1980 4600 welded tie rod end

wpc45 · Oct 4, 2022

1980 Ford 4600, is there a way to replace the tie rod end that is welded on the tube that connects to the steering arm at the gear box? Its either that or buy an entire tube. Thinking someone might know of a part number for tie rod end that can be welded in place. Thanks!

Sean in PA · Oct 4, 2022

If you can find an end of the same size and taper, you could certainly cut the old end off and weld a new end on.

Bern · Oct 5, 2022

It wasn't welded on at the factory, the whole drag link with the two ends was one piece. Since someone already has welded an end on it in the past, just get a grinder out and grind off the weld if the tube is hollow, or simply cut it off and weld on a new end if the tube is solid. I believe it's solid.

wpc45 · Oct 5, 2022

I may have misspoke, but I have two of the same tractor. They are both the same, so feel it came that way from the factory. Im calling the tapered ball joint that is used for the steering a tie rod end. There is one tube that connects the gear box steering arm to the drivers side spindle. Then there is one tube that connects the drivers side spindle to the passenger side spindle. All tie rod ends are replaceable except for the steering arm at gear box. This one is part of the tube. I was hoping someone knew of a part number to use for tie rod end with same taper and diameter to use.

Destroked 450 · Oct 5, 2022

I believe Ultradog did a repair similar to that some time ago
Check with him

Ultradog MN · Oct 5, 2022

Is this an SU model?
It would be easier to decipher if you tell us that.
The SUs had the same wishbone steering as the 3000s. It is not a tube. The power steering tractors were solid except for where the front, replaceable ball end screwed in.
The hydraulic steering cylinder connects to it.
Is that correct?
If so a threaded rear ball end from a non power steering 3000 will fit the taper, etc.
Cut the old one off and weld the new one on.
Don't neglect to index it correctly - the front stud points down and the rear stud points horizontal.
Makes a difference if R or L too.
There's a photo that has been around for at least a dozen years but I can't find it now.
I ground points on the ends of the parts to be welded so I could make a 100% penetration weld. Then did some grinding, used a little bondo, then prime and paint.
They are still holding up good.

Sean in PA · Oct 5, 2022

Ultradog, his description of the single drag link on the left side and another connecting the left and right spindles seems like it is a regular 3 cylinder ag chassis 4000, not an SU.

wpc45 · Oct 5, 2022

Sorry, its not a SU. It has no radius rods.

Destroked 450 · Oct 6, 2022

Same principle applies, purchase the short adjustable front end, cut and weld to fit

Fordfarmer · Oct 6, 2022

Then it's an all purpose model like mine. The drag link is a tube with the rear ball and welded on at the factory, and the front end being adjustable to change according to tread width.
I just got the whole tube and ball and when I replaced mine. I'd think you could weld a replacement and on the tube, if you wanted. I'd look for a greasable one, as welding would probably melt the grease in a prelubed type.

wpc45 · Oct 6, 2022

Yes, its and all purpose 4600, not SU. I need to find a tie rod end that has the same taper and diameter to weld on. I suppose I could also just replace the entire tube, but figured it would be more expensive and not be greaseable.

1980 4600 welded tie rod end

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Bern

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Destroked 450

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