Identification help please

Ahkhira · Jan 1, 2023

Hello all,

I recently acquired a couple of antique Ford tractors. Sadly, I have almost no history on these tractors, as the owner passed on and I pulled them out of the field just before the property was foreclosed on.

I THINK I have a 1953 NAA Jubilee, but a couple things seem off to me. It took forever to find the serial number because it was under several layers of blue paint. I know it's not supposed to be blue.

My internet browsing tells me that the serial number is supposed to start and end with a diamond. I can only see a diamond at the end of the serial number. If I can read the number correctly, it says NAA 74878. If the article I read is correct, that makes it a 1953.

That doesn't match the hood emblem. It's wearing a hood emblem from what the same article says is 1954. The tractor does, however, have the remains of what was the toolbox under the left running board. It's long rotted off. This tractor also came home wearing front bucket loader, a counterweight, and tire chains. It's been converted to a 12 volt system. I'm not sure what else has been changed over it's life.

So I'm confused. Can anyone more experienced than I am tell me what I have here? I know the photos are BAD and the loader is in the way, but the tractor runs (it drove home under it's own power) and I'd like to put it to use and give it some TLC. This tractor has indeed seen much better days, but I think I can give it new life here on my small homestead.

Tractor #2 is some kind of 8N, and that will be it's own post. It isn't running and I dragged it home with my Rav4. It's a mess.

(Edited to include the photos I could get. I'm sorry, it's late, it's dark, and I'm a mess. I can get more pictures tomorrow.)

Many thanks to those that can assist.

Happy New Year,
Khi

This post was edited by Ahkhira on 01/01/2023 at 03:34 pm.

Fordfarmer · Jan 1, 2023

My information shows 1954 production
starting at #77475, so you have a late
1953 model. The nose badge (or the whole
hood... it is a loader tractor, after all)
has been changed out at some point.

Ahkhira · Jan 1, 2023

Thank you very much! I'll keep that in mind as I either source old parts or purchase replicas. For now, I'm just going to try and get her running properly again.

This little tractor really surprised me. I wasn't expecting to get it started, but it started up and ran. I even caught a mouse nest on top of the manifold on fire, but she came the 3 miles home under her own power, albeit dripping oil and hydraulic fluid the whole time.

8N's are pretty common in my area, but Jubilees are not. I've only seen one other. I almost didn't go after these two, but now I'm really happy I did.

Thanks again, and enjoy your New Year.
~Khi

KCTractors · Jan 1, 2023

I believe that the emblem is correct for a 1954 NAA tractor.

Ahkhira · Jan 1, 2023

(quoted from post at 22:40:26 01/01/23) I believe that the emblem is correct for a 1954 NAA tractor.

Thank you, that's what I thought.

It seems that I have the wrong emblem on this machine.

~Khi

sotxbill · Jan 2, 2023

wagner loader maybe???

Ahkhira · Jan 2, 2023

(quoted from post at 11:33:38 01/02/23) wagner loader maybe???

I honestly don't know. I'm looking to identify this too.

I'm shocked that it worked. It's in poor condition and it's leaking from every orifice. I'm lucky that I live very close to a place that rebuilds hydraulic hoses! They were wonderful when my previous junky Massey Ferguson broke down.

This loader will have to come off. I'm not really looking forward to that chore. I've never removed a loader, but it can't be avoided. The loader will get it's own post eventually, as I'm hoping that someone can identify it and might know where I can find a manual for it.

One thing is for sure, while the loader is off, the tractor is getting a properly done 12v conversion, new belt, and new radiator. If the loader doesn't fight me too much, it will be thoroughly de-greased, rebuilt, and painted. Hopefully it can be put back to work in the horse barn and maybe move some snow.

Cheers,
~Khi

docmirror · Jan 3, 2023

Doubt that's a Wagner loader. I've had 3 of them, and none look quite like that. No matter, getting it on and off is the same.

I wrote this a few years ago for a guy who was taking off a Wagner, I've done it several times, the steps are the same:

