Ford 4000 - Needs Electrical Rehab

LarryBud

Member
I think I know the answer here but I thought I'd see what you all think.

I'm in search of ~50 HP tractor to mostly use for mowing. The 4000 looks like a good candidate. There is a gasser locally where
the current owner has installed an alternator to replace the generator but has not completed the wiring. None of the gauges
currently work. He got the tractor from a neighbor and does not have a good history ( had been sitting ). He claims it runs well
and via pictures, it looks very nice as far as the sheet metal, tires and overall appearance.

Assuming the wiring needs a complete redo and knowing I likely won't be able to do it myself is there any estimate on the potential
problems and cost? I can probably buy it for about $2800. Deal or keep looking?
 
Which 4000 is it? There were two different 4000 models. The earlier, 1961-1964 4000, had a 4 cylinder engine and the later, 1965-1975 4000, had a 3 cylinder engine.

Is that 50 hp required at the engine or the PTO? Both the 3 and 4 cylinder 4000 had less than 45 hp at the PTO.

What region of the country are you in? $2800.00 is a good price for a running 4 cylinder 4000 with everything working properly and fair rubber here in southeast PA, but asking and selling prices vary by region. New tires would up the value. The 3 cylinder 4000 would be worth a bit more, in the $3500.00 to $4500.00 range here.

If you aren't confident in doing the wiring yourself, then expect to pay a few hundred to someone to do that for you, so take that into consideration when evaluating the price.
 
WHen... i convert a 4000 over to an alternator.. First I get the alternator with a tach drive. Then I tape up the old generator wires at the generator, and at the voltage regulator, but leave the two big lugs connected between the battery and tractor feed on the old regulator to keep that supply circuit intact. Then I run a new heavy wire from the output of the alternator, to the battery side of the starter solenoid. That is all you have to do to install it, but I also run a little wire from the no. 1 terminal on the alternator to the WL wire that I pulled off the voltage regulator. This first off makes the red charging light work. It also means that when I start the tractor, I dont have to rev it up.. to get the alternator to start charging as this wire excites the alternator upon start up. I hate revving cold engines...

This way the old wires/ voltage regualator are still there if someone want to convert it back to a generator... and since the new alternator can charge at 60 amps instead of 22 amps. the new heavy wire will safely handle the current. And you can safely use the rest of the wiring harness as design.
 
The 50 hp is the general area Id like to be at. I really think I need about 35 and up at the PTO.



This model is from the 1965-1967 hood design. A 3 cylinder engine I believe.



Im in the Midwest. I see a lot of these machines for sale in the $4-5500 range but they often are beat up pretty well. Im by no means an expert on the value.
 
Thanks for the feedback and insights.

It sounds like the wiring from generator to alternator is not a huge undertaking. Perhaps not by me but by someone with background knowledge.
 
(quoted from post at 14:12:18 11/10/22) The 50 hp is the general area Id like to be at. I really think I need about 35 and up at the PTO.



This model is from the 1965-1967 hood design. A 3 cylinder engine I believe.



Im in the Midwest. I see a lot of these machines for sale in the $4-5500 range but they often are beat up pretty well. Im by no means an expert on the value.
( had been sitting ). He claims it runs well".. To each gambler, his own, but I wouldn't buy a tractor that I couldn't run/operate for anything greater than scrap price.
 

I may have been misleading in my question. A purchase would only be after a in-person inspection and trial. The claims it will
run I speak of are from the sales listing.

I'm trying to decide if it's worth the time to move to the next step.
 
(quoted from post at 15:34:07 11/10/22)
I may have been misleading in my question. A purchase would only be after a in-person inspection and trial. The claims it will
run I speak of are from the sales listing.

I'm trying to decide if it's worth the time to move to the next step.
ounds like worth a look & checkout.
 
(quoted from post at 13:12:18 11/10/22) The 50 hp is the general area Id like to be at. I really think I need about 35 and up at the PTO.



This model is from the 1965-1967 hood design. A 3 cylinder engine I believe.



Im in the Midwest. I see a lot of these machines for sale in the $4-5500 range but they often are beat up pretty well. Im by no means an expert on the value.

The 65-mid 68 4000 are 45 pto hp, later models were 52 pto hp
That s a decent price if it s in decent shape with average rubber even for a gas model, one with a diesel engine adds a $1000+ to the price in my area
 

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