How to split tractor advice

Folks this is on a 64 Ford 2000 gas tractor w/ 4 spd trans. Basically same tractor as the 600 series tractors. Ive had a slow transmission leak for couple years that wasnt bad but yesterday after pulling some trees out of woods for firewood noticed a steady stream going down the road/pulling into garage. Yes its diffidently trans as fluid is not oil, the hydraulics and rear end levels are good but shifting getting little sticky. From what I read all points to trans input shaft seal and have to split the tractor to replace seal. My questions/requests are:
1) does anyone have pics/video or links to such as to how to do this using average Joe garage tools and setup? Meaning best way to support/move tractor using wood/jacks/homemade stands/etc.
2) Once I get it split recommendations what else to do/replace while its apart?
Any/all advice appreciated
 
I've split several of them in my shop by blocking the rear tires and supporting the rear with jack stands with a short I-beam under the trans. near the split point of the tractor. I use a cherry picker on the
rear part of the front end near where it splits with a sling around the rear of the engine.(Come in from the front of the tractor) You can move it slowly forward,(it helps if you have someone to make sure the
front wheels stay straight as your moving it),of course you need to be on a cement floor and disconnect the front steering and support rods, electric and anything else connected between the two pieces, work
carefully and you will be surprised how easy it can be. Hope this makes sense to you, my E-mail is open.
 
Did a 641 this spring. Take a floor jack or bottle jack which ever one you have & just lift the center of the tractor to
put some timbers under the front of the transmission. Drain the hydraulics roughly 3 gallons, remove the manifold from
the transmission to the hydraulic pump. Replace the o-rings while you are at it. Cut some 2x4 wedges to slide into the
front axle pivot keeping the engine from rocking side to side when it is out but it will allow you to keep the front axle
on & allow you to roll it forward. A 2x6x 12 on a floor jack under the oil pan should allow you to roll everything
forward. I don't know about the hood & gas tank coming off but they maybe able to stay on, just remember to take the 6
large phillips head bolts from the dash out. have friend give you a hand if you have never done it before.
 
I think it works better to leave the front end in place and roll the rear end away from it. The back end is more stable to move. Remember to do something to keep the front end from flopping sideways when you separate the tractor. Make some alignment dowels (long bolts with the heads cut off) when putting the halves back together.
 
I prefer the opposite because of sheer mass. Most tractor splits are between the engine and transmission. I'd much prefer to roll only an engine as opposed to a transmission and rear axle combined. Also, tractors roll much easier on smooth front tires (2WD) as opposed to lugged rear tires.
 
Before I bought a set of splitting stands and a track, I have split dozens and dozens of tractors all the way up to 150 HP, with 2 floor
jacks. Be sure and wedge the front axle, so it don't tilt over sideways. Simple, common sense job.
 
I just split my 841 to replace the clutch. I filmed the whole process and put it on Youtube. They aren't great videos, but I explained what I did and learned. I used a floor jack, jackstands, and a cherry picker hoist. Look for Ford 841 Powermaster Tractor Ep11: Split Tractor / Replace Clutch and you'll find it. Oh wait, there's a way to add links to the post, hopefully that will work.
Ford 841 Powermaster Tractor Ep11: Split Tractor / Replace Clutch 1 Prepare to split the tractor
 
You got plenty of good advice on the split. To answer your other question, I would replace the clutch while your at it.
 
I split a 3-cyl 2000 on a dirt floor. Floor jack from behind under the trans and ran it on two 3 inch angle irons. I split an E4 narrow front the same way but used a cherry picker from
behind reaching over with a strap under the trans.
 
I made a engine stand/brace out of 2x6 cut to length to support the engine block at the oil pan. This prevented the engine assembly from rotating on the axle bolster. Next I rigged a 2x4 A frame to come along lift the steering wheel/steering box/front sheet metal. Next unbolt the steering box and separate the transmission. Roll the trans and rear end back on floor jack. Inspect flywheel/ring gear, clutch, throw-out bearing and renew as necessary.
 
