I'm going to try to post some pictures of what I have here I've had this tractor fall in my lap I really like to know more about it and what it is and maybe how much it's worth. I'm told it is not ran for the last two or three years but it's supposed to run good. It is located in Augusta Georgia USA.

Also please note that something at John and I found out by looking at his tractor is that the control arm for the injector pump Simms is been installed 180 degrees wrong this control rod should be pointing down and the cable grabbing it from the bottom that would make me push pull cable function work like it was designed. So consequently I will be taking the control lever off and rotating it 180 degrees.

Thank you very much great people and a great site.

Thank you very much great people and a great site. ????

Good to hear, it sounds great. Here's links to your videos.

1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSM-9M4-Ujw

2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6BvtY3um9g

3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKnHXcrAX9M

4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aSv9PDc9Zc

[quote="gandl2123"](reply to post at 19:02:49 03/09/18) [/quot

I would like to say thank you to everyone that helped me get this tractor running I went away from the tractor site and went on YouTube and had some special help from mr. John rabbit of Australia special thanks to him and others as well that helped me get this tractor going I was not able to post videos on this site because they limit 2mb vids. So if you have access to the website called YouTube please go there and search for the following words -. "62 Ford 5000 Super Major". You will see my tractor and for videos and some pictures the number for video is finally success at firing up this gem. Enjoy and thanks again. In the next few days I'm going to change the oil and also change the oil in the injector unit as it it has to be contaminated with many many ounces of WD-40 and carb cleaner. Lol

You can upload your videos to youtube then attach link here.

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/12490.jpg

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/12486.jpg

Anyone that would like to help me with this please send me your email so I can attach bigger files I can't upload these videos that I want to my email is GandL2123 at gmail.com tks. Greg

Now on this picture you can clearly see that the number to plunger is up this must have happened when the can pushed it up you can also see how dirty the cylinder is for that plunger / tablet

You can clearly see in this picture all the way to the right left to right one through for you can see the number for plunger and the number 3 plunger are at the same height you can also see that the number one plunger is at that same pipes and then when you look at the second plunger you can see it's down. Now I'm going to try to find it but I have a picture that I'm going to load up and I swear that the second plunger is in the up position. Also it is amazing how much crud and dirt is a long these plungers I need to basically spray them as the engines cranking. This will definitely help with the cleaning of 1/3 and 4 as those cylindrical tappets go up and down.

You can clearly see in this picture all the way to the right left to right one through for you can see the number for plunger and the number 3 plunger are at the same height you can also see that the number one plunger is at that same pipes and then when you look at the second plunger you can see it's down. Now I'm going to try to find it but I have a picture that I'm going to load up and I swear that the second plunger is in the up position. Also it is amazing how much crud and dirt is a long these plungers I need to basically spray them as the engines cranking. This will definitely help with the cleaning of 1/3 and 4 as those cylindrical tappets go up and down.

I'm going to try and post a picture I want you to look at the picture good I actually can see where the second plunger during one of my photographs is in the up position you can see all kind of crud on it but you can tell that it's the same level as the other plungers. Now it was down and I cannot move it at all I have not tried to rotate the engine to get these to move but I have seen as the engine is cranking the second one is not moving. But yes you understood correctly the rack is moving freely back and forth when I move the stop cable but the plunger number 2 is stuck in the down position.

the camshaft should push it all the way up

i am lost, i have never had a stuck plunger and a free rack

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Ok. I've been in the belly of the beast. The rack was freed when it was first touched after the cover was removed. Goes back and forth fine. The Stop cable operates the arm on the pump and when the cable is pushed all the way in the rack is pushed all the way to the rear. Pushing the rod or opening/pulling the cable out to the start position does not move the rack forward. I guess it is free to have the governor do that when tractor is cranked.

Upon inspection you stated the the rack would be free if I could get the plunger unstuck...well, three of the four plungers are in the up position and the rack was going back and forth left and right. The 2nd plunger is stuck partially down. I'm going to go out after I have sprayed earlier in the afternoon and I'm going to try as you stated to push down on the flange/spring assemble as carefully as I can to get it to move downward in its bore. If I can budge it down (as I have not been able to get it up at all, I will then spray and try to move up, then down, then up until I can get it moving freely like the others.

