4000 Diesel?

LarryBud

Member
I'm still in my search for dedicated mowing tractor. I had a few that looked good but fell through at the end.

A 4000 with new rubber all around and rebuilt injectors just came up. It also has been prettied up with new seat, steering wheel, dash panel and a pretty nice looking paint job / graphics. Looks new.

I've been advised to go gas vs diesel for home maintenance / repair. Top line thoughts on this machine? It's at the top of my price range.
 


Probably the biggest thing is how does it start hot or cold. If it starts right up at 40 degrees without preheat, and at 80 degrees with it hot from working after being shutoff for 5 min for refuel. If it does both well the injection pump is probably healthy and the engine is probably good internally. If not you should dig into the pump more. It is $750 for a rebuild. With a good pump a diesel is waaaaay better than a gas for maint. and repair. You could supply a little more detail because the 4000 encompasses a lot of different versions over a lot of years.
 
Is it a 3 or 4 cylinder 4000? If it is a 4 cylinder, I would go with a gasser, as that engine was designed to be a gasser and was converted to diesel as an after thought. The 3 cylinder diesels were designed to be diesel engines from the ground up, so I wouldn't hesitate to go with a diesel 3 cylinder, even for home use. If it's running good, just perform all of the routine maintenance and use a good diesel additive and it shouldn't be a problem.
 
For me I prefer a gas over diesel because I don't like the smell of the diesel fumes that linger for days inside my shop. Gasoline is cheaper than highway diesel. Here you have to buy at least 1000 gal before the fuel truck will deliver.

My snow pusher.

cvphoto141374.jpg
 
Well I have never had the lingering diesel smell for days in my buildings. I just start them up drive them out put them back in and shut them off. They only run in my building for a few short minutes. Yes gas is cheaper than diesel but my diesel tractors use far less fuel than my gas tractors so at the least it's a wash on fuel cost. I guess I am just a diesel guy. My diesels are 70's and 90's vintage. I find they are less maintenance and less problematic than an old gas tractor. I have 2 gas tractors and want to sell one as soon as I find the same model in a diesel.
 
(quoted from post at 19:00:02 11/23/22) Just curious but what was the
reasoning that you should go gas
instead of diesel for home
maintenance?

As it was explained to me.... If you need to rebuild the Carb or change the points, that's something I, a shade tree mechanic can do. If a diesel is not running well, it's trip to the shop for expertise and proper equipment.

My skill set allows for regular maintenance and change out the bolt on parts but I'm not very sophisticated in repairs.

I want a tractor that will start when needed, can mow with a 6-7' brush hog mower and hopefully, not leak fluids all over my floor.

I have flat but potholed terrain so something that won't beat the tar out of me for a ride would be a bonus. I've zeroed in on the Fords as they seem to be plentiful and at a decent price. I'm open for suggestions.
 
(quoted from post at 18:27:36 11/23/22) Is it a 3 or 4 cylinder 4000? If it is a 4 cylinder, I would go with a gasser, as that engine was designed to be a gasser and was converted to diesel as an after thought. The 3 cylinder diesels were designed to be diesel engines from the ground up, so I wouldn't hesitate to go with a diesel 3 cylinder, even for home use. If it's running good, just perform all of the routine maintenance and use a good diesel additive and it shouldn't be a problem.

It's a 3 cylinder. The grill looks to be from the newest version but the lights are located in the grill and down low. Not sure what that means as to the model.
 
Agree Sean.
I would take a gasser in either a 3
cylinder or 4 cylinder but would not want a
4 cylinder diesel.
Larry Bud,
Before you pull the trigger on any tractor
take some photos of it.
Insist that the seller doesn't have it
warmed up when you get there. You want to
see it start cold.
Get some good close ups of the various
parts and some over-all pictures.
A dozen or more. Take some of the exhaust
when it first starts.
If you don't know how to post them email me
and I will post them. A hundred sets of
sharp eyes here will scrutinize it for
flaws.
We want you to get a good tractor.
 
The 3 cyl tractors were built in three
locations.
Michigan, USA, Basildon, England and
Antwerp, Belgium.
The US tractors had the lights on the sides
of the nose whereas the Basildon and
Antwerp tractors had the lights in the
grill.
There a a few other minor differences but
are all fundamentally the same machine.
I have 3 of those tractors - all are
diesels but I have had several gassers too
and like/trust them just as well.
Again, you want to see it start cold.
 
It's a 3 cylinder. The grill looks to be from the newest version but the lights are located in the grill and down low. Not sure what that means as to the model.

Lights in the grill just means that it was assembled at one of the European assembly plants. The internals of the engine, trans, hydraulics and rear axle are the same. The European ones also had some extra lighting and wiring, and possibly a hand brake.

Another rare "feature" is if it was made for the German market originally, and if it has what looks like an 8 speed transmission, then it really might be a 7 speed, which is the 8 speed with a mechanical interlock inside that prevents shifting into 4th/8th when the range selector is in high range.

This post was edited by Sean in PA on 11/24/2022 at 04:53 am.
 
In addition to what others are saying, check out the operation of the PTO.

I have a 4000 like you're describing. The tractor you're looking at may have live PTO...2 stage clutch runs it.
But the independent PTO (hydraulically engaged) on mine doesn't want to shut off all the way.

My understanding (after checking pressures and brake pawl) is the pto clutch plates are warped.

It's not bad in the summer, it will stop with a load on it ...think haybine or tedder.
But in the winter when the oil is thicker I can't stop the pto even with a 2x4 wedged between the drawbar and the pto shaft.

I've been living with it, I don't use the tractor in the winter. Gets worse I'll have to do a split and repair.

Don't want to make you nervous...they are really great tractors. But they are 50 years old....and as others have said, we want you to get a good one.

BTW, the new rubber is worth some $$$
 
(quoted from post at 19:20:02 11/23/22) For me I prefer a gas over diesel because I don't like the smell of the diesel fumes that linger for days inside my shop. Gasoline is cheaper than highway diesel. Here you have to buy at least 1000 gal before the fuel truck will deliver.

My snow pusher.

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto141374.jpg>

Very Nice!!
 
Buy what makes you happy... but I'll put the gas vs diesel maintenance thing to you like this.... You may be able to rebuild the
carb and change the plugs/wires/points/condenser yourself... and you WILL vs 3 cylinder diesel.... you may not feel up to
pump/injector repair but chances are if it's in good working order now and you change filters now and then and keep clean fuel in
it.... YOU WILL NEVER GO NEAR A PUMP/Injectors. If you dump water in it... you know the saying.. play stupid games, win stupid
prizes.
Personally I'd go with the diesel most times unless you're talking trucks and a 6L power joke is on offer... then I'd go with gas.

Rod
 

I will add that I went completely through the engine in my 4000 in 2000, 5 years ago the top gasket on the injection pump started leaking, it presently has an injector leaking down and I need to pull them all to be rebuilt
It basically went 17 years as my primary use tractor with nothing more than basic oil and filter changes
I don t think a gas model would be any easier to maintain
Batteries and starters have been my biggest maintenance issues if you can call 6 batteries and 4 starters a issue over the past 30 years I ve owned it
 

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