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601 wiring

F

FSA1953

Member
I have an issue I'm trying to pin point
the culprit. I've rewired the tractor
correctly. I'm looking to switch it from
12 volt positive ground to 12 volt
negative ground. I was told by a tech
support representative that all I need to
do is switch the battery cables around and
the coil wires which I did. Then the
solenoid started smoking I disconnected
the negative battery cable. I'm wondering
if it still has a 6 volt regulator or if
the push button they installed is back
feeding? How do I tell if the regulator is
6 or 12 volt? Or I'll just put it back to
12 volt positive ground. The tractor was
converted from 6 volt to 12 volt by the
previous owner. The only thing is they by
passed the neutral safety switch and
installed a put button and wired it to the
S and I terminals on the solenoid
 
Hard to trouble-shoot remotely when I don't know what you have. Alternator or generator? Solenoid is an unknown. Why do I say that? Because of how you said it is wired. Can you make a drawing of the wiring?


Never mind, I remember you now. Where did smoke come from? Wires attached to terminals or actually from inside of a usually sealed solenoid?

I do not immediately know how to distinguish between a 6 or 12 volt VR other than by applying a variable voltage to ARM terminal and noting at what voltage the BATT to ARM contacts close.....a little over 6 or a little over 12. In addition to switching battery cables and coil wires, the DC Generator has to be re-polarized for NEG ground. If you started it without re-polarizing, the VR is now likely ruined.

This post was edited by JMOR on 05/19/2022 at 03:31 pm.
 
Inside the regulator. I have another one
floating around. How do I go about re
polarizing the generator?
 
(quoted from post at 18:50:07 05/19/22) Inside the regulator. I have another one
floating around. How do I go about re
polarizing the generator?
Click to expand...
ours is Type B, as on right.
kR8wEB5.jpg
 
Let me go over this so I don't burn
anything else up. Negative to ground,
positive to solenoid terminal,from VR
touch field and battery together till I
get a spark correct so far? Now is this
with tractor running or off with key on?
I've never had to polarized a generator
before I've always replaced with 1 wire
alternator. Add anything else if I missed
anything.
 
(quoted from post at 20:12:06 05/19/22) Let me go over this so I don't burn
anything else up. Negative to ground,
positive to solenoid terminal,from VR
touch field and battery together till I
get a spark correct so far? Now is this
with tractor running or off with key on?
I've never had to polarized a generator
before I've always replaced with 1 wire
alternator. Add anything else if I missed
anything.
Click to expand...
othing turned on or running. AND Field wire only connected to generator (not connected to VR). Should observe small spark as result of field current make/break.
 
I did the re polarizing of the generator.
Found it looked like the battery side of
the VR stuck closed and caused the smoking
unstuck the VR and tractor started right
up. I'm going to change the VR out still
works but not going to chance it.

Thanks for the info.
cvphoto126212.jpg


cvphoto126213.jpg


cvphoto126214.jpg
 
I have another question I should have
asked before. The ammeter I take the 2
wires from meter and connect 1 on each
side of the terminal block and how will I
tell if it's hooked up correctly? I think
that should be all for now unless I find
something else I missed.

Thanks again
 
I've tried every wire hook up combination.
I finally took the ammeter out and on the
back there's an F and I. Does the F
get hooked up to field on the generator or
the VR and the I to the ignition hot side
or the not hot side. I attached a photo of
the back of the ammeter.
cvphoto126410.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:52:44 05/23/22) I've tried every wire hook up combination.
I finally took the ammeter out and on the
back there's an F and I. Does the F
get hooked up to field on the generator or
the VR and the I to the ignition hot side
or the not hot side. I attached a photo of
the back of the ammeter.
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto126410.jpg>
Click to expand...
have no idea about what F & I may be about. One ammeter terminal is connected to the battery, most often by a wire from the solenoid large terminal with battery cable on it. All loads (lights, ignition, etc) and the output of gen/VR (from the VR BATT terminal connect to the other terminal of ammeter. If it shows discharge when charging and shows a positive charge indication when lights on or ignition on with engine stalled, then simply swap wires on the two terminals of ammeter. The generator Field and the VR Field has nothing to do with the ammeter.
 
Followed your instructions for wiring the
ammeter first shot shows battery is
charging.

Thank you for your patience with me. I've
rewired a farmall without this many
issues.

Thanks again
 
(quoted from post at 19:39:43 05/24/22) Followed your instructions for wiring the
ammeter first shot shows battery is
charging.

Thank you for your patience with me. I've
rewired a farmall without this many
issues.

Thanks again
Click to expand...
ery good & you are welcome.
 
Quick question
I noticed the other day that the ammeter
at idle is reading about 11 volts and 1/2
throttle is reading about 16 volts. I
checked the battery and generator is
charging the battery cause it coincides
with the readings at idle and 1/2
throttle. Is that to much volts for the
system or do I need to polarize the VR?
People say yes and some say no. So I'm
asking since you've given me the correct
advice to get my wiring issues solved.

