From what I have found here and elsewhere. my tractor is a Frankenstein. Rear end has the casting on left side of: D4NN 4024A.

I got the tractor running and attempted to pull a shredder for the first time. All went perfect. Shredded about 2 acres. Raised and lowered the shredder many times just to get the feel of position vs draft control. Got low on fuel and decided to come in and park.

Went out to finish the shredding and 3pt doesn't lift. No noises or straining. Just nothing. Front end loader works as it should. Anyone here that can shed any light, it would be greatly appreciated.

I remember I checked and added a bit of hydraulic fluid shortly after purchase 6 months ago. Have not changed the filter, which is below the left foot pedals. Can't now remember which plug to pull to check fluid level. I remember you pull a plug and fill from below seat. When oil dribbles out the plug's hole, it's full.
 
(quoted from post at 14:11:57 12/26/22) From what I have found here and elsewhere. my tractor is a Frankenstein. Rear end has the casting on left side of: D4NN 4024A.

I got the tractor running and attempted to pull a shredder for the first time. All went perfect. Shredded about 2 acres. Raised and lowered the shredder many times just to get the feel of position vs draft control. Got low on fuel and decided to come in and park.

Went out to finish the shredding and 3pt doesn't lift. No noises or straining. Just nothing. Front end loader works as it should. Anyone here that can shed any light, it would be greatly appreciated.

I remember I checked and added a bit of hydraulic fluid shortly after purchase 6 months ago. Have not changed the filter, which is below the left foot pedals. Can't now remember which plug to pull to check fluid level. I remember you pull a plug and fill from below seat. When oil dribbles out the plug's hole, it's full.

What is your tractor supposed to be?

Does the loader have a front pump driven from the crankshaft or does the hydraulic power come from the tractor's internal system?
 
Not sure what it's supposed to be. Trans is yellow as is most of the tractor. It might be a 532. Trans has a cast D4NN 4024A on it. Engine is blue and was swapped in before I bought it.

Front end loader is run off a pump on the front of the crank.

3pt is run off the rear axle. Filter is under the left padal.
 
Sounds like something from the 4600 series with the filter under the left foot rest. Did it work properly when the weather was warmer and started having the problem after the temperatures dropped?
 
Don't think temp had anything to do with it. I am in South TX and outside of the last couple of days it's been in the near 70's.
 
The 532 was a Utility tractor in the 4600 series. It would have the double reduction rear axle with the wet inboard brakes with the 3 point pump in the right side of the rear axle center housing and hydraulic filter under the left floorboard, just like the 4600. The main difference was that it had a single piece non-adjustable front axle with double sided steering linkage,like the earlier 3400, while an ag chassis 4600 would have an adjustable width front axle with single sided steering linkage.

Just because the engine was replaced doesn't change anything about it other than perhaps the horsepower, if a different displacement engine was used.

Have you looked on the under side of the right side hood panel for a foil sticker? The model number unit number, and serial number would be there if the sticker is still there and is still legible. If not, look on the flat spot just above the starter for the numbers stamped there.
 
(quoted from post at 17:40:06 12/26/22) The 532 was a Utility tractor in the 4600 series. It would have the double reduction rear axle with the wet inboard brakes with the 3 point pump in the right side of the rear axle center housing and hydraulic filter under the left floorboard, just like the 4600. The main difference was that it had a single piece non-adjustable front axle with double sided steering linkage,like the earlier 3400, while an ag chassis 4600 would have an adjustable width front axle with single sided steering linkage.

Just because the engine was replaced doesn't change anything about it other than perhaps the horsepower, if a different displacement engine was used.

Have you looked on the under side of the right side hood panel for a foil sticker? The model number unit number, and serial number would be there if the sticker is still there and is still legible. If not, look on the flat spot just above the starter for the numbers stamped there.

Everything you said sounds correct. Solid front axle. Two steering pistons. Inboard brakes. Have never had hood installed yet. It's just in the pile of stuff the seller gave me. I'll go look under it to see if there is still a foil sticker.
 
DW114C is indeed a 532, with a diesel engine, independent 540 rpm PTO and an 8 speed transmission. The 3 point hydraulic system is identical to the 4600. The fact that the front end loader still works is completely irrelevant to your problem since it has its own hydraulic pump up font.

