Ford 3000 issues- not starting

New to forum so if posting in wrong place please forgive me.
I just purchased a Ford 3000
3 cyl. gas tractor and having issue of not starting.It had been running ok but one day decided not to start and hasn't started since. I have done a complete tune up- coil, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, plugs.
Have spark to all plugs but not a great-blue spark. Have checked voltage all the way through circuit and have 12.44v to points. Gap on plugs and points set to .025. New battery and clean connections both pos/neg. When I purchased tractor it ran a little rough and owner suggested a tune-up and carb. overhaul and i agreed.
Fuel. I noticed when tractor was running a small amount of gas dripping from carb. but took that as possible bad gasket and rebuild would fix that. I rebuilt carb-Holley and still same problem. Carb only begins to leak when trying to start tractor. Felt i missed something on carb rebuild so purchased an ebay carb. same issue with new carb fuel leaking when cranking motor. BTW tractor has electric fuel pump. I have discounted fuel pump at times to see if that resolve leak and it doesn't.
Other notes- fresh gas , clean fuel filters.
Performed compression test and here may be an issue but have been told tractor should at least start. Both wet and dry test
1 70 psi 2 80 psi. 3 70psi. What i have read these are low readings and i agree but should the tractor at least start?
Any suggestions would be great!!!

That compression is pretty low, you might be able to pull start it. Have you tried to get it to pop on starting fluid? That fuel dripping is due to the updraft carb setup. Fuel and air is sucked uphill into the intake ports, it runs back down the manifold and out the little sintered brass plug in the plate at the bottom of the carb.

Some background please. How did you do the compression test? All plugs out, throttle wide open. battery fully charged and charger to keep the battery up for all cylinders, and crank until the gauge stopped going up (usually 5-6 revolutions) on each cylinder?

Even new batteries can be weak. Is the battery up to snuff? How fast is it cranking?

If you plug a plug right after cranking the engine, is it wet with fuel?

During the complete tune up, you posted you changed the plug wires. Could possibly a couple have gotten crossed? If you pull number 1 plug, put your finger over the plug hole, and turn it over. Does the rotor line up with that cylinder's post in the distributor cap when #1 cylinder comes up on compression? (Timing marks will line up at TDC of the exhaust stroke as well as on compression so those alone are not a reliable indication of being at the right place for the rotor to line up with #1 to fire.) From that #1 post, are the plug wires in the right firing order around the cap in the direction the rotor turns? Did you loosen and turn the distributor by chance?

It is not uncommon for gas to drip out the bottom (sintered bronze filter) of an updraft carb after failing to start.

Do you know when the valve clearances were last adjusted?

Well I found the problem. I felt all along that it was out of timing but just not sure where. I had purchased a tune up kit and when installing new plug wires they didn't seem to snap onto the top of the plug but only
snap into the head itself. Purchased automotive plug wires that had long narrow boot for the spark plus side and she started up immediately and runs great. The timing issue was electrical and that plugs where firing
late if not at all.

(quoted from post at 08:38:39 12/22/21) Well I found the problem. I felt all along that it was out of timing but just not sure where. I had purchased a tune up kit and when installing new plug wires they didn't seem to snap onto the top of the plug but only
snap into the head itself. Purchased automotive plug wires that had long narrow boot for the spark plus side and she started up immediately and runs great. The timing issue was electrical and that plugs where firing
late if not at all.

Click to expand...

Good to hear you found the problem and got it fixed. I would call that a lack of continuity through the plug wires issue, not timing. If the timing was not near correct, just seating the ends of the sparkplug wires wouldn't have started it. Basically, timing is the relationship of the points opening to TDC of the compression stroke of the pistons.

Agree on timing reference. Just glad to get it running.

Now that it running lets see the compression numbers.