Ford 3000 correct power steering pump

I'm trying to find the correct power steering pump with the lower pressure (700) all I'm seeing in the higher 1200 psi pumps.
it currently has the external reservoir I would like to switch to the newer integrated reservoir
its a 1970 ford industrial 3 cy. diesel with a loader it has the same steering as a 3000 and a 4110 dual cylinders 1/2 ends
 
When you say "its a 1970 ford industrial 3 cy.", and that you are looking for the lower psi pump, that it is actually a 3400 model, which was the "Utility" model in the 3000 series, not an Industrial model. The Industrial models were the 3500 and 3550, both of which used the 1100 psi power steering pump. By the way, the 3400 actually used a 650 psi pump, not a 700 psi pump.

All of those pumps from the 650 psi through 1100 psi are actually the same, with the only difference being how the relief valves are shimmed when they leave the factory. An 1100 psi pump can have some shims removed so that the relief valve opens at 650 psi. If you contact one of the more reputable sellers where you see the 1100 psi pump advertised and ask them to change out the shims they may do that for you. If not, and you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself you can take it to a local hydraulic shop or a New Holland dealer if you have one locally and have them do it. They will actually pressure test it to be sure that it's set for 650 psi, but it will add cost.

The only issue with running an 1100 psi pump on your tractor is if you leave the steering at full lock left or right for extended periods of time. Under normal steering conditions the pressure never builds above the rated 650 psi of your system, but when you hold the steering at full lock in either direction, that is when the excess pressure builds and the relief valve opens, and on a 650 psi pump that happens at 650 psi, which the rest of the system is rated for, but with an 1100 psi pump the pressure will exceed the rating for the other components and you will develop premature leakage, either externally or internally in the cylinders or the control valve in the steering column.

This post was edited by Sean in PA on 01/13/2022 at 05:19 am.
 
Sean,
He and I have talked on the phone a couple
of times and I suggested he ask this here.
His tractor is a 4410 - Woods Tractor.
It has the old style pump with separate
reservoir. His pump is cratered. Run
without oil by previous owner. A new old
style pump is quite expensive and since his
hard lines to the column have already been
changed to nice race car style braided hyd
hoses we figured it is easy enough and much
cheaper to go to the newer, integral style
pump.
Yes, all those pumps are convertible from
1100 to 650. But to do so means pulling the
reservoir and removing a shim or shims from
the pressure relief valve.
Then reassembling, testing the pressure and
maybe doing it all over again.
Nice if he could just get a pump with the
correct psi rating so it is once and done.

As an alternative, if someone here could
tell him exactly how many shims to remove
he could do that before he installs it.

As to whether that pressure difference
really matters that much, I believe it
does.
His tractor has the 5/8in rods in the
steering cylinders so it's not likely they
will bend like you see on All Purpose
models from over pressure. However, there
is still the issue of the seals in his
column which which are not rated for that
increased pressure.
So if we can just get him the right psi
pump he'll be a happy camper.


Aschmidbauer64,
I hope you don't mind if I jumped in
here...
 
My I&T FO-31 Manual says that the shims come in 3 different thicknesses, 0.010", 0.015" 0.060", and that adding or removing 0.005" in shim thickness will increase or decrease the pressure by 35 psi. So, to go from 1100 psi to 650 psi (a reduction of 450 psi), he would need to remove approximately 0.065" worth of shim thickness. That is assuming that the shims in the pumps made today work the same as they did back when the tractor was new. I remember assisting another person several years ago on-line in calculating this, and it seemed to be pretty close. He didn't measure the exact rating before he started so we assumed 1100 psi, and he removed 0.065" worth of shims and if my memory is correct, he ended up somewhere between 630 and 640 psi. He decided that a little lower than 650 would be safer than a little higher, so he left it at that.
 
That makes sense, I didn't get very far talking to the supply houses today as far as availability or knowledge of this lower PSI pump It may be easier just to buy
the correct one rather than going through the changes appreciate the feedback
 

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