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 17:59:32 06/04/22) Quick question
I noticed the other day that the ammeter
at idle is reading about 11 volts and 1/2
throttle is reading about 16 volts. I
checked the battery and generator is
charging the battery cause it coincides
with the readings at idle and 1/2
throttle. Is that to much volts for the
system or do I need to polarize the VR?
People say yes and some say no. So I'm
asking since you've given me the correct
advice to get my wiring issues solved.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Maybe it's just me, but I'm confused here. An ammeter reads amperage. A voltmeter reads volts. They are wired into a circuit differently. You don't read voltage on an ammeter. Charging 11 to 16 amps is one thing, 11 to 16 volts is another. 11 to 16 amps should be ok. 11 volts is low and 16 volts is too high on a 12 volt system. So which do you have ammeter or voltmeter and what are you reading?
 
,

So you are reading 11 to 16 amps (not volts). I would say that is ok, if it drops back as it runs awhile. Amperage output should drop as battery voltage increases. Using a handheld multimeter what is the voltage at the battery when not running, at idle, and at half throttle (the points where you checked amps).
 
Not running battery 12.6
Idle at battery 16.5
1/2 throttle at battery 18.2
I just don't want to fry anything if those
readings aren't correct.
I had a lot of wiring issues from the
previous owner. That's why I've been
asking a lot of questions here on the
site.

Thank you
 
(quoted from post at 11:40:18 06/05/22) Not running battery 12.6
Idle at battery 16.5
1/2 throttle at battery 18.2
I just don't want to fry anything if those
readings aren't correct.
I had a lot of wiring issues from the
previous owner. That's why I've been
asking a lot of questions here on the
site.

Thank you
Click to expand...
F those are voltage readings on the actual battery posts and not on cable ends, then they are too high & will over a period, damage battery.
 
Tractor not running battery reads 12.6-
12.8
Tractor running idle battery reads 16.5
Tractor 1/2 throttle battery reads 18.2
What needs to be done to get that lower so
I don't do any damage?

Thanks
 
Tractor not running battery reads 12.6-
12.8
Idle battery reads 16.5
1/2 throttle battery reads 18.2
What do I need to do to get it lower so I
don't do any damage?

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 11:44:30 06/06/22) Tractor not running battery reads 12.6-
12.8
Idle battery reads 16.5
1/2 throttle battery reads 18.2
What do I need to do to get it lower so I
don't do any damage?

Thanks
Click to expand...
hat voltage is controlled by bending tabs on the field control portion of the VR, to alter spacings and spring tension and is a "by trial & error" process. It takes a lot of time as the cover must be replaced and enough time running to stabilize the VR temperature between each adjustment. Not something for most folks.
 
You think I can put my 6 volt generator
back on and use it with the 6 volt instead
of the 12 volt generator. The 6 volt works
fine puts out between 6-8 volts. I just
want to be able to keep the battery
charged.
 
I just realized that my 12 volt generator is externally grounded to a screw that holds the VR in it's spot. So mine wouldn't be type B in
the photo it would be type A. Maybe that might be my issue why the generator is over charging. Idk
 
(quoted from post at 18:08:53 06/06/22) I just realized that my 12 volt generator is externally grounded to a screw that holds the VR in it's spot. So mine wouldn't be type B in
the photo it would be type A. Maybe that might be my issue why the generator is over charging. Idk
Click to expand...
ot at all sure that you understand the meaning of "externally grounded"..as it applies to type A and B generators & regulators. In either case, the body of the generator and body of VR are chassis grounded & therefore tied together by structure and often by wire. Internally grounded or externally grounded in a generator refers to how the field coils are connected inside the generator. Note upper left illustration: here the Field coil gets its power from the gen brush connected to ARM and field coil other connection must be grounded for current to flow thru field coil....this grounding is done via F terminals on gen and VR, often referred to as externally grounded field.
Now look to lower left illustration: here the Field coil gets its power from the F terminal of the VR to F of gen, and the other connection must be grounded for current to flow thru field coil....this grounding is done by the bonding of the field wire to the inside of generator housing, often referred to as internally grounded field. Note also my indications of "internally sourced" & "externally sourced" language, referring to where field gets its power.
yxOKYA4.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 19:56:11 06/06/22) Ok. Thanks
When I adjust the VR to get the correct
voltage tractor needs to be running
correct?
Click to expand...
o avoid a short circuit with tools, I would make adjustment power off, start & observe result....and repeat.
 
Found the problem with the battery over
charging. Faulty VR purchase a made in USA
one and now works perfect.

Thanks for the help again
 
(quoted from post at 18:19:25 06/11/22) Found the problem with the battery over
charging. Faulty VR purchase a made in USA
one and now works perfect.

Thanks for the help again
Click to expand...
appy for you! Been a long row to hoe, but you got 'er done & I believe gained knowledge in the process.
 
Everything is working out ok. I went to
move a hay round and pushed the clutch
pedal in and it would slow the rpms down
almost to stall the tractor and I release
the clutch pedal the rpms go up. What
would cause this?

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 17:01:26 06/16/22) Everything is working out ok. I went to
move a hay round and pushed the clutch
pedal in and it would slow the rpms down
almost to stall the tractor and I release
the clutch pedal the rpms go up. What
would cause this?

Thanks
Click to expand...
o help here on that one. Suggest that you start a new thread with different title, such as "potential clutch problem?"
 
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