly to tow a ground drive hay rake or tedder, for instance.
Majorman
Well-known Member
- Location
- Scarning, Norfolk, England
More reasons for running in the front hole, the hydraulic pump is driven from the shaft that drives the PTO so the hydraulics stop working when the PTO stops with the clutch. The PTO shifter is behind the pump drive gear and so the PTO can be disengaged leaving the pump working hence the Live name.
When the yoke is in the front hole, the hydraulics do not stop working when the clutch is used to select forward gears, Live Drive, and also the clutch pedal does not come up as high making it easier on the left leg.
Using in the front hole also reduces the wear in the internal linkage on the clutch itself.
I run mine in the front hole unless I am using PTO driven equipment, it becomes second nature to change the pin position when attaching or removing implements. I have lost count of the number of times and miles I have driven as a service engineer, to tractors with faulty clutches, only to put the pin in the rear hole. :0)
When the yoke is in the front hole, the hydraulics do not stop working when the clutch is used to select forward gears, Live Drive, and also the clutch pedal does not come up as high making it easier on the left leg.
Using in the front hole also reduces the wear in the internal linkage on the clutch itself.
I run mine in the front hole unless I am using PTO driven equipment, it becomes second nature to change the pin position when attaching or removing implements. I have lost count of the number of times and miles I have driven as a service engineer, to tractors with faulty clutches, only to put the pin in the rear hole. :0)
Majorman
Well-known Member
- Location
- Scarning, Norfolk, England
Someone has fitted the later type starter with the solenoid mounted on it.
This type does away with the manual lever which was used to engage the starter Bendix.
No problems with that unless you wanted to keep it original.
I do not have a diagram for that but all that is required is the battery lead fitted to one terminal on the solenoid, the other terminal should have a lead going into the starter. The battery terminal should also have the lead from the regulator, A1 or 2, also fitted. This is also the supply for all other electrics like lights.
There should then be a lead from the new starter switch going to the spade terminal on the solenoid, the other side of the switch should be connected to the ignition switch so that it only has power when the ignition is switched on. Check your original wires to the original starter, there should be two in the loom, that went to the starter switch on the top of the old starter, One of these will be live when the ignition is switched on and this is where the feed to your new starter switch should come from.
This type does away with the manual lever which was used to engage the starter Bendix.
No problems with that unless you wanted to keep it original.
I do not have a diagram for that but all that is required is the battery lead fitted to one terminal on the solenoid, the other terminal should have a lead going into the starter. The battery terminal should also have the lead from the regulator, A1 or 2, also fitted. This is also the supply for all other electrics like lights.
There should then be a lead from the new starter switch going to the spade terminal on the solenoid, the other side of the switch should be connected to the ignition switch so that it only has power when the ignition is switched on. Check your original wires to the original starter, there should be two in the loom, that went to the starter switch on the top of the old starter, One of these will be live when the ignition is switched on and this is where the feed to your new starter switch should come from.
Majorman
Well-known Member
- Location
- Scarning, Norfolk, England
Sorry, no video or picture, you have to have at least 10 posts before this site allows you to post videos and pictures or contact the site owners and ask to be allowed to do so.
The video will need to be pretty small otherwise it will be rejected.
The video will need to be pretty small otherwise it will be rejected.
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