1954 Ford NAA Starts but Sputters Backfires Dies ...

I have a 1954 NAA Serial/Mod #118266 / Number on Cast Iron Block = AE-6015-F (I believe a Jubilee model) Gifted from my deceased uncle 30 some years ago had an over haul valve job done by an old pro then I personally replaced spark plugs / plug wires/ distributor cap / rotor / points condenser ... Ran very well ever since mainly used for mowing and winter snow removal when needed. A local mechanic converted it to 12 volt early this year has been starting much faster as planned for the winter months has ran great used all spring & summer. 6 weeks ago I again replaced plugs/wires - dist. cap etc etc - Set plug gap 27/28 and points 25 started easily immediately after and ran great used 4 or 5 times since. Mounted the snow blade a few days ago - started sluggishly and sputtered babied until warmed up still but sputters when accelerating. Changed sediment bowl screen & gasket tried old dist cap & rotor. It was back firing some I adjusted the carburetor after checking the plugs (black) rich/lien fuel mix ..?? It will start and idle a bit better but still sputters and needs babied and sometimes dies when increasing throttle... What else can I check please ... ??? Help... **Also wanted to add at full throttle when warmed up seems to run good, still sputters after reducing throttle then again going to full...

This post was edited by Jackson56 on 11/07/2022 at 11:11 am.

Check the conditions of the ignition points. They need adjustment periodically and may have some pitting and need replacement.

You mentioned that it had been changed to 12 volts. If the coil was not replaced or supplemented with a ballast resistor your igntion points may be experiencing a higher current and that can cause faster wear/pitting. Check for that.

Sounds a lot like bad spark plugs. Today's fact of life: New parts don't necessarily mean good parts! I have the least problems of sputtering/missing/etc. w/NGK's.

It is of interest to me that something similar happened when my NAA was converted to 12 volt: new coil w/ resister, rotor, plugs, wires, points, ignition switch, battery and cables. Ran like a champ all day. Two weeks later started, ran, then died. Haven't got it going yet. I've checked gap on points. Will check gap on plugs. Will reset timing. I'm confident it will start and then run well for many years to come.

What is the recommended Spark Plug and Points gap...??? My current is plugs @ 27/28 and Points @ 25. I read a post suggesting points at 15... Also what Manual would be best to get for this Tractor...?? Thanks..!!

This post was edited by Jackson56 on 11/07/2022 at 08:35 am.

Point gap 0.025 spark plug NGK3112 also 0.025 gap

Jackson56, You said,"A local mechanic converted it to 12 volt early this year has been starting much faster as planned for the winter months has ran great used all spring & summer. 6 weeks ago I again replaced plugs/wires - dist. cap etc etc"

Why would you do that? I would suspect a bad set of points, assuming that points are part of the etc etc.
Like the old saying, If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

(quoted from post at 12:52:09 11/07/22) Jackson56, You said,"A local mechanic converted it to 12 volt early this year has been starting much faster as planned for the winter months has ran great used all spring & summer. 6 weeks ago I again replaced plugs/wires - dist. cap etc etc"

Why would you do that? I would suspect a bad set of points, assuming that points are part of the etc etc.
Like the old saying, If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Click to expand...

Thanks I appreciate the reply - Maybe I confused my post, the Plugs/Points etc replaced aprx. 6 weeks ago were replacements for the same I did nearly 30 years ago, I haven't done them yet again I felt the wires were wearing/weathering and the connection to plugs and distributor cap weren't as tight IMOP. The tractor started and ran great the 4 of 5 times after I can't figure what went wrong since then, one would believe if the replacements I put on were wrong of bad it wouldn't have ran very good right away ..?? Someone posted the coil maybe the issue and I know that was Not replaced with the 12 volt upgrade so that could be the issue along with the 'Carburetor Elbow and Strainer' hasn't been checked or replaced... Any other idea's about possible solutions would be much appreciated - Thanks..!!

Recheck point gap they can slip AND IF THEY DO IT WILL RUN POORLY

Very typical of a bad ignition ballast resistor.

I don't know about what condensers Ford takes, but if they are common to other makes your new one could be junk. Both brother and I did tuneups--me on a tractor and he
on his 56 ford. In both cases they ran fine for a couple of days and then would not start at all. There are numerous posts about bad condensers. I don't know if there
is a fault where they will run crappy when they go bad. Ours would not run at all. If you have the old one, you might put it back in and see if it helps.

Many of your symptoms might suggest a lean condition but you say the spark plugs are blackened which would indicate rich.
You changed the sediment bowl filter, but did you do a fuel flow test? There is a screen in the tank and one at the carb inlet. Shut the fuel and remove the plug at the bottom of the carburetor and let the bowl drain out. Then open the fuel and see how long it takes to fill a pint.

Just a thought check your air cleaner also put in electronic ignition you won't believe the difference

I did try putting the old points & condenser back on, seemed to idle a bit better so I plan to get a better quality set than what came with the tune up kit I bought - Any suggestions on Brands of Points / Condenser -and- a New Coil ... ??? Regitar is offered here, Wells at my Local CarQuest and NAPA carries Echlin I believe, Which of these 3 would be recommended - any others..?? Thanks..!!

I would go with the Echlin. I just put points, rotor and cap (re-using the condenser) in my '50 Ferguson that I ordered from here. It won't run with the new rotor an cap but runs good, for now with the old ones.
The package says the parts are for a A.C. model. Perhaps they used the same (Delco) distributor.