The 3 point lift simply stopping could have many different causes. It could be the unloader valve is stuck open, or the pump itself died, or the relief valve is stuck open, or one of the gears or shafts associated with driving the pump broke or had its splines sheared.

Does the PTO still work?
 
The rest of the sticker:
Tractor number: C488873
Model number: DW114C
Unit: 5M22B
Engine: 5K__A (not legible)
Transmission: 4A16B
Hyd. Pump: 5K27B
Rear Axle: 5K28B
Hyd. Lift: 5L20C
 
Sounds like it is possible that the PTO drive output shaft at the rear of the transmission might have sheared or had its splines stripped. That shaft drives the dual pump inside the center housing. Part of that pump supplies the power to the 3 point lift and the other part drives the hydraulic controls for the PTO, and it also supplies the power to the PTO itself when the hydraulic PTO clutch is engaged. Only way to know for sure would be to open it up. If you don't have one, get a Service Manual. A manual for a 4600 would be easier to find and less expensive than one for a 532, and the 3 point hydraulics and PTO are identical. That will have the proper troubleshooting steps to follow to diagnose and repair whatever is wrong.
 
I haven't figured out what the problem is yet. First thing I want to do is change the hydraulic oil in the rear end. I have the service manual and operators manual. Read them cover to cover but don't find the correct filter named.

It's a spin on filter under the left tread. No markings on it. Anyone here that can tell me?
 
Marvelous. Thank you. It's #78.

I don't have the parts book yet. Cheapest I have found is $87 and I don't wanna jump for that yet.
 
(quoted from post at 10:46:40 12/29/22) Marvelous. Thank you. It's #78.

I don't have the parts book yet. Cheapest I have found is $87 and I don't wanna jump for that yet.

It is online for free use, that's where I got the drawing for you.

Go to https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/default/

Select New Holland Agriculture.

Click on the Model Name button

Enter 532 in the search box above the button and click the search icon.

You should get a list with the 532 utility tractor as an option you can select. That will take you to the online parts catalog.
 
New hydraulic filter arrived late yesterday in the mail. I have 5 gallons of oil on hand to do a fluid change in rear end. Fluid is really low. I am hoping that is what caused PTO and 3PT to not function.
 

That tractor takes around 10 gallons or more to fill the rear axle, but 5 gallons should be enough to get the hydraulics working on level ground
 
My 3 cylinder 4000 takes about 8.25 gallons in the rear end, and that tractor should be similar. 5 Gallons may or may not be enough depending on what shape the o-ring on the pickup tube is in. Add 3 more gallons and then park it on a side hill with the right side down, and it should be able to prime itself even if the o-ring is in bad shape. If that works, and it starts having problems when parked on flat ground, the pickup tube o-ring needs to be replaced.
 
Hey destroked. I've got a little over 9 in it. Still nothing. Like sean said, it needs to prime. Not sure if I can prime it
manually.
 
If it has the factory blocking plate on top then you can try loosening the large hex head plug on that with the engine running to see if it will prime. Don't remove it completely, just loosen it to see if you get air or air mixed with fluid, and if so leave it loosened until only fluid comes out and tighten it back up.
 


mvphoto101042.png

Number 14 in the attached photo?

This post was edited by cjwilson78154 on 01/03/2023 at 04:41 am.
 
I tried loosening the large hex on the aux valve with the tractor running. No fluid. Moved the valve in and out. Still nothing.
 
(quoted from post at 19:52:59 01/02/23) My 3 cylinder 4000 takes about 8.25 gallons in the rear end, and that tractor should be similar. 5 Gallons may or may not be enough depending on what shape the o-ring on the pickup tube is in. Add 3 more gallons and then park it on a side hill with the right side down, and it should be able to prime itself even if the o-ring is in bad shape. If that works, and it starts having problems when parked on flat ground, the pickup tube o-ring needs to be replaced.

My 4000 s are same as yours, but 4600 has a larger pump and the moved the check plug up higher on the axle housing for more oil capacity
The 30 series with dip sticks hold 12 gallons
 
(quoted from post at 09:59:17 01/03/23) I tried loosening the large hex on the aux valve with the tractor running. No fluid. Moved the valve in and out. Still nothing.

