801 (861) Powermaster

Hello,

I believe I have a 1958-1962 Ford 801 Powermaster. I m new to tractors and the tractor was deserted on family property and we are in the process of getting it up and running. VIN # is near impossible to identify due to battery acid or grinder, hard to say for sure. After days of research, I think I have a 861. The tractor is a 5 speed, live PTO and has the 172 Diesel motor. So! Tons of questions but for starters. Can someone simply tell me how the manifold glow plugs are wired. Current condition is two plugs with a jumper wire connecting the plugs. Then a terminal with a corroded off wire. There is no other wire to trace back to the corroded terminal so I have no idea where the manifold heaters get power from. Through research I think it would go up to the push button bc it needs to be pressed 20-30 seconds prior to starting the tractor. We have been able to get the motor to turn over but won t fire and start. I assume the manifold heaters are a MUST in order for a successful start? The tractor last ran 6 years ago and prior to that 10-15 minute use, had not been started in 10 years. Also, suggestions on where to get new wiring or all new harness for this tractor? All the wiring is clearly in bad shape.

Thank You,

Collin

Being Diesel it is an 801. You need not be concerned about numbers. Yes the jumper is correct. Power gets to the plugs by way of a push button on the left under the steering wheel, through a relay that is much like the starter solenoid. Mine needs no preheat above 40 degrees. It is dependent on the injection pump making adequate pressure. My two 50s Fords have the original wiring with just a few repairs, You can try this site for parts as well as CNH, and Dennis Carpenter.

If it sets that long, the diesel fuel may have grown algae,
clogging up your filters and injection pump. Have you cracked
the injectors and checked to see if you are getting fuel past the
pump?

We are fortunate to have a number of diesel fuel system experts
on this site that can get you pointed in the right direction.
YouTube has a number of videos on that engine and pump from
various models too. Would not recommend tearing into the
pump unless you are certified to do so.

Great tractor you have, the sound of the idle is music

The glow plugs are actually manifold pre-heaters. If your temps are warmer than 40-50 degrees, they shouldn't be needed. The pre-heater that I use is a Champion CH3. Do not combine the use of the pre-heaters with ether (starting fluid). The pre-heaters are operated through a solenoid mounted under the dash. I don't have a p/n for that, but I imagine it's the same as the starter solenoid, which is NAPA p/n ST-83 or S.61049

It is very unlikely that after sitting that long the pump and injectors will be good. However, to test this, drain all of the old fuel out of the system and replace it with a couple of gallons of new fuel.

Clean the fuel filter base and replace the fuel filter (Napa p/n 3165). Verify that you have fuel flow through the fuel filter using the drain plug at the bottom of the fuel filter base.

Then check that you have flow into the pump by removing the small cover (held by 2 screws) that covers the fuel pump timing marks. There should be a metal plate and a rubber seal behind this plate. Fuel should start to leak out as a steady trickle once you remove this plate. If you have good flow, replace the seal and cover.

The next step will be to see if the pump is actually pumping. You will need to slightly loosen the injector lines at their entry into the block. Do this on all 4 lines. Turn the engine over. This may take quite a while. Have a good battery and your battery charger handy. You will get spurts of fuel to spray out if the pump is pumping. Tighten down each line if you get a spurt of fuel. However, this does not guarantee that the pump is cracking the injectors. If I recall correctly, they need around 2700psi to crack (open) them. If you are getting some smoke, then you are getting fuel into the cylinders. If not, your next steps will probably be to get your pump and injectors rebuilt.

If that is your next step, I recommend purchasing the correct repair manuals from this site before proceeding. Report back with your progress.

Colin, MN

Thank you all very much for the outstanding information. It sounds like I need to check on that pump and clean up the fuel system. I ll start with that and then attempt to wire the preheaters. Temperatures were in the 50 s and 60 s while trying to start so I doubt the plugs would ve made a difference. I m thinking the fuel system is the culprit. Does anybody have a part # or link to a wire harness that would include all new wiring? I d like to just rewire it all while I m doing the manifold preheaters.

(quoted from post at 09:32:53 12/05/22)
Thank you all very much for the outstanding information. It sounds like I need to check on that pump and clean up the fuel system. I ll start with that and then attempt to wire the preheaters. Temperatures were in the 50 s and 60 s while trying to start so I doubt the plugs would ve made a difference. I m thinking the fuel system is the culprit. Does anybody have a part # or link to a wire harness that would include all new wiring? I d like to just rewire it all while I m doing the manifold preheaters.

Click to expand...

You can oder it right here on this site.

In my experience with my two Powermaster Diesels, the electrical system has very little to do with the engine firing (unless cold) These things start uneasy if fuel is flowing.