Super major will not start

BOSS300

New User
Thanks for adding me to the forum.
I have a super major that I recently installed a rebuild injector pump and new lift pump.
I bled the system multiple times and have fuel to the injectors. It fires for a second and then dies, I have tried moving the timing 180 and that did nothing.
Any help would be appreciated
 
If it ran at all, the timing was close. Did you gravity , or hand pump bleed the air from the fuel filter base bleed screw? There is a bleed
screw on the right upper side of the injection pump, do you still get air bubbles there? Why did you replace the lift, and injection pumps?
If there is any possibility of an air leak between the fuel tank, and the suction side of the lift pump, these old girls will suck air, also
check you fuel flow from the tank, the screen in the tank could also be plugged.
 
The tractor has been in the family for 30 years, this year it would not start and wasn't getting fuel. I took the injector pump apart and it was full of brass filings, gate was seized and main bearing was shot.
I bled it starting at the fuel filter then pump and then injector lines, I was getting an intermittent squirt at the end of the injector lines but no air bubbles
 
Start by removing the valve cover, and make sure both valves are closed on #1, and crank is on the timing mark. Then make sure the inj. pump
is on it's timing mark. If the 2 clamp bolts weren't removed or loosened on the coupler, the pump can only go on in time or 180 deg. out.
If the clamp bolts have been loosened, rotate the pump drive so that there is a gap at the end of the slot, about a dime thickness. That's
how we used to set them if we had to change the coupler out in the field. The running for a few seconds, and dieing, still sounds like air
in the system. I would go through the bleeding process again. You might pick Bern, or Majormans brains and see if I'm missing something.
 
Did you set it on 23 degrees in the timing window on the sump then make sure the pump
marks on the coupling line up or are close? The easy check to see if you are correct or
180 degrees out is to see if the clamp bolt that holds the pump drive coupling is below
the shaft or above it. It should be below the shaft when on No.1 cylinder and with the
marks at the sump and pump lined up.

Another thing to check is if the cold start button on the pump is stuck in. Work the stop
control backwards and forwards, grip the button with a pair of pliers and try and pull it
out.

If all that is correct I would suspect either your new lift pump or your repaired
injection pump.
 
Thanks for the help guys, I will try to work on it in the next few days
mvphoto43379.jpg
 

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