Ford 4000 information

Thanks for adding me to the forum.
I have a Ford 4000 3 cyl. gas tractor. I can't determine what year and other information. Can someone help me out?



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D1424C

D14(414) - 4000SU Special Utility 1965-1975
2 - Gas engine
4 - Ind. 540 rpm PTO
C - 8x2 speed manual (4x1 + hi/low)
 
About a month ago I was brush hogging and ran it up on a hidden stump. It mashed the clutch pedal all the way down and it stayed down when I cut the stump out. The pedal does nothing. I have to start the tractor in gear & turn the key off to stop. I tried slamming the brakes but that method didn't work. So tonight by son in law & I split it. I'll have someone look at it because I don't have a clue what to look for. I don't see anything obviously wrong.


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This post was edited by walleyejoe10 on 12/31/2022 at 09:05 am.
 
When you operate the clutch pedal, does the throwout bearing move forwards?? or did it break the fork or shear the bolt? Is there any damage to the pressure plate fingers?? did the disc shatter?? Shaft strip?
 
(quoted from post at 08:40:55 12/31/22) When you operate the clutch pedal, does the throwout bearing move forwards?? or did it break the fork or shear the bolt? Is there any damage to the pressure plate fingers?? did the disc shatter?? Shaft strip?

Yes the throw out bearing moves forward when operating the clutch arm with the linkage removed. With the clutch pedal linkage connected the pedal stays down and I have to manually pull it back up. I didn't see any damage but like I mentioned earlier, I don't know what I'm looking for so I left it just like it was when we split it. I've got a Ford Mechanic from Hannibal Tractor coming to investigate/repair it for me.
 


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More than likely that bolt at the bottom of the clutch fork is damaged allowing the fork and shaft to become out of time
If the pedal is down in that photo the bearing should be at the end of the tube
Looks like it s back about an inch
 
Well, after splitting the tractor everything looked good and appeared to work when moving the pedal arm without the linkage attached. After bringing it back together it's doing the same thing. The pedal stays down and won't disengage the clutch. Here's a video of the clutch pedal in motion. The shaft that is connected to the back end of the tractor is not moving. Suggestions please.

This post was edited by walleyejoe10 on 01/03/2023 at 09:42 am.
 
(quoted from post at 17:48:36 01/03/23)
It wants me to sign in to google to view
Did you take that bolt out i told you about and make sure the clutch shaft and fork were in time

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bGuwz99yB8u15BnZA

Try the link again. It's supposed to be in a Shared folder.

The mechanic did NOT remove that bolt. Only inspected and operated the parts on the back half. He did take the front apart and inspected the plate, fingers, pilot bearing, etc.
 

It worked that time
That little spring at the back is what helps hold the pedal up for free travel when everything is working properly
The pedal and linkage in the video is working properly
The clutch arm that attaches to the clutch rod could be bent but unlikely
Have you tried shortening the rod length at the front clevis to see if it would make some difference

Having owned and stumped a couple of my Fords my money is still on the clutch rod and fork timing
The mechanic would not have been able to see a issue with that part until he tried removing the bolt
That bolt is a fail safe component of the clutch linkage to prevent serious damage should the linkage to forced to travel beyond its normal distance, such as when hitting a stump
The bolt smashes or shears allowing the rod to turn inside the fork
 
(quoted from post at 11:04:27 01/04/23)
It worked that time
That little spring at the back is what helps hold the pedal up for free travel when everything is working properly
The pedal and linkage in the video is working properly
The clutch arm that attaches to the clutch rod could be bent but unlikely
Have you tried shortening the rod length at the front clevis to see if it would make some difference

Having owned and stumped a couple of my Fords my money is still on the clutch rod and fork timing
The mechanic would not have been able to see a issue with that part until he tried removing the bolt
That bolt is a fail safe component of the clutch linkage to prevent serious damage should the linkage to forced to travel beyond its normal distance, such as when hitting a stump
The bolt smashes or shears allowing the rod to turn inside the fork

Re-split the tractor.
The rear parts, Throw-out bearing spins freely and sounds good, fail safe bolt and shaft were great move freely. Fork moves back and forth smoothly. No visible damage. No problems. Works as designed.

So, we removed the pressure plate and fiber clutch disc. The disc still has plenty of life left and looks okay. The fingers on the pressure plate were all in place and move when pried on. What else could be wrong??? Planning to order a new pressure plate & clutch disc and hope for the best. :D
 

Question for ya.

I don't have clutch pedal return. I suppose when I bring the tractor back together with the new pressure plate and disc this will allow the pedal to return? If the linkage is adjusted correctly.
I'm very much a novice and learning all of this as I go. :oops:
Someone in another thread mentioned a stuck shaft when working on the throw-out bearing forks. Would that apply here?
 