When I crank the engine with cover off I can see each of the plungers (except for the 2nd one that is stuck) moving in a timing / firing fashion but the 2nd one just sits there and does not move up or down. I'm going to make my mission to get this one unstuck and hope that restores fuel flow.

I think this old starter is getting warn out. She is really starting to crank slower and slower even with two battery's and decompression off. I'm really hoping it starts soon before I have to buy a starter and an injection pump. Wey too much $$ to spend on this old tractor. ha. Tks

. I'm having a problem uploading the pictures but I'm going to keep trying. I was able to get the rack moving back and forth very easily also when the cable is pushed in that is the stop cable the rack moves all the way rearward. But while quick in the tractor I can clearly see that the second plunger from the seat is actually stuck in the down position. I also noticed that I am getting diesel fuel squirting out of the high pressure lines near the injectors out of some of the lines.

I'm going to look at it this afternoon so I should have an update I might make a small video and somehow get it on the tractor site. Can short videos be posted here? I'm going to be very very careful and use carb cleaner and try to get things that are stuck free and get the rack moving then lubricate change the oil in the pump itself see if I can get some fuel squirting.

the elements

I think I actually can get three of them up at the same time

if you can do that, then you really have BIG problems, haha

I thought too, that it might have just jammed.

When the engine is stationary, the fuel rack is in the full fuel position.

So when it dries out and jams, it is in full fuel position.

It sounds to me that someone has pulled the stop and it has been free enough to move

I actually remember about a month ago and my dad cracked the injectors and we saw a fuel seeping out of each injector so this stuck maybe a recent stuck and it should not be that hard to fix

Awesome I think I have a plan now and I'm thinking that the rod is stuck because of the actuator at the bottom of the spring probably so I will do as you say I will rotate the engine by hand with the decompression lever off until I get one of the Springs up I think I actually can get three of them up at the same time then I will try to very carefully use some Degreaser WD-40 or something and try to loosen that valve up and then see if the rack will move spraying inside both ends of the shaft should be fun. I absolutely love doing this stuff to this old tractor and can't wait to hear her first words in a long time. Lol. Thanks for your help I really appreciate it there are also a couple of good videos on YouTube that show this rack and the relationship to the springs and the actuators.

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

The rack is moved by the governor.

If the rack dosnt move freely, don’t force it.

You didn’t say if you could move the rack, I assume you cant.

First thing to do

Get the engine in a position where any one of the free plungers is in the UP position (spring compressed)

Then try and get the stuck one in to the down position.

Try tapping it down somehow, be careful not to damage any thing.

If you can get a pair of pliers around the spring, then tap the pliers down

You could try tapping a screwdriver between the spring coils at the top of the spring, not the bottom

If you get it down, turn the engine over and it will jam in the up position again.

Keep repeating the process until in goes up and down freely.

Once it moves up and down freely, the rack will be free

Make sure the injector lines are cracked so the engine dosnt start.

As I said in a previous post, Don’t start the engine until you have cheeked that the stop works

Interesting what you say this tractor has set for a few years yes 2nd plunger from the steering wheel is stuck and not going up or down number one three and four from the steering wheel are going up and down when I take the cover off of The Sims pump I can see there's two nut holders that hold the cover on but can be removed behind them there is a rack of sorts do I need to spray this and try to manipulate it back and forth until it goes to the rear then check it and it should possibly all plungers work and then fuel will come? Is this rack moved forward and rearward by the stop cable, or by the throttle cable?

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

If I understand you correctly, you are saying that one of the plungers is stuck.

If I am right, it will be stuck in the UP position and is not coming down.

We have this problem a lot in Australia dew to having a lot of wax in the fuel.

After the engine has been stood for some time, only the wax is left and the element gets stuck.

If the element is stuck, it will jam the rack, if the rack is in the stop position you wont get any fuel.

