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5200 hyd lift chest and cylinder

W

WayneIA

Well-known Member
Into it because of a constant hiccup and a very poor position control. Probably found the hiccup problem as there were three bad o ring seals between the lift cylinder and lift cover, on half gone. probably
the reason silicone was found around the mounting bolt holding the cylinder to the lift chest. Will be an interesting situation we we try to get this very heavy cylinder mounted back into the lift chest with
the unloading valve check valve assembly protruding out the top of the valve assembly as the cylinder is splipped into the lift chest,(I hope?)Lot's of interesting situations her as I have never been into one
of these before. Are there any instruction around for adjusting the linkage? I do not have a shop manual. Have owned this tractor for 47 of it's 50 years and have never needed on till now.
 
The factory service manual likely only has procedures for adjustments using specialized tools that are no longer available. The I&T after market Service Manual should have alternate procedures that will allow you to adjust things without the specialized tools.
 
If you don't have a shop manual, then getting one would be my recommendation. No one illustrates and spells it out better than the factory manual, although as Sean said the IT manual will give you dimensions without using the special tools.

Be advised that the setting dimension was changed halfway through the 5000 production. In 1970 Ford revised the control valve spool which changed the setting dimension from .200 inch to .030 inch. I recently worked on a later-model 7000 where the last person who worked on it did not get that memo. Because of that the arms would not start to raise until the lever was half-way up the quadrant.

I worked on that lift cover by taking the weight up with an overhead hoist at the top link end and clamping the other end down in a bench vice. Worked pretty well.
 
Hay Bern, a little more advice ,if it possible. I have the cylinder assembly laying on the bench. There are 10 orings sealing it to the lift chest. Three of them had only half of an oring left and two more were showing big signs of disappearing,. And the bolts appeared to be tigh. Any answerers? Also, how does on keep the check valve assembly in place will mounting the heavy cylinder back into the lift chest? Thought your experience might help as I wait for parts since my local NH dealer closed and the nearest one is now 70 miles away. Never been this far in on one of these!! This all started since I had to replace the safety starter switch. Did I say this was a 5200! Thanks
 
5000 and 5200 are essentially the same thing as far as the internals go.

I have no idea why the o-rings would erode if the bolts were tight - that's not normal. I've never seen that before with those cylinders.

How did working on the safety switch morph into diving into the lift cylinder?

As for the check valve, can you ID it using the link below?
Lift cylinder
 
It takes a bit of iron removal to get to the switch on a 5200 . New the hyd wasn't working right but it did work so first thought was not there. Items 17-22. It appears that friction on the o ring on the spring cap should hold the assembly in place as the cylinder is put in place on the lift chest. Am I right? Hopefully I should get my hands on a shop manual today!
 
Yes, I would say that the friction from the number 20 o-ring should hold that in place. Given the condition of some of the other o-rings in there, I'm going to surmise that they all got very hot and hard over the years. You would do well to replace them all, including the lift piston seals.
 
Yes all o rings and seals will be replaced and were ordered from NH, hopefully today they will arrive. Thanks for your input.
 
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