4000 - Different Builds?

LarryBud

Member
I'm seeing the 3 different builds of the 4000 offered up for sale.

Is there a winner of the three? I would assume newer is better but they typically come with a higher price tag. I thinking a gasser ( so I can work on it myself ) and need power steering.

How much better is a 75 vs a 62 assuming the condition is the same?

Thanks,

LB
 
Only 2 builds that I know of though there
were industrial derivatives of each.
The 1962-64 four cylinder 4000 was a
continuation of the 800/801 built from 1955
onward.
Then from 1965 to 75 Ford built the three
cylinder 4000 which was a completely
different tractor.
Is one better?
Kinda depends on your needs.
They were both good machines.
The four cylinder model is lighter,
smaller, more nimble and has a lot of
horsepower for its size.
The three cylinder has more horsepower,
greater longevity, more gears and WAY
better brakes but is considerably larger,
longer, heavier.
 

I believe I read that the 3 cyl 4000 had two variants at least for the SOS, with the first year or so being an early problematic version and the later years a different version with fewer issues.
 
Tractordata.com list them as:
62-65
65-67
68-75

I can see the frame changes with the 65 year model and you're explanation of the 4 cyl vs the 3 cyl was very helpful. I was starting to put the pieces together and you cleared it up.

I need to mow 18 acres several times a year for the next few years and then occasionally thereafter. I'm looking for a dedicated mower. I sounds like the older version may meet my needs.
 
Here is how I see it...

The 801 series tractors (1958 - 1961) were slightly improved to make the first of the 4000 series (1962 - 1965). Same(ish) configuration and 2.8 liter 4
cylinder engine. Still had dry drum brakes. No diff lock available. Power steering optional. PTO could be transmission, live, or independent, depending on
transmission selection.

The first of the whole new 4000 series was 1965 - 1967, with the 3 cylinder engine. (Strong) wet disc brakes. Power steering optional (Tractordata.com infers it
was standard... Others here might know better). Uncertain on diff lock availability. Much bigger chassis than previous model.

These tractors were further improved for 1968 - 1975. Diff lock was an option. Quick way to tell these from earlier model is no louvers on the side of the hood
(assuming tin is original). The 4000SU option offers these upgraded options in a smaller chassis, not much larger than 1958 model.

For cruising around, I prefer the earlier model (we have a 1958 641). For serious work, I prefer the last of the models (we have a 1973 4000SU). As far a
pricing, I see them all over the map for all of these models. I think it matters most what you want to do with the tractor, and choose from there. Also be
careful that you get what you think you are buying. There has been a lot of swapping of tin, grills, engines, transmissions, etc. over the past 50 years. Look
for serial numbers and castings date codes that line up.

Good luck!
 
You may want to consider the 3000 series as well, if you're considering an early 4000. No wet brakes, but many improvements over the older tractors IMO.
 
Tractordata.com list them as:
62-65
65-67
68-75

Actually, the major date ranges for the '65-'75 4000s was 1/1/65 through 3/31/68 and 4/1/1968 through 12/12/1975. Tractordata plays it fast and loose with the facts. What they call the the 65-67 and 68-75 4000's were all 3 cylinder tractors.

The only main difference between the 65-67 and 68-75 4000 was that the 65-67 models with the gasoline engines had a displacement of 192 ci (4.2 bore x 4.2 stroke), while the '68-'75 gassers had a 201 ci displacement (4.4 bore x 4.4 stroke). The diesels for the entire '65-'75 run had the 201 ci displacement. The 192 gassers had a few less hp than the later 201 ci gassers, but only by a couple of hp.

The other changes made at the same time were cosmetic, in terms of the sheet metal and grill.

There were other changes along the way, but not on the 4/1/1968 date where the above changes were made. They changed the style of power steering pump on 10/1/1968. Then they changed the power steering system and removed the external cylinder on the left side and replaced it with a cylinder inside the steering column on 04/01/1970.

Those are the major changes in the 3 cylinder 4000s that I can think of off the top of my head. There are probably others.
 