(quoted from post at 12:46:34 01/04/23

Re-split the tractor.
The rear parts, Throw-out bearing spins freely and sounds good, fail safe bolt and shaft were great move freely. Fork moves back and forth smoothly. No visible damage. No problems. Works as designed.

So, we removed the pressure plate and fiber clutch disc. The disc still has plenty of life left and looks okay. The fingers on the pressure plate were all in place and move when pried on. What else could be wrong??? Planning to order a new pressure plate & clutch disc and hope for the best. :D

Replacing the clutch and pressure plate would be a waste of money

Did he actually take the bolt out
There s no way to tell if the shaft has turned in the fork without removing the bolt to see if the two parts are aligned
Post a photo of the clutch arm where the shaft goes into the clutch housing
 

Yes.
Removed the bolt, throw out bearing, fork & shaft for inspection.
It all appeared to be in place and not damaged.

Do you mind if I private message you my mechanics phone number? He can give you much better information.
 

Yes that s fine

I ll be splitting one of my 4000 s probably next week to replace the clutch and possibly the pto input shaft
I ripped something out of the pto drive a few days ago
I ll be able to take a few photos and get some measurements for you to check against yours
 
(quoted from post at 22:21:54 01/04/23)
Yes that s fine

I ll be splitting one of my 4000 s probably next week to replace the clutch and possibly the pto input shaft
I ripped something out of the pto drive a few days ago
I ll be able to take a few photos and get some measurements for you to check against yours

Sorry to hear about your 4000 PTO. :(

Here's a short video of me working the clutch pedal by hand. You can see it's working the shaft and fork. I went ahead and ordered a new pressure plate and clutch plate. Thought I might as well do it while I have it open. Got a spare if I need it! :?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jraSD8sviRHZCyHc8
 

It s just a thing
Got 22 years of hard use out of that clutch and pto drive
Didn t get time to make that call today, I ll try to get hold of him in the next day or two
 

Well, it was the clutch plate after all. No visible defects in the old one but with the new one installed the clutch pedal works (returns) like it's supposed to.

Now my issue is getting the steering radius arms back into the socket. [b:32e9c70ab6]What's the secret?[/b:32e9c70ab6] [color=red:32e9c70ab6][/color:32e9c70ab6][size=18:32e9c70ab6][/size:32e9c70ab6]

Also, my SIL hooked up the ground cable from the battery to the left side of the starter solenoid. Is that right? When I turned the key the solenoid smoked. :shock: From some pictures/diagrams I've looked at, the ground battery cable is attached to one of the starter mounting bolts. I'm confused.
 

Got it all back together and it started great and worked as it should. But.............. when I turned the key to the off position it wouldn't shut off! Removed the two small wires on the solenoid but that didn't make it stop. I had to pull a battery cable off to get it to stop. What the heck is going on??? I replaced the solenoid but the problem is still there.
 
The solenoid has nothing to do with shutting off the tractor. It is only involved in starting the engine. The key switch should remove power to the ignition coil when it is shut off. That is what stops gasoline engine, cutting off power to the coil. Apparently something is wired incorrectly and the coil is getting power even when the key switch is off. Or else the key switch is bad. That tractor likely has a bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil to bypass the resistance wire or ballast resistor while starting, and my guess would be that the bypass wire is connected to the wrong post on the solenoid. It should be connected to the large post going to the starter, not the one connected to the battery.
 
I've made it a habit to take a lot of pics of things before taking them apart. It's very helpful for reference putting them back after the project is interrupted for weeks and you memory goes south. A nice close color picture is typically a lot faster than looking things up in the service manual too.
 
(quoted from post at 16:38:55 02/02/23) I've made it a habit to take a lot of pics of things before taking them apart. It's very helpful for reference putting them back after the project is interrupted for weeks and you memory goes south. A nice close color picture is typically a lot faster than looking things up in the service manual too.

I did take a few pictures but unfortunately the side that matters didn't come through very well.

This post was edited by walleyejoe10 on 02/02/2023 at 03:12 pm.
 
FYI, the tractor is back in operation. After two splits, the clutch and pressure plate are working great. Checked and replaced wiring as needed. Replaced the ignition switch, solenoid again, installed LED headlights, top and bottom front grills, topped off all fluids, adjusted the brakes and clutch. Hopefully I won't jack it up again anytime soon. That repair was a freakin' nightmare when you don't know what you're doing. :roll:

Other things need attention too.
1. Both power steering cylinders leak a little bit.
2. Both front wheels wobble at speeds over 5 mph.

[color=RED:84a175799a]How hard is it to rebuild those cylinders? And does it work?
Is there a magic adjustment to lessen the wobble?[/color:84a175799a]

This post was edited by walleyejoe10 on 02/20/2023 at 09:05 am.
 

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