960 head studs

pomester

Member
I bought someone else's project a few years ago. Two years ago I did an inframe overhaul. Reconditioned rods/new bearings, sleeves, pistons, full head rebuild. At the time I tried to get studs to replace the tired original head bolts, but they were out of stock and would not be available for at least a couple of months. I went ahead and put it back together with the original bolts.

I used the tractor lightly (it's basically my spare) and then at about 30 hours on the overhaul tilled and disked about 3 acres. The machine ran well, rings were seating, nothing like a fresh engine.

Then just driving across the farm, not working, it began to run poorly. No compression on #2 and #3 cylinders. Head gasket failure. I parked it away until this week when I had shop time to work on it.


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Deck is flat.

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$134 in US made nuts, washers, and studs from ARP - good stuff.

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Studs and new head gasket in position.

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Torqued to 70 ft/pounds in 4 increments using the prescribed pattern.

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Took the opportunity to install a new fan shroud. Old, cut up one would occasionally contact the fan.

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I got it running and up to operating temperature tonight. I will retorque the nuts, adjust the valves, button it up, and replace the gas tank and sheet metal tomorrow.

I have more projects in line...
 


I am a firm believer in ARPS studs. Which did you use the 7/16 or the 1/2? is your new gasket 7/16 or 1/2? I can see that the holes are approx. 1 mm larger than the studs. and that the gasket in that pic is positioned all the way to the rear of the range. I had a problem with this twenty years ago.
 
These are 7/16", it's an early engine.

I searched long and hard for a head gasket designed for 7/16" bolts, failed to find it. This gasket set was sold under the number I was looking for, and specified it was for the early engines, but it was not, 'universal' fit, just like everything else. If you have a source, I'd love to put a couple in stock.

I centered this gasket as well as I could before placing the head. The studs are nice for this compared to bolts because you are not sliding the head around trying to find the bolt holes. I made a couple of threaded pins the last time around to guide the placement of the head which help, but this is much better. Picture from two years ago.



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(quoted from post at 09:49:58 01/04/23) These are 7/16", it's an early engine.

I searched long and hard for a head gasket designed for 7/16" bolts, failed to find it. This gasket set was sold under the number I was looking for, and specified it was for the early engines, but it was not, 'universal' fit, just like everything else. If you have a source, I'd love to put a couple in stock.

I centered this gasket as well as I could before placing the head. The studs are nice for this compared to bolts because you are not sliding the head around trying to find the bolt holes. I made a couple of threaded pins the last time around to guide the placement of the head which help, but this is much better. Picture from two years ago.



mvphoto101079.jpg


As you posted "universal fit" when I had the problem with my 960 it was done by a "high dollar" racing engine shop. The gasket didn't fail, instead the loose fit allowed one sleeve to come free and move up and down with the piston. They were somewhat embarressed and gave me a e valve grind kit no charge.
 
Your host here on YT, in their tractor part section, shows both 7/16 and 1/2 head bolt applications!
 
Here is where the failed head gasket came from. I don't blame the gasket for failure, I believe it to be the tired head bolts, I guess we'll see whether this iteration lasts....

Point being, vendors sell 'gasket set for 7/16" engine' and the head gasket is the same as for the the 1/2" engine. There only seems to be one manufactured anymore. I guess I/we should be thankful there are parts available for 60+ year old machines.
 

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