(quoted from post at 09:36:48 11/17/22)
Tractordata.com list them as:
62-65
65-67
68-75

Actually, the major date ranges for the '65-'75 4000s was 1/1/65 through 3/31/68 and 4/1/1968 through 12/12/1975. Tractordata plays it fast and loose with the facts. What they call the the 65-67 and 68-75 4000's were all 3 cylinder tractors.

The only main difference between the 65-67 and 68-75 4000 was that the 65-67 models with the gasoline engines had a displacement of 192 ci (4.2 bore x 4.2 stroke), while the '68-'75 gassers had a 201 ci displacement (4.4 bore x 4.4 stroke). The diesels for the entire '65-'75 run had the 201 ci displacement. The 192 gassers had a few less hp than the later 201 ci gassers, but only by a couple of hp.

The other changes made at the same time were cosmetic, in terms of the sheet metal and grill.

There were other changes along the way, but not on the 4/1/1968 date where the above changes were made. They changed the style of power steering pump on 10/1/1968. Then they changed the power steering system and removed the external cylinder on the left side and replaced it with a cylinder inside the steering column on 04/01/1970.

Those are the major changes in the 3 cylinder 4000s that I can think of off the top of my head. There are probably others.

This post solidifies your designation as a " Tractor Guru ". Thanks you for sharing your knowlwdge.
 
(quoted from post at 10:11:13 11/17/22)

I need to mow 18 acres several times a year for the next few years and then occasionally thereafter. I'm looking for a dedicated mower. I sounds like the older version may meet my needs.

Are you looking at mowing with a finish mower to make it look like a big lawn, or a brush hog type rotary mower to keep the grass and weeds knocked down

A 63/64 4000 will handle a 6 ft finish mower or light 6 ft rotary mower, for a 6 ft heavy duty mower you ll need weights on the front as these models were light on the front and in heavy grass your reaching the limits of its hp
In weight and size comparison the 3000 is more equal to the older 801/4000 models
The 4000SU is the best choice for a small nimble tractor with better features of the larger 4000 all purpose like wet disc brakes and fully independent pto
The 4000 all purpose is larger, heavier and a more stable platform for handling larger mowers

Here s a hp comparison
42 hp - 63/64 4000, gas engine is the best choice for this model
40 hp - 3000
46 hp - 65/mid 68 4000
52 hp - mid 68/75 4000
For the 65/later models I think the diesel engine is the better choice, less maintenance and less fuel usage

For close quarters work with a 3 point mower the 63/64 4000, 3000 and 4000SU are all good choices
For getting a lot of work done with a larger trailed mower the mid 68/75 4000 would be my choice

For medium size grass and brush I pull a 10 ft trailed rotary mower with my 69 4000 All purpose , I have a lot of hills in my area and the all purpose handles that mower better than my 72 4000SU
 
I've owned and mowed with both 4 and 3 cylinder 4000 models and much prefer the older 4 cylinder model for mowing duty.

The 4 cylinder model is smaller, lighter, more maneuverable, has a much lower center of gravity, and parts are more readily available and generally less expensive.

It also has as much PTO HP as do the 67-early 68 three cylinder models.
 
" Are you looking at mowing with a finish mower to make it look like a big lawn, or a brush hog type rotary mower to keep the grass and weeds knocked down "

I'll be mowing the weeds down with a rotary mower. It shouldn't be too tough of a job if I stay after it. Of course, I'm sure I'll get behind sometimes.

Thanks for all of the feedback.
 
(quoted from post at 21:58:33 11/18/22) " Are you looking at mowing with a finish mower to make it look like a big lawn, or a brush hog type rotary mower to keep the grass and weeds knocked down "

I'll be mowing the weeds down with a rotary mower. It shouldn't be too tough of a job if I stay after it. Of course, I'm sure I'll get behind sometimes.

Thanks for all of the feedback.

If the weeds and brush get too high for the tractor in a single swath, you can take 1/2, or even 1/3 of a swath at a time for those times when you haven't kept up.
 

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