So question? With the side plate off , can you move the rack freely backward and forward (to the front and to the rear)

With the engine stood( not running) the rack should want to go to the back of the motor, this is full rev posion

This drawing is interesting in the fact that (1) It does not have an anchor point for the STOP cable in the drawing. The cable goes into the arm at the bottom...mine has an anchor point and the arm is attached to the shaft and then goes up, not down. Also this pic shows a bleed screw to the left under injector 4. There is also a bleed screw under injector 1. I bleed the one on the right first, then the one on the left...but in looking and thinking....as the fuel comes in from the line that comes from the fuel filter it goes past the first and onto the one that the arrow is pointing to....this left screw is indented and different than the one on the left. I would think that the bleed action would need to be performed on the left and not the right.

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Thanks for your reply. Yes...fuel goes to sediment bowl then to in on fuel filter (New) IN side bled then OUT side bled then front of injector bled. Then cranked and should have seen fuel come out at high pressure....seems to be something with pump.

Did you change the fuel filter, did you open the fuel pump bleed screw on the injection pump? No need for 12V to pump. Should have throttle wide open when starting.
When bleeding injectors do one at a time, as soon as it gets fuel close it and do the rest the same.

Not sure what is going on with the plunger in your pump.

Hope this helps, good luck!

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Had a nice book written and was scrapped due to not meeting some standard...OMG...I want to ...scream.

Bled system completely on low side. No leaks, bubbles and all is well.
Removed high side lines where they go into injectors, engaged decompression level and cranked over and over again. No fuel whatsoever.

Will check and see if throttle was in right pos but new stop cable was installed and cable was all the way forward. Tank full of fule.

Removed SIM Injector pump "valve / front cover from pump and all looked good inside...not rusty or dry. But, when cranking the engine the 2nd spring thing was not going up and down like the others. 1 2 3 4 from seat to radiator and number 2 was just looking at me.

Also the way I'm trying to start this tractor as I do not have a key is to push down on the starting lever while shorting out the solenoid. It starts and runs with starting fluid but will not run on its own. Do I need 12v current going to the injector pump or something? I'm under the impression that if I were to have high pressure diesel going into the cylinders with the stop cable in the correct position and good timing with good compression that this tractor would run...no need for the ignition switch to be employed. Right?

Please advise. Tks

in JLMac picture, note the excess fuel button, this is for cold starting.

lever in full revs position, towards the front of the engine, then push the button in

8 quarts. Here's a manual.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Super-Major-Manual/261441274587?hash=item3cdf1d42db:g:WbAAAOxydUJTOxxw

How many quarts of oil does this tractor take on a change?

Nice diagram. Thank you for posting.

I grabbed this image from the net, the top mark is were you add oil, you fill to the other mark and the drain is the bolt below that.

Not yet. ????

Not yet. ????

Notice right below the Twisted upper radiator hose is a lever in the down position this position gives full compression while cranking if you pick that lever up you can bleed the system with no compression and the battery just turn the engine right over.

I will see if I got a picture of that lever it's actually pretty cool it makes it much easier on the battery to turn over much easier to bleed and like you said it would probably help started almost like you do with ATVs that have a decompression lever.

Rinsed filter out with clean diesel. Ordering one w new petcock valve and maybe new pump. I'm collecting all the filters and getting containers to drain fluids into.

Forgot to mention the decompression lever, I don’t think I have seen one my self

I believe it gets a bit cool in Canada, in the cool weather when the motor is hard to crank, you hold the lever in the decompression position crank the engine,
When the engine is up to revs you drop the lever and hopefully it will start.

It would be good to decompress the engine while cranking it to bleed the fuel also
As for your dad, I too am 75

You did change the fuel filter and the oil in the injector pump?

