Ford 3000 Gas Tractor Wont Start

Cajun56

New User
My for 3000 gas tractor will not start. it has been sitting for around 4-6 months. i have just changed the starter, the starter solenoid, the spark plugs and checked the carb out and it was good. I had got it started for like 10 sec after changing starter and solenoid with the help of starting fluid but now it will not even start with starting fluid. any ideas on what it could be?
 
I went through something like this a few months ago and the resounding advice was: don't replace anything until you know what's actually wrong first. The reason being that something you replace could have its own problems (like an incorrect solenoid I encountered, for example.)

It sounds like your electrical system is good if you did get it started on starter fluid; this means you are able to get the engine to rotate under starter power. If the engine is not rotating when you're hitting the starter button, check your electrical components.

If you were able to start on starter fluid but not otherwise, then your problem might be fuel. Check any filters, lines, sediment bowls for obstruction, dirt, and flow. Starting on starter fluid also suggests your spark is on the right track, but doesn't necessarily rule out a spark strength issue.
 

I should also note that i am getting gas cause i took the drain screw out the carb and the bowl was full of gas. Could it be the points in the distributor?
 
(quoted from post at 13:50:56 03/29/22)
I should also note that i am getting gas cause i took the drain screw out the carb and the bowl was full of gas.

How long did you leave the screw out? If you only drained your bowl, you could still have a low flow problem.

The ultimate fuel test is apparently to pull the choke all the way out and try to start it for five or six seconds. Then pull out two of the spark plugs to see if they're wet from fuel.

My problem ended up being a throttle link clip between the intake manifold and the block that disrupted the fueled air flow. If you've had the intake off, you might check for that.

Yes, if you have a weak spark, filing or replacing the points could help. But if you had it running, you should really rule out fuel disruption before replacing other parts needlessly.
 
(quoted from post at 13:16:14 03/29/22)
(quoted from post at 13:50:56 03/29/22)
I should also note that i am getting gas cause i took the drain screw out the carb and the bowl was full of gas.

How long did you leave the screw out? If you only drained your bowl, you could still have a low flow problem.

The ultimate fuel test is apparently to pull the choke all the way out and try to start it for five or six seconds. Then pull out two of the spark plugs to see if they're wet from fuel.

My problem ended up being a throttle link clip between the intake manifold and the block that disrupted the fueled air flow. If you've had the intake off, you might check for that.

Yes, if you have a weak spark, filing or replacing the points could help. But if you had it running, you should really rule out fuel disruption before replacing other parts needlessly.


If im getting fuel all the way to the fuel sediment bow i should be good right? im just trying to understand why it started for like 5-10 sec on starting fluid but now when i spray it it wont even come close to starting. i sprayed it in the air filter housing thats correct right? Sorry for all the questions this tractor is new to me it was left to me from my dad
 
No problem, that's what the forum is for!
These tractors are great fun, especially when they run!

Here's my logic: your air path is clear because you started the tractor.
Your spark at least works marginally (or did work) because you were able to run the tractor.
Your fuel path is the most likely issue, because the tractor has not run on the fuel. I believe you should prove you've got that working first, then move to spark only when fuel is good.

Were I in your shoes, I'd first make sure the tank has fresh gas, (I prefer non ethanol) then prove definitively the fuel flows well to the sediment bowl, through it (clean or replace the filter) and beyond it. If you let the fuel flow out the bottom of the carb for 2 minutes you'll see.

While you're doing that, make sure your battery is fully charged.
 
So this afternoon I took the drain plug
from the carb and the bowl was full. I
then proceeded to try and start the
tractor with the plug out and it would
drip a little gas but not much. Is that
bad?
 
(quoted from post at 22:46:16 03/29/22) So this afternoon I took the drain plug
from the carb and the bowl was full. I
then proceeded to try and start the
tractor with the plug out and it would
drip a little gas but not much. Is that
bad?

If the tank valve was turned on and you only got a drip out of the carb drain port with the plug removed, you have a fuel supply problem. It may be a plugged line or fitting. I believe your 3000 should have a fuel pump and that could be bad. I would expect to see more than a little drip.
 
A drip out of carb is not enough to get it running. It should pour out like man peeing. You must trace back up from carb to tank to see where the problem is. Could be in carb, or a filter, or the line, or the sediment bowl, or the tank. Disconnect one at a time and check. My guess is carb has blockage, but if you disconnect line from carb and that flows good, then you will know for sure.
 
Ford 2000; 3 cyl. gas; 4 speed.....I had a similar problem and it turned out that the shut off valve on the tank was full of debris which cut way down on fuel flow. Replaced that valve and it started right up. There is a tall filter on the top of that valve and I could see it laying in the bottom of the tank. So, I assume the valve filled up with debris until it was clogged. Good luck with yours.
 
no,You Have Air andworking Electric, Dont give this
3000 tinkeritis, Remember You drained gas overnite
then all you had was a dribble, You are not getting
enuf gas to start and keep running. It is either a
stopped tank valve , a plugged needle valve on top of
carb. Currently, my 400 CASE has that trouble.BLOW air
back thru gas line into the tank. I actually do this
out in the field by mouth. No wonder i have health
problems. LOL BTW.THis 3000 should run once per week
and consume 5 gallons of gas working permonth to stay
healthy. When i resurrect gassers i USually put a
QT.of ATF in the gas. You will be best off to do that
when or if You use E-85 gas. ANOTHER THING,when
parking a gasser forat least a few days.Turn off
Gasand run til and choked Run completely drythe carb.
That keeps that e-85 gum from forming from
evaporating ethanol. THAT Problem RIGHT THERE IS WHY
SO MANY , cant get along with ethanol based fuels.
 
Thanks everyone for the help. it was the fuel shutoff valve that was clogged. blew it out and it worked
 

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