The large hex bolt on the remote valve that you have does not serve the same purpose as the large hex bolt on the factory blocking plate, so you cannot bleed it that way. With that remote valve you might try loosening both connections to the hoses going to the rear remote and moving the control handle from the center position to see if you get air or air mixed with fluid coming out, and if so let it run like that until only fluid comes out, and then let the handle on the valve return to center and tighten up the hose connections.Then see if the 3 point lift might work. Since the PTO isn't engaging, it seems like something is damaged in the drive line for the PTO and pump, like the shaft splines are stripped, or the shaft itself is broken.
 
(quoted from post at 11:56:02 01/03/23) gotcha. Any way to see if something is damaged? Remove trans cover?

Try removing the round plate on the left side of the rear axle center housing and shine a light in there to see if you can see the shaft spinning when the engine is running. I'm not sure on that model, but the round plate might have the PTO engagement handle going through it.
 
(quoted from post at 06:16:28 01/03/23) Hey destroked. I've got a little over 9 in it. Still nothing. Like sean said, it needs to prime. Not sure if I can prime it
manually.

Your tractor is the next newer model from my 4000's but I had upgraded one of mine to the external filter like you have
I've own and worked on my oldest 4000 for over 30 years and have had the hydraulic system completely apart.
I've never had to bleed the pump to get it to start working, the oil level is high enough in the housing on yours to submerge the pump pickup port, so even if the o-ring is leaking it should pick up oil

The rear pto drive is a course 6 spline shaft like the shaft that sticks out the back, I've never seen one strip out
I recently stripped the fine splines out of the drive hub on my oldest 4000, but the terrible noise it now makes would defiantly get your attention
At the moment I'm not sure what your issue is but pull that side cover (after you've drained some of the fluid out) and check that gear.
 
I got the side cover off. Had to drain right at 5 gallons.

Can't see any damage. I also had a small magnet and got it right down to the bottom and found nothing with it.

With the cover off, started the engine and nothing spins.
 
Just needed to ask here, if it might be something simple I'm missing since this tractor is brand new to me? Trans gearshifts are both in neutral. It is supposed to still spin the shaft that enters the rear axle that I am seeing with the side cover off, correct? It looks like there are an upper shaft and a lower shaft. One is coming off the engine and should be spinning if the engine is running. The other is the drive shaft to the rear PTO and should only spin if I engage the arm on the left side of the seat.
 

The top shaft will only turn when the tractor is moving as it drives the rear axle
The bottom shaft should turn anytime the engine is running, the hydraulic clutch pack at the end of that shaft engages the pto when you flip the lever
 
And now that I look at my tractor, the only part that is blue is the tranny. So it's been replaced, but guessing the rest is original.
 

With the engine off reach in and see if you can turn the shaft by hand, if you can something is wrong
If there is a issue the problem is more likely up at the clutch
Which would still require a split

Check the numbers stamped into the transmission case on the right side behind the starter
See if the serial number stamped there is the same as the tag under the hood
That will tell you if it s had a trans swap
 
Well, I can't turn anything in there by hand. It's tight quarters just getting in there, but nothing spins or turns. Even with engine running, and working the clutch back and forth.
 
Just to post a minor update, I pulled the trans cover and couldn't see anything wrong there. Oil level is good and oil clear. I disconnected the bush hog and tried to spin the shaft at the back of the tractor. Nothing. Locked tight.

I'm starting to lean toward the clutch is locked up. I've called a couple of shops and they want a lot of money to split tractor and replace clutch. More than I paid for the tractor.

Anyone on this forum that lives in South Texas and would assist me with the tractor? I would pay you all the cold beverage of your choice you can drink.
 
Major update! I discovered it was the PTO Clutch brake that had locked. I pulled the side cover off the PTO Clutch brake assembly, removed the snap ring, washer and double spring and now the clutch spins. That was apparently enough to free it up.

My question now is whether or not my machine is built correctly. I can't get the piston out. It's jammed in there I think and won't budge. My service manual shows the assembly consisting of the housing, the piston, the guide and the snap ring. No mention of the inner and outer springs and the washer.


mvphoto101353.jpg


mvphoto101354.jpg


mvphoto101355.jpg
 
I was wondering if reassembly without the springs and engaging the pto might push the piston out. I need to get it out of there somehow. The seals are in need of replacing.
 