(quoted from post at 10:39:32 10/24/21) Before I bought a set of splitting stands and a track, I have split dozens and dozens of tractors all the way up to 150 HP, with 2 floor
jacks. Be sure and wedge the front axle, so it don't tilt over sideways. Simple, common sense job.

wedge the front axle- is that just sliding 2x4 between front wheel and axle or is there more to it?
 


As Bob NY posted, you always block the front and roll the rear. The front axle pivot, even with the wooden wedges driven in place, can loosen up during the process of apart and back in with all the pushing, especially if it doesn't go smoothly the first time, and suddenly it tips over. The SAFE way to do it is by getting a trailer jack with the wheel on it and attaching it RIGIDLY to the side of the center housing through a bracket that you fabricate. It usually bolts on through three of the holes that the bolts that hold the circular plate onto the left side go into after removing the left running board. With this set up you can do all the pushing around that you want and it will stay up. Even though the rear part may weigh a little more than the front, you get great leverage pushing on those big tires, and we all know that big tires roll more easily than small ones.
 
(quoted from post at 19:16:10 10/24/21)
How to wedge the front axle?

mvphoto83634.jpg


mvphoto83635.jpg
 

Folks thanks for all the good advise and wisdom on matter. Feel a lot more confident about getting this done now and will start looking at parts.
Question I should have asked is do all agree leak is most likely from transmission input shaft seal (dripping badly from counter pin hole, is not engine oil, hydraulic and rear end oil levels good but trans oil has to be routinely filled)?
Followed by WHERE is the transmission input shaft seal and do I split tractor at trans/engine joint or trans/rear end joint?
 
(quoted from post at 06:05:13 10/25/21)
Folks thanks for all the good advise and wisdom on matter. Feel a lot more confident about getting this done now and will start looking at parts.
Question I should have asked is do all agree leak is most likely from transmission input shaft seal (dripping badly from counter pin hole, is not engine oil, hydraulic and rear end oil levels good but trans oil has to be routinely filled)?
Followed by WHERE is the transmission input shaft seal and do I split tractor at trans/engine joint or trans/rear end joint?

The input shaft is receiving power from the engine. I don't know what you mean by "counter pin hole" but if it's the weep/drain hole under for forward of the shifter, then yes, it's the input shaft seal and you'll want to split at the engine. If you have an inspection/bore hole camera, you can look inside the clutch cavity to see for sure what's leaking.
 
Yes sorry the the drain/weep hole/inspection plate where the cotter pin is supposed to be. Thanks didnt want to split in wrong joint and end up having tractor in 3 pieces!
 
(quoted from post at 08:38:02 10/25/21) Haven't tried this yet, but I am going to give it a try when I do the clutch in my Jubilee.
mvphoto83643.jpg


Hdonly, thanks for posting that! That is the only really safe way to do it.
 

Showcrop when you say the circular plate on left side by running, are you referring to plate with PTO lever and hydraulic dip stick?

mvphoto83651.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:41:41 10/25/21)
Showcrop when you say the circular plate on left side by running, are you referring to plate with PTO lever and hydraulic dip stick?

mvphoto83651.jpg


Yes, that is it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:35:21 10/25/21) Question how does that bolt to tractor? It looks its bolted to rear end/trans joint or am I missing something?

That's what it looks like to me. I'd guess you would have to build a mount that fits your tractor and bolts to the trailer jack. I haven't done it yet, but I plan to.
 
(quoted from post at 09:00:45 10/26/21)
(quoted from post at 17:35:21 10/25/21) Question how does that bolt to tractor? It looks its bolted to rear end/trans joint or am I missing something?

That's what it looks like to me. I'd guess you would have to build a mount that fits your tractor and bolts to the trailer jack. I haven't done it yet, but I plan to.


See my first post on this thread.
 
(quoted from post at 18:48:21 10/26/21)
(quoted from post at 09:00:45 10/26/21)
(quoted from post at 17:35:21 10/25/21) Question how does that bolt to tractor? It looks its bolted to rear end/trans joint or am I missing something?

That's what it looks like to me. I'd guess you would have to build a mount that fits your tractor and bolts to the trailer jack. I haven't done it yet, but I plan to.


See my first post on this thread.

Yessir, I should pay better attention. As my Daddy always told me "Use that head for something besides a hat rack".
 

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