6000 Ford generator issues

My generator is not charging. When I loosen the belts, remove the A and F wires at the generator and apply battery + to the A and F terminals at the generator it motors. Next I removed the F wire at the generator and momentarily applied battery + to the F terminal to try to polarize the generator but still no charge. Lastly I took the F wire off at the generator and left battery + connected to the F terminal to try to get a full charge from the generator but still no charge. What can I do to try to get a full charge out of the generator by taking the regulator totally out of the picture?
 
See if this helps:
Type A and B charging systems
Web search will yield a lot of information on the difference between type A and B. The simple difference is with type A, the regulator / limiting resistor is between generator field and ground. Type B, the resistor is between Armature and Field terminals and Field is internally grounded. The resistor in both types is inside the regulator.
The NAA is a type B charging system. Type B polarizes by disconnecting the F wire at the regulator and momentarily touching it to a hot battery source such as the regulator BAT terminal.
Type A polarizes by momentarily jumping the ARM and hot battery source.
Full field type A by grounding the F terminal.
Full field type B by jumping from F to ARM on the generator.
Polarizing or full fielding incorrectly can damage the regulator.
From Bob V. KS. on the SSB tractor forum.
 
First off, you can't take the regulator out of the picture, because it's needed to keep from cooking the battery.

It sounds like your generator is OK based on your motoring test, however here's what I would do if I were you: Grab a voltmeter and connect it to the output terminal of the generator. Start the engine, run it at maybe 1000 RPM or so, and apply full battery voltage to the F terminal using a jumper wire. If the voltage climbs up quickly (14-15-16-17 etc.), remove the jumper wire so you don't burn the thing up - the generator is fine. The problem then has to be with the regulator (most likely) or the wiring. You can do continuity checks between the regulator and generator to rule out the wiring, or you can remove the regulator and pop the lid off and look for stuck/burnt points inside.

Many on this board will advise you to convert it to an alternator, however that's a little tougher to do on a 6000 with that unusual double groove pulley. I kept a generator on mine for authenticity. And, as a bonus, it actually charges!
 
I did check the wires from the generator to the regulator and from the regulator to the starter. They all checked out as good. I will try jumping F to full battery voltage and see what happens. Thank You.
 
I just came in from the shop and this is what I found:
I ran battery positive to the F stud on the generator and was showing only .5 volts. While staring at it, wondering what to do next, I noticed some arcing below the battery. After moving the wires around a little bit the arcing turned into a small fire. Don't that get the heart pumping. Needless to say I found the F wire between the generator and regulator had wore the insulation off and was arcing on the top of the transmission. I replaced the wire and all seems good now. It was charging at 15.5 volts with a fully charged battery so I think I will take a look at the regulator contacts just to make sure they are not welded together. Thank you all for your help!
 
15.5 volts is too high and will cook your battery over time. You ideally you want to see 14 to 14.5 volts max.

Mine was running a little high as well. I pulled the regulator off and gave the voltage regulator adjustment a little tweak. Now I'm holding in the low 14's.
 

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