Update: I removed the hydraulic pump on the right side of the tractor. It sits in behind the right foot plate in the rear end.

The geared shaft that spins the hydraulic pump is there. It looks ok. I am able to spin it by hand with the tractor out of gear. If I start the tractor, the geared shaft does spin. It spins slowly, but maybe it's supposed to. Like 1 revolution every 10 seconds.

I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts.
 
(quoted from post at 16:08:28 01/26/23) Update: I removed the hydraulic pump on the right side of the tractor. It sits in behind the right foot plate in the rear end.

The geared shaft that spins the hydraulic pump is there. It looks ok. I am able to spin it by hand with the tractor out of gear. If I start the tractor, the geared shaft does spin. It spins slowly, but maybe it's supposed to. Like 1 revolution every 10 seconds.

I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts.

That s the shaft I was telling you about
It has a gear at the front that is driven by the pto input shaft
The pto input shaft is splines directly to a drive hub in the pressure plate
The clutch has no effect on the shaft and you should not be able to turn it by hand
 
(quoted from post at 17:08:28 01/26/23) Update: I removed the hydraulic pump on the right side of the tractor. It sits in behind the right foot plate in the rear end.

The geared shaft that spins the hydraulic pump is there. It looks ok. I am able to spin it by hand with the tractor out of gear. If I start the tractor, the geared shaft does spin. It spins slowly, but maybe it's supposed to. Like 1 revolution every 10 seconds.

I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts.

With the engine running, it should not be turning 1 revolution every 10 seconds. I am pretty sure that shaft should be turning at a much higher speed. 6 rpm is not near enough speed to drive that hydraulic pump.
 
(quoted from post at 19:55:09 01/26/23)
(quoted from post at 17:08:28 01/26/23) Update: I removed the hydraulic pump on the right side of the tractor. It sits in behind the right foot plate in the rear end.

The geared shaft that spins the hydraulic pump is there. It looks ok. I am able to spin it by hand with the tractor out of gear. If I start the tractor, the geared shaft does spin. It spins slowly, but maybe it's supposed to. Like 1 revolution every 10 seconds.

I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts.

With the engine running, it should not be turning 1 revolution every 10 seconds. I am pretty sure that shaft should be turning at a much higher speed. 6 rpm is not near enough speed to drive that hydraulic pump.

Here's an update:
I've split the tractor. Nothing damaged from what I see. I knew trans was replaced prior to my purchasing. Through research, I now know the trans that was installed is from a Ford 3610, while this is a 532. Similar, but different. The PTO input shaft as fitted now barely makes contact with the hub in the clutch. There is about 1/16th" overlap. This was enough to spin the PTO and get hydraulic power during test driving. But when I got into some heavy brush, the stress caused it to slip apart enough to lose contact. I've looked for a clutch that stands out more. It might exist but my search skills are lacking. I also searched for a longer PTO Input shaft. The PTO Input shaft in there now is 10 3/4 long. I've found what appears to be an identical shaft, except an inch longer, for a 4000 model. It's ordered. Hoping it gets here quickly and fits without tearing anything up. I'll post back what happens
 
I've installed the longer shaft. Seems perfect. Tractor is no longer separated. Progressing... But now my next question is regarding the lift cover.
Starting today to pull the lift cover to address the PTO brake. I was able to get the cover lifted by an inch, but it's hanging up on something. I don't know what. It's on the front, down in somewhere. What am I doing wrong. The back is free. All bolts removed and the front lifts an inch. Picture attached.
mvphoto104030.jpg


mvphoto104031.jpg
 

There is a small tube an inch or more back from the right front corner that sticks up into the lift top
That tube has probably lifted up with the lift top causing it to hang up
Using a pair of thin pliers work that tube back down into the rear axle housing and out of the lift top
Once it s out you can tilt the back of the lift top up enough to pull back as the lift cylinder clears the front of the axle housing

Tube is item 39 in the photo
mvphoto104034.jpg
 
That's what it was. I saw the tube, but I assumed incorrectly that since it raised up, it was going to keep coming. Couldn't get it out with pliers. I had to tap it down from above with an appropriately sized socket.

Thanks!
mvphoto104043.jpg


This post was edited by cjwilson78154 on 04/01/2023 at 10:07 am.
 
