More 8670 Woes

Started the tractor yesterday. All the codes were still there. Now, the tractor won't move. We plugged a pressure gauge into one of the remotes. we have no hydraulic pressure there. Steering works. It was late and we were at wits end, so we quit for the day. My question is this. would the flow control on the 3 valves stacks stop hydraulic flow if they are turned all the way to low flow? We had pressure at the remotes and the tractor would move before we rebuilt the valve stack and remotes. Again, Thanks!

Something went haywire for sure. And I'm having a hard time connecting the work you did on the remotes with the fact that now it doesn't move. What code numbers do you have?

Flow control position does not matter, since it's a closed center system. If all the valves are in neutral, there is no flow through the stack.

The codes are: 010, 013, 026, 027, 205, 202, 342, 350, 388, 392. Also, the repair manual icon is lit up and flashing. I read quite a bit in the repair manual last night. I understand a little more than I did. I have also talked to a guy that is going to walk us through all the steps to remove the codes, calibrate the operations and whatever else need to done. We talked for at length yesterday and I now have a better grasp on understanding how this tractor works. It's a different beast from my TW35 to say the least.
I'm going back to the shop sometime today and write down all the codes its showing. The tractor is 5 miles from me in another shop. If there are more, I'll post them.
These tractors are fairly rare in this part of the world and finding a mechanic is nonexistent. But, after talking to him and reading what you and others have posted, I agree that these tractors were way ahead of the red and green ones. Thanks to everybody who has replied.

The 010 thru 027 codes are all 3pt hitch related.

The 205 and 202 are dash cluster related.

342 is engine RPM circuit open

350 is inching pedal down switch/pot disagree

388 is trans oil pressure sensor failed, low

392 is trans filter status.

Given that you have so many various codes I would start by checking all the wiring harness and connectors. Make sure everything it clean and plugged in tight.

code 388 has now disappeared.

With as many codes as you have, I'd be pulling the cab floor plate out and looking for rodent damage. The fact that the tractor was moving, and then mysteriously quit moving after you put the remotes back on, just does not add up.

Either that or you have a CCM starting to give out. Not uncommon on those.

Those tractors are fairly rare all over because FNH pulled the plug on them shortly after they came out.

We haven't seen any evidence of rodent damage on this tractor, but that doesn't mean they are not present. Hopefully today we'll start the process of clearing the codes. Wish us luck!

We saw no rodent damage. We tried for over two hours to clear the codes. Not a single one cleared. We went through the steps in the repair manual. One thing we noticed is that after we pulled a code up, hit reset, the screen went blank. punching the E/M button had no effect. We are wondering if the E/M button is bad.

I can't help you with the codes, but logically I can't see why they would be related to the hydraulics at all.
What I can say is... if you have steering, then you have main pump flow which I believe went to a priority valve. You need to find out where the load sense oil is going, or if you have main pump flow going to the main bank.

Where I would probably look now is at the end plate on the main bank. There should be a pressure reducing valve in there that provides pilot flow to the electric valve section for the hitch. If that is stuck open or has a broken spring, it may be bleeding the nominal signal flow that passes through the bank right out to sump. That valve should regulate pilot pressure to the electric valve to somewhere between low stand-by (~100 psi) to 550 psi,,, but if it is stuck open it will bleed the trickle flow out and the pump will never see load sense flow to go into stroke.
You need to get some gauges into the test ports on the end plate and see what you have for pressure, ideally in the pump gallery, the load sense line and the pilot pressure port of the end plate.
If you can't get low stand-by in the pump gallery, look for flow directly to sump from the bank.
If you can achieve nominal stand-by, then I'd start looking at the load sense shuttles again.
Essentially what happens is the bleed flow goes to the main spools. When you actuate a spool that bleed flow is then exposed to the work port and thus to the load sense port in the valve. From there the flow path divides and exposes the pump to load sense flow/pressure as well as the flow control spool in the valve you've actuated... which provides signal to open flow to the main spool and provide pressure/flow compensation. If the internal port between the shuttle and flow control spool is blocked, you may end up with the pump going to stroke and dead heading flow against the flow spool.... which will also happen is the flow spool is stuck. If you have a failure in the primary or secondary shuttles it will also dump that load sense flow to sump and thus you have nothing but crickets.
Determine first if you have stand-by pressure in the bank, then proceed to the load sense circuit.
You also need to make sure you have all of the spools back in correctly... they're easy to mix up, reverse, etc especially when there is a time gap from when you took it apart. A good blow gun with rubber tips is a good friend and bench test the ports on assembly... Don't ask how I know.

Rod

Active codes by definition cannot be cleared, however I'm not understanding how all of those tranny codes popped up while you were working on the remotes. I'm starting to think you have trouble with one or more electronic modules given the number of codes that have popped up.

Try intentionally setting another code by disconnecting the oil pressure or coolant temp sensor. See if codes for those pop up. If they don't, I'm thinking a call to Ag Express is in your future.
Ag Express

If everything was working previous to the remote work then I would be skeptical it is a module (although I've had stranger things happen.).

I would start by checking grounds, and harness connectors. Making sure all the pins are fully seated and clean. All your grounds are connected, clean and tight.

For every code you have like "inching pedal down" or "trans filter" trace the wiring diagram back to see which connector if any that those sensors/switches share.

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Yesterday, a nice man from Iowa that has lots of experience with these tractors contacted me. We tried to clear the codes to no avail. He suggested sending the dash, both modules, and the gear selector to AgExpress to be checked out and/or repaired. They left late yesterday.
One thing that I had forgotten to mention, we replaced both batteries before we restarted the tractor. The battery cables were a mess. I had new cables made. Crimp on ends, no bolt ons. Would any of this have caused a problem. Thanks again!

I really doubt that poor cable connections would cause random codes. Let us know what Ag Express finds.

Like Bern said if the codes are still active then you won't be able to clear them. So if the fault is legitimate or there is a wiring issue causing the fault you won't be able to clear it until it is fixed.

I'll be curious to see what Ag Express finds out as well.