Ford 7000 turbo questions

I was wondering if putting a strait stack rather than the factory muffler on my 7000 would make the turbo sound more pronounced or what I should do to make it whistle more? And the is a black looking fluid that had come out the feed pipe right before the turbo, looks like oil does that signal a rebuild? Thanks[/img]
 
A straight pipe may or may not have a whistle to the exhaust. The black goo sounds like wet stacking, diesel engines sometimes will have it as the diesel exhaust temp
at idle/light load use is cooler than gas engines. It USUALLY goes away when the engine is put to work, making the exhaust temp hotter. Tired, lower than normal engine
compression makes the dripping worse too during light load use.
 
OK would a bigger exhaust help the turbo then too? And the motte currently has 9000+ hours on it and was rebuilt once already just didnt know if the rings were going bad and leaking oil into the cylinder and intake manifold. Thanks!
 
I was wondering if putting a strait stack rather than the factory muffler on my 7000 would make the turbo sound more pronounced or what I should do to make it whistle more?

Do you think that making it whistle louder might somehow improve the performance or efficiency?

OK would a bigger exhaust help the turbo then too?

What kind of help do you think the turbo needs? I'm just curious.

Seems like you're the type to put straight pipes on an otherwise stock Harley Davidson. It makes it louder, but it actually decreases the performance. Straight pipes only help performance if you tweak other things as well, like increasing the fuel and air going into the engine and adjusting the timing accordingly, etc. Making the turbo whistle louder without doing anything else to improve the engine output will likely lose at least some power in the process of making it whistle louder.
 
I agree with Dieseltech - the black fluid
is probably from wet stacking
(slobbering).
I bought a muffler (meant for a 7000)
from this site a few months ago.
Noticeably heavier than the Stanley it
replaced, but it's a straight-through
design, no baffles. You hear the turbo
plenty any time it's over idle! I HAVE to
replace it before spring field work
starts... 15-20 minutes at a moderate
load I can put up with. All day under a
heavy load will drive me nuts!
 
(quoted from post at 22:13:04 03/08/22)
I was wondering if putting a strait stack rather than the factory muffler on my 7000 would make the turbo sound more pronounced or what I should do to make it whistle more?

Do you think that making it whistle louder might somehow improve the performance or efficiency?

It sounds cool for about 20 minutes. I put a straight pipe on my 4630 and after about 20 minutes of mowing I put the muffler back on.
 
First the idea of the strait pipe was to make the tractor run cooler, and hopefully to make it sound kinda cooler too. By making the turbo sound better I was just hoping to get a little more sound out of it was all if not thats fine but I could only hear it decent when putting it in road gear and opening it wide. And the cold stacking sounds good, thanks for the info Ill just try to clean off the muck and hope I can keep it warm enough to not put out some of that fluid. Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 06:30:55 03/09/22) First the idea of the strait pipe was to make the tractor run cooler, and hopefully to make it sound kinda cooler too. By making the turbo sound better I was just hoping to get a little more sound out of it was all if not thats fine but I could only hear it decent when putting it in road gear and opening it wide. And the cold stacking sounds good, thanks for the info Ill just try to clean off the muck and hope I can keep it warm enough to not put out some of that fluid. Thanks!


Put a load on her and she will make plenty of noise. You can't hear the turbo on my 4630 until it's got a load and working.
 
Sorry I meant wet stacking, and this tractor is not used for field work, just random around the acreage work and it has been sitting for a while and when it runs it doesnt run for very long since I havent neeeded it to do any work it has just been driven. Thanks for the info!
 

That explains why it's wet stacking, those tractors and engines were made to be used.
Since you don't presently have any equipment to work the tractor fire it up and after a short warm up set the throttle at 18-1900 rpm and let it set there and run for a couple of hours to build some heat in the engine, that should help with the wet stacking issue.
Some turbo's make very little noise while others seam the scream all of the time, Cummins Holset turbo's make the most noise.
Unless the muffler is making a good bit of back pressure going to a straight pipe won't have much effect on power output but it will make the tractor a little louder and COULD give it a little more turbo whistle.
Pop the muffler off and stick a cheap piece of straight pipe on it, if you like it find a chrome stack for it, if you don't like it stick the muffle back on, it all personal preference.
 


You have been told correctly that the oil is most likely slobber from low temperature. A larger pipe to make it even cooler is not a good idea.
 
DON'T IDLE A DIESEL ENGINE AROUND.. Start up ;get coolant temp up to 180 degrees, and put to work.
You will have the whistle and no mess!!!
 
I thought that a straight pipe would help it run cooler since at least on the gauge it ran very close to red when at full tempature just to help it not get so hot in the summer but otherwise thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 14:01:52 03/09/22) I thought that a straight pipe would help it run cooler since at least on the gauge it ran very close to red when at full tempature just to help it not get so hot in the summer but otherwise thanks!


Generally it is difficult to get diesels to run as hot as they should. I would remove the sending unit and check for a build-up of rust around it.
 
I replaced and repainted that whole area only about 2-3 years ago so I was wondering why it ran so hot, and thats why I thought of the staight pipe.
 

The gauges on these old thousand series are less than reliable
The one on my 4000 will be two needle widths from hot 5 minutes after I start it even on a cold day, but when it goes into the red it's hot
The one on my 4000SU never gets over half way before it starts boiling over
Get your self one of those cheap later point temperature guns and check the temp at the base of the radiator tank
 
Ok I had also repacked the gauge cluster and last time it ran I never thought to read the bad of the radiator I just read the engine block, and exhaust temps. Thank you!
 
IIRC I could hear the turbo mostly when I was coming off of throttle... not so much at steady speed. 2. be sure and run a 180 or 190 degree thermostat. 3. the 190 will usually keep it near the red,but not quite in it. Hard working will keep it in the red but not pegged as it will run 212 to 225 degrees... that is why they put a 13 lb radiator cap on it, to allow it to run hotter and not boil, but the gauges were the same gauges used on the 160 degree gas tractors and used for both.. So,yes it will and should run near the red and lots of times, in the red a bit. If gauges had degree settings on them, you might feel better about turbo tractors running at 190 and above,, or actually in the first part of the red.
 
I had a 1979 JD 4230 with the Sound Guard Cab at 100 PTO HP, Non turbo. Muffler was 4 input and 1 1/2 output. The same engine
with a turbo installed on that 4 exhaust would get you another 25 HP and was a 4430, a popular workhorse of the day. Interesting,
when I bought mine, had 3900 hrs of mowing time and was cosmetically restored since the workings weren't worn out. Sitting next
to it on the lot was a 4430 cab for 2K more and 10k hours, also cosmetically restored......

I test drove the 4230 first and it was tight. Then the 4430 and it was loose. I didn't need the extra ponies so I opted for the 4230.

I put a 3' 4 diameter chrome stack without a muffler on that sucker and for parades, lots of flags. Made an attention getter at local
rodeo parades. When I sold it years later the first thing the buyer said was.....I gotta get a muffler for that thing.
 
Ok one more quick question, what should the exhaust temperature be for the turbo side? I was getting around 300 degrees Fahrenheit and when I took the muffler off, it dropped about 10-15 degrees. Is that the running temp it should be?
 

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