While I have the lift cover off, I thought it would be smart to look around just to see if my untrained eye saw anything amiss. I right away spotted that this assembly was disconnected on the far right in the picture. Supposed to be a circlip holding the rod to the pin. I will fish around in the oil on the bottom for it. Probably long gone so I'll replace with new...... After fishing around, no circlip in the oil.
mvphoto104046.jpg
 
Make sure that you reinstall that rear seat mounting stud properly. Otherwise the draft control won't work properly.
 

Good catch
There are certain linkage adjustments that should be checked while the top is off
I m more familiar with the older single lever lift tops but a it manual for you tractor should have the settings to make yours work properly
 
Not sure what you mean Sean? I guess I need to look through the Shop manual for installing the seat. I was assuming I just need to tighten down the 2 bolts I removed and that'd be good.
 
If they were both bolts then someone put things back together incorrectly at some time in the past. They were originally both studs. The front one threads into the top cover itself. The rear one goes through the top cover and threads into the rod that connects to the draft control spring and linkage. That rod being held in place by that stud serves as the anchor point for that linkage and is integral to the proper functioning of the draft control mode. Here is a linkage to the parts diagram for the top cover of the 4600, which is basically the top cover that you have. The front stud is number 10. The rear stud is number 11, and the rod that number 11 threads into is number 91:

Link to parts drawing for 3 cylinder 4000 hydraulic top cover
 

The extension of the stud prevents the, so called, plunger in the draft control linkage from rotating. The extension rides in a slot in the plunger. The rear stud screws into the lift cover like the front stud, and the extension has to be positioned in the slot.

This is for a 2000, same idea:

mvphoto104285.jpg


Plunger:

mvphoto104286.jpg


Rear stud:


mvphoto104287.jpg
 
Wow. Ok I'll make my way out there this morning and look at what I have. The lift cover is still up on the cherry picker so I have access to above and below. I know there is a bolt and a stud. The cherry picker is lifting from the hole where the bolt was.

Thanks Sean and Hacke.

This post was edited by cjwilson78154 on 04/08/2023 at 02:59 am.
 
I was of course wrong about there being a bolt and a stud. I think I was remembering someone else's posted pictures of their machine. Anyways, I have two threaded holes on my lift cover where the seat is secured.

From what I gather the front is merely there to secure the seat. But the rearmost one is part of the hydraulics linkage. When I look under the lift cover, I see the rod is not secured from above. I believe one of the ears that a pin would go through is missing. It simply heads out the back of the tractor.

What functions have I lost by not having this rod intact and attached to the missing stud?
 
So is the stud supposed to rest in the 1/4" tall groove on the plunger rod?

This post was edited by cjwilson78154 on 04/08/2023 at 08:01 am.
 
Thanks Hacke. I am attaching a picture showing what little I can see up inside the lift cover. It looks like there is not enough of the side rail left to capture the bottom of the stud. I'll find a new one. The hole in the picture is where the bottom of the sud comes through the lift cover. The rusty bit just below it is supposed to be the groove the stud rides in.
mvphoto104327.jpg
 
I am not familiar with details on this, to me, newer model. I found a schematic that I think is describing your equipment. Note that some parts for position control is omitted as it describes draft control usage:

mvphoto104329.jpg


Here is a link to a parts list:
https://spare.avspart.com/catalog/newholland/53002/23274/322924/

#42 is the part that is connected to the plunger, looks like this (the arm to the right, draft lever, is turned ~180 when assembled). The plunger sits in the clevis:

mvphoto104330.jpg
 
Sorry to everyone that was following this post. Life, work and finances derailed working on the 532 and posting any results here.

Tractor is now mostly put back together. It starts and runs. PTO shaft spins with the new shaft in the transmission. Yay. The first time I spun it, all good. 2nd time, it didn't want to stop after the arm was moved to disengage it. Is there an adjustment I can make?

I haven't tried to lift the 3pt arms yet.

Bucket seemed to go up and down ok with new hydraulic lines everywhere.

I have a pretty healthy power steering fluid leak on the steering shaft. It is happening right where the line threads in to the column. It's not cross threaded and it's as tight as I can get it.

And I have a drip of diesel right off the bottom of the tank. I had it off and soldered all the pin holes I found. Must have missed one.
 

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