Very nice explanation of the details I think in point to that are two bolts won the input line and to the output line I'm going to leave the first one on the left first and then the second one on the right next work over to the pump I do understand about that stop lever I didn't know what that was supposed to be in or out. My 75 year old dad was telling me that it needed to be in to run and out to stop I don't know why I kept not believing him he was wrong I mean he was right in so many accounts. The cable is very sticky on the injector so I may just take that cable off and work it by hand if I need to but I do understand the need to see the fuel stop with the engine cranking also there's a lever on top of the valve cover in the front that cranks it over with no compression which will help in this process I think that's why it's there. Right now I don't have a key for it I am pulling the start lever to engage the starter and then I'm crossing the solenoid with a screwdriver and that's cranking it up just fine on either but until I bleed it it won't work on diesel. The fuel pump was screwing fuel out the side of it but I tighten up the front nut two or three turns and that went away I'm probably going to have to invest in a fuel pump rebuild kit with new gaskets for that thing about $13 out here. Thanks for your help now I know exactly what I need to do.

No 1 stop cable, needs to be all the way to the front to start, pull to the rear to stop.

No 2 accelerator lever, all the way to the front for full revs

No 3 fuel hand pump, this pump is used for bleeding the fuel system.

If the pump lever is on the top of the cam, the hand lever will not work very well if at all.

If you feel there is no resentence when operating the lever, turn the engine about ½ a turn and try again and if no look, turn it some more.

Loosen the bleeder Bolt on top of the filter and operate the fuel pump lever, it should pump fuel out.

When it dose, Tighten the bleeder

Then undo the bleeder bolts on the side of the injector pump, and pump fuel out of them.

Tighten the bleeder bolt

Then, undo the injector lines at the injectors, and crank the motor over on full throttle.

When you have fuel squirting out of the fuel lines, pull the stop cable and with the engine still cranking, make sure the fuel flow stops, if it doesn’t stop, don’t go any further.

If you cant turn the fuel off with the stop cable, then you cant stop the motor.

That’s how I do it, you do it at your risk

Nice so does that make it a 62 model or does that make it like cars today and makes it a 63? Also if you don't mind what was your source of information? Or maybe even better if you could post a little picture of the book you're getting out of that shows the serial number range. Tks. Were these tractors only Built between 1961 and 64 or 1960 and 64? I was just a two-year-old toddler when this thing was put on the ground. Lol

According to my info, she is December 1962

I was able to get her started she fired right up on ether but then she shut down I had to set up at Bowl off I'm going to have to get a new fuel petcock it's barely letting any fuel come out of the tank the tank was terribly nasty smelling so I got rid of the old fuel cleaned out the sediment tank which look like a swamp cleaned out the fuel filter which look like a swamp and now I think I'm stuck with having maybe to somehow bleed the system and I don't know the procedure but she did fire right up and as long as I missed it the efer into her she just sat there and purred.

Hello, hope you get your tractor started and sorted out. Additional information at fordsontractorpages.nl in England where this tractor was built. Brian is the man from the factory and can help you a bunch. Majors are built like a tank and can even handle a 6 cyl engine conversion. Best Regards brownsmule in NC

Went over tonight and I was able to swap out the old fuel for good diesel fuel I cleaned out the sediment bowl which was absolutely horrible I was able to take the fuel filter off it was also muddy horrible. The tractor fires right up and knocks a little bit on ether but it won't run on its own I don't understand the controls. I figured out the compression handle at the front of the head when it is down I'm getting full compression and she runs when it is up there is no compression then she just rolls over I don't know why this handle or this decompression handle would be part of this tractor or the proper way to use it. There is a choke looking lever on the right side of the front panel when I pull that it pulls a lever on the back of the injection pump. I don't know if this lever on the injection pump is to be in the forward position or the rear word position in order to run. The handle under the steering wheel which is the throttle I don't know if it is to be pushed away from me or near me or in the middle when I'm trying to start it. There is a small lever on the fuel pump itself I don't know what this is for unless it's some kind of prime mechanism nor do I understand how to use it. When the tractor was running on ether there was fuel coming out of the gasket area on the fuel pump couple turns on that bolt in the front of the fuel pump and that stopped. I'm really at a loss and don't know what to do I do not have a key to this tractor but power and jumping the starter solenoid as I hold down on the starter handle cranks the tractor over and it starts on ether it just won't run by itself on its own diesel. I'm going to go ahead and post a bunch of pictures I believe it's a 1963 64 as above maybe it's a Canadian model. I would love if I can find some kind of a manual or book that showed me what every single lever and handle and switch and cable does.

