3600 neutral safety

elcid85

New User
I need help figuring out what is going on with the neutral safety switch on my 3600. I have replaced it twice in the past year (actually it's two different mechanics) and both times it will work for a while and then stop. We even replaced the wiring harness the second time. It's definitely in the "transmission" portion because I can disconnect the harness, short the terminals and it starts every time.
 
Have you tried moving the range shifter forward and aft slightly as you hold the key in the start position? Perhaps things are worn to where the switch isn't being actuated properly when the range shifter is in the dead center of the neutral position.
 
I'm convinced that this neutral safety switch arrangement is an under-engineered area on the 3-cylinder tractors, since many of them have the same issue you describe. I believe the root of the problem lies in the fact that the ball on the switch does not get pressed in far enough.

Two possible fixes for this might be to make up a longer actuating pin, by maybe .020 inch or so, or else file the switch holder surface down to get the switch closer to the plunger. I've found that even with a new switch, the area in the neutral band needed to actuate it is very small.
 
(quoted from post at 14:29:27 03/21/22) Have you tried moving the range shifter forward and aft slightly as you hold the key in the start position? Perhaps things are worn to where the switch isn't being actuated properly when the range shifter is in the dead center of the neutral position.

You hit the nail on the head. As soon as I moved it off dead center, the tractor cranks. Don't know why I didn't think of that...
 
(quoted from post at 15:28:09 03/21/22) I'm convinced that this neutral safety switch arrangement is an under-engineered area on the 3-cylinder tractors, since many of them have the same issue you describe. I believe the root of the problem lies in the fact that the ball on the switch does not get pressed in far enough.

Two possible fixes for this might be to make up a longer actuating pin, by maybe .020 inch or so, or else file the switch holder surface down to get the switch closer to the plunger. I've found that even with a new switch, the area in the neutral band needed to actuate it is very small.

I liked the relatively simple safety on the International 444 that I had at one point. It was just a spring loaded lever on a switch that interrupted the circuit until the clutch was depressed.
 
I have a 2 year old acquired 3910 using the Range Lever for starting safety, that I bought with the same problem. After a new switch
and other considerations I determined that the spacing for the actuator was too large. I installed a spacer washer to decrease the
actuation distance and that was 2 years of trouble free performance since modification.
 

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