No Spark NAA

RMGeorge

Member
Have all new wiring and ignition components on the NAA I’m restoring. New 12 volt internally resisted coil. Twelve volts all the way to the points. No spark at plugs, none. Replaced condenser…no change. Replaced rotor and distributor…no change. Plugs and points are set to correct gap. Why no spark? I’m stumped.
Have not tried different coil.

This post was edited by RMGeorge on 11/19/2022 at 07:57 pm.
 
Simple no test tools need trouble shooting that a well train cave man can do. Pull the distributor cap rotor and dust cover. With the points closed and ignition off run a hot wire from the non-ground side of the battery to the ignition side of the coil. Touch the wire to the coil and then back off a number of times. You should get a small spark. Next turn the engine so the points are open. Do the same with the wire. This time you should not get a spark. If you get a spark when open you have a short. If no spark when closed the points need cleaned
 
I see you posted that you have 12 volts all the way to the points. Also, I am guessing you replaced the distributor cap, not the distributor.

Hook a test light to ground and put the point on the coil post that the wire going to the distributor attaches to (do not disconnect the wire from the coil or distributor for this test). When you crank the engine over, does the light flash? It should flash on and off as the points open and close.

Did you try polishing the point contacts with some clean card stock or a folded-up dollar bill? Sometimes that is all it takes to remove the insulating film that forms on them. Having 12 volts all the way to the points is a sign of that problem if you are seeing 12 volts when the points are closed.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 11/20/2022 at 02:03 pm.
 
(quoted from post at 06:39:57 11/20/22) I see you posted that you have 12 volts all the way to the points. Also, I am guessing you replaced the distributor cap, not the distributor.

Hook a test light to ground and put the point on the coil post that the wire going to the distributor attaches to (do not disconnect the wire from the coil or distributor for this test). When you crank the engine over, does the light flash? It should flash on and off as the points open and close.

Did you try polishing the point contacts with some clean card stock or a folded-up dollar bill? Sometimes that is all it takes to remove the insulating film that forms on them. Having 12 volts all the way to the points is a sign of that problem if you are seeing 12 volts when the points are closed.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 11/20/2022 at 02:03 pm.


Tractor is running now. First start in 12 years. Cleaning the new points with a dollar bill did the trick. Thanks to all for the help!
 
(quoted from post at 22:46:34 11/20/22)
(quoted from post at 06:39:57 11/20/22) I see you posted that you have 12 volts all the way to the points. Also, I am guessing you replaced the distributor cap, not the distributor.

Hook a test light to ground and put the point on the coil post that the wire going to the distributor attaches to (do not disconnect the wire from the coil or distributor for this test). When you crank the engine over, does the light flash? It should flash on and off as the points open and close.

Did you try polishing the point contacts with some clean card stock or a folded-up dollar bill? Sometimes that is all it takes to remove the insulating film that forms on them. Having 12 volts all the way to the points is a sign of that problem if you are seeing 12 volts when the points are closed.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 11/20/2022 at 02:03 pm.


Tractor is running now. First start in 12 years. Cleaning the new points with a dollar bill did the trick. Thanks to all for the help!

Good to hear it started. Enjoy it.
 

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