I got some numbers here can anybody tell me what year this tractor is?

OMGosh tks for posting this. Got mine started tonight but won't stay running. Don't want to put ether in her but she fires right up but not getting fuel.

power steering, thats a bit flash

i did put power steering on mine when i changed the axle

You could try tractor wreckers for 30 inch rims.

Wow there's a whole lot of history there with that boy. Looks like he could use a full restore as well. I like the way that tire fits with that Fender where you can still get a fist in between there. My tire is way too tight on the fender. The one thing I like about the tractor that I have is all the sheet metal I don't think there's one dent anywhere. I just really don't have much use for a tractor I just would love to do the work and restore it and I can use it to drag my driveway.

went looking for the blade, didnt find it but i did find the frame.

the frame is attached to the three point linkage.
to lift the blade, you lift the three point linkage.

Those are the wrong rear wheels on it, they should be white and dished different.

I will have to look for the blade, haven’t seen it in a while

I meant to say the hydraulics are live

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

I got this tractor off my uncle, he bought it new, it has done a terrific amount of work, I have had it for over forty years.
Amongst other things, after the dozers went through, he cleared over 4000 acres with this machine

Sometimes getting up to four punctures a day and that is with cover tires

This was in the sixtys

Being a farmer and not to clued, maintenance was close to zero

The fuel pump seized up twice to my knowledge, lack of oil

The front axle is not standard, it came off a international crane, the original axle housing broke

The engine is now us, needs rebuilding.

Its been a wonderful machine

Standard tires in Australia are 18.4 28

12v is standard

The long lever by your left foot is to engage the PTO and hydraulics if I remember correctly

hydraulics are live

The PTO is then engaged and disengaged by the lever at the rear but if the lever by your left foot Is not engaged the PTO will not drive
The lever by your left knee is the starter

cant get the photo to load, its on there but isnt loading

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/006/4/4/6440-ford-5000-diesel.html

I noticed that when I looked at the above site the rear tires on this are very large and almost hit the fenders it would probably be a better looking tractor with 30 inch rims and the matching tires not to mention cheaper. I wonder if this tractor was retrofitted by Ford or by the customer we may never know. So much for being all original....

Yes the fuel shut off cable in right position and short starter and push starter lever, I think lol. And you should be sitting the seat with clutch the pedal depressed also when starting lol!
Didn't realize you had 38" rims, 30x16.9 are the common size for North American models.

So if I have the injector fuel delivery Cable in the correct position if I had to I could actually short the starter? You also forgot to tell me to make sure it's in neutral when I do this...lol. as far as the tires I'm having a big problem finding tires for it the 14 9x38 but apparently there's a place near the Florida border that has a set of used ones about 4 hours away for a decent price.

The key sends power to the starter, no glow plugs on the Majors. Hope you can get the rear tires repaired.

They're originally a 12 volt system, it's common to see alternator upgrade.

Thank you for the much-needed information everything was clear except for the part about the injection pump control knob but I do believe as a diesel that's what shuts it off as well the key is basically for the glow plug is my correct?

It will be a '63 or '64 made in England. Serial # is stamped on block above injection pump, should have FL on the head above that. '63 & '64 North American models of that tractor where called Ford 5000 Super Major and your color cream/gray hood and fenders and Blue.... In the rest of the world they where a Fordson Super Major with blue hood, white fenders...To start make sure the
injection pump fuel shut off control cable knob is pushed in. If you can find a key to fit it (I use a Toyota a key that came with mine) turn key till the gen light comes on, then push the lever down that's on the left that goes to the starter. In a few seconds it will fire up and you will have big smile on your face!