8N loader install/removal
1. Remove the bucket. This is not req, but you'll be glad you did
2. Chainfall or come-a-long over a beam at least 11' off the ground.
3. Wrap good chain around the bullnose pipe, and the rear pivot pipe in the center. Roll tractor under the beam. The tractor will roll backward from the loader, leave room behind.
4. The equilibrium point is about 23-25" from the front edge of the rear cross pivot point, depending on model(no bucket), set the tractor under the lift chain in that location.
5. Arrange chain safely on chainfall or come-a-long, and take up slack. Leave very slight tension on chain.
6. Remove two 1/2" bolts from lovejoy coupler behind front pump, drive bolts out of the coupling.
7. Remove 9/16" bolt from center plate that holds king pin in place. Loosen any bolts, usually one on each side of center mount plate. Do not remove yet.
8. Move to rear attach. For Wagner, remove fender mount bolts and remove fenders left and right. For other loaders, remove rear attach method from loader to tractor each side. On last bolt, note if the loader dips or rises with the bolt removed.
9. If the rear of the loader dipped down a bit, put more tension on the lift chain. If it popped up a bit, put less tension on the lift chain. Try to keep the rear loader mount close to the original orientation to tractor.
10. Check all rear attach loose and removed. Return to front of loader.
11. Support the two loader arms so they cannot swing down and injure you if the loader tips forward. I use saw horse with a small loop of chain on each.
12. Remove last two 1/2 or 9/16" bolts from center mount plate. The loader will shift when the last bolt is removed.
13. Raise the loader with chainfall or come-a-long approx 9-13" depending on the way the loader tips. If it tips backward a lot, may have to add weight to the front forks to load it forward.
14. Tractor in N, steering somewhat centered, roll tractor back, checking clearance of rear loader arms flange and steering arms. Lift and turn loader as needed to clear axle.

Install tips: When tractor is under loader, start with the rear loader plate bolts first. Do not tighten fully, just get a bolt in each side, and leave it loose to adjust front. Use chainfall or come-a-long to position loader front center plate holes just above the tractor bolt hole. When installing bolts, pull down on the side you are working while lining up the two holes for bolts. A 1/2" taper punch will be helpful to align holes. Rest of job is reverse of above.

This post was edited by docmirror on 01/03/2023 at 08:54 pm.

Ahkhira · Jan 4, 2023

(quoted from post at 00:53:00 01/04/23) Doubt that's a Wagner loader. I've had 3 of them, and none look quite like that. No matter, getting it on and off is the same.

I wrote this a few years ago for a guy who was taking off a Wagner, I've done it several times, the steps are the same:

8N loader install/removal
1. Remove the bucket. This is not req, but you'll be glad you did
2. Chainfall or come-a-long over a beam at least 11' off the ground.
3. Wrap good chain around the bullnose pipe, and the rear pivot pipe in the center. Roll tractor under the beam. The tractor will roll backward from the loader, leave room behind.
4. The equilibrium point is about 23-25" from the front edge of the rear cross pivot point, depending on model(no bucket), set the tractor under the lift chain in that location.
5. Arrange chain safely on chainfall or come-a-long, and take up slack. Leave very slight tension on chain.
6. Remove two 1/2" bolts from lovejoy coupler behind front pump, drive bolts out of the coupling.
7. Remove 9/16" bolt from center plate that holds king pin in place. Loosen any bolts, usually one on each side of center mount plate. Do not remove yet.
8. Move to rear attach. For Wagner, remove fender mount bolts and remove fenders left and right. For other loaders, remove rear attach method from loader to tractor each side. On last bolt, note if the loader dips or rises with the bolt removed.
9. If the rear of the loader dipped down a bit, put more tension on the lift chain. If it popped up a bit, put less tension on the lift chain. Try to keep the rear loader mount close to the original orientation to tractor.
10. Check all rear attach loose and removed. Return to front of loader.
11. Support the two loader arms so they cannot swing down and injure you if the loader tips forward. I use saw horse with a small loop of chain on each.
12. Remove last two 1/2 or 9/16" bolts from center mount plate. The loader will shift when the last bolt is removed.
13. Raise the loader with chainfall or come-a-long approx 9-13" depending on the way the loader tips. If it tips backward a lot, may have to add weight to the front forks to load it forward.
14. Tractor in N, steering somewhat centered, roll tractor back, checking clearance of rear loader arms flange and steering arms. Lift and turn loader as needed to clear axle.

Install tips: When tractor is under loader, start with the rear loader plate bolts first. Do not tighten fully, just get a bolt in each side, and leave it loose to adjust front. Use chainfall or come-a-long to position loader front center plate holes just above the tractor bolt hole. When installing bolts, pull down on the side you are working while lining up the two holes for bolts. A 1/2" taper punch will be helpful to align holes. Rest of job is reverse of above.

This post was edited by docmirror on 01/03/2023 at 08:54 pm.

Thank you so much for the advice! I'm sure that it will make this chore so much easier.

Identification help please

Ahkhira

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Fordfarmer

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Ahkhira

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KCTractors

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Ahkhira

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sotxbill

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Ahkhira

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docmirror

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Ahkhira

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