How do I tell what year of manufacture this tractor is where are the serial numbers or the model numbers anybody who has one like this please send me pictures of the gauges pictures and explanations of the knobs and controls maybe a picture with the blade underneath would be cool I cannot find anywhere on the internet one that is gray and blue like buying all of them are blue.

I wish somebody could tell me where the Ford 5000 came from from what I have discovered it seems as though this tractor was imported from Britain and it was right before Ford came out with their Ford 5000 so at least came off the boat Ford just put their sticker on them and sold. That's the story I'm getting I wish I could tell.

This is how the super majors looked when they came to Canada in 63&64 most had 16.9x30 rear tires,however other sizes could be ordered.

Would you please send me some pictures of your tractor also I would like if you could to explain to me what some of the controls are on the left and right side and as you're sitting in the seat there are so many Libras and bars I have no idea. Also I want to start this tractor but I have no key and I'm not sure how to start it without a key. It looks as though somebody has put an alternator on this tractor and switch it over to 12 volt from its original 6 volt. That too is a little bit confusing.

if that Blade is the same as mine, its not a front blade, it fits underneath between the front and rear axles
The tractor looks the same as mine but where the 5000 came from ???

Any update on this old tractor? Thanks pwb

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

No I can't find the blade anywhere it seems like all the support mechanisms are underneath the tractor but anything that went to the blade is gone and there seems to be some hydraulics in the back that are no longer there as well

Your welcome, the front blade attachment would be some what collectible I would think. Is the blade kicking around there?

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Thanks for the good advice. I wasn't even aware that it had oil to be changed in it. Lol

Great pictures, nice find! Make sure you change the oil in the injection pump, it takes same oil as engine as do the air breathers.

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

DAF-3 Dossier by ARPS parts available. Evidence of former hydrolics.

Went today and checked it out very well it all looks together the oil in the engine seems to be black I guess I could drain and make sure there's no water in it before I do it. From what I gather it used to have a dozer type blade on it I can't tell how many hours it's got on it because the gauge is messed up there. It does have probably a $500 or more 6 foot box blade on the back. When you say vintage apparently vintage doesn't make it worth anymore correct. We were able to turn the fan over and the motor is not locked it moved over quite easily and the first thing we noticed is some diesel fuel leaking out of the injector front area. So I imagine if I hook up the starter with the battery imagine I'm going to have one heck of a leak there a fuel smells very funny in the tank. I also believe it's been switched over to 12 volt as I see some of the wires are cut and it has what looks like a GM alternator on it. I'm going to go ahead and post some more pictures that I took today. I think I can get the owner to sell it to me for $500 and a couple rides on my nice Harley. Not sure if I'm doing the right thing here as I don't let anybody ride my Harley both tires need to be fixed because there's riveted patches in the tops of each tire.

I didn't know about the blade. Add for that. The last time, I bought a pair of tires,
they were nearly $1,000 installed.[Imports]. A little diesel seepage shouldn't bother at this point. Can probably be fixed with a new gasket or adhesive. I don't know what a southern climate does, but I wouldn't think 3 year old diesel fuel would be "bad'.

My use of "Vintage" in this context is just an expression, meaning approximate. It was the last year for English Fordson tractors. They made more of them under a different name in Spain. In the area of old cars, Vintage is something like 1919-1930. I don't know if tractor guys go by that very much. And they aren't like "Vintage Wine", in that certain years are better than others, but some might be thought so. For example, the Ford 3000, or JD 4020, or Farmall M. Some may think of 1942-45 tractors as "War Vintage", since they had special features to reduce use of strategic materials.

some interest IF you decide to part out or sell whole. email open pwb

It's of 1964 vintage. A good general purpose tractor in its day. It's kind of hard to gamble on a tractor that doesn't run.
You could part it out for $500 or more depending how fast you want
it gone. To get it running, you need at least $500 in tires and
a good cleaning of fluids, such as draining the bottom pint or so of
water condensation in engine and drive line. Sometimes the injector pump
gets sticky. If you know what you're doing it's not too hard to get it
freed up. I've got one with many, many hours, but it starts easily.