Need help with Ford 3000

I am coming from the red page. I am working on a Ford 3000 that they use at the local Boy Scout camp. It has been sitting for almost a year. There was a huge mouse nest on top of the spark plugs. They have chewed on everything. I found the distributor but to make it worse it has a front end loader on it. I can barely see the distributor let alone get my hand in there to work on it. It also sits right under what I assume is the water manifold for the 3 cylinders. I hate to throw parts at it because one, it is not mine and it may not be cost effective to start on it. Wanted to see what you people thought about it. Thanks for your time.

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C1023C is a 3000 general purpose ag chassis tractor with a gas engine, independent PTO and an 8 speed transmission.

Unit number 4K30B says it left the assembly line on October 30 1974 during the day shift.

19-529 is the frame for a model 730 loader.

The manifold above the distributor is the intake manifold. I do believe that it has ports in it for coolant to circulate through it.

If it has been properly maintained it should be a good reliable tractor.

Is there anything more specific that you want to know about it?
 
(quoted from post at 20:10:12 10/19/21)
Good post Sean except it's Live PTO.

My old brain keeps making more and more mistakes like that the older I get. I knew it was live PTO but my brain typed independent anyway.
 
I just wondered how hard is it to get the cap off the distributor and replace the points and cap? Also, where is the coil located? The problem that I ran across is when they parked the tractor, they tilted the bucket and lowered it to the ground. The battery tray will only swing out less than 1/2 way open. Then is hits on the loader raising cylinder. I need to see back under the dash to see if the mice where under there eating wires. The front spark plug cap was eaten away and the hole with the plug in it was full of water. There has been very little if any maintenance done on this tractor in a long while.
 
I've had the distributor cap off a few times on my '73 4000 since I installed a loader on it. It is basically the same layout as the 3000. It is tight, but I have managed to do it.
 
I have a 2000 3-cyl. Not bad to get the cap off if you're just gapping but I found it easier to pull the whole distributor to change them. Then timing it again is a pain.
 
Where is the coil? I am to the point of hot wiring the coil and see if it will at least start. Also, get it run so I can get the loader off the ground.
 
(quoted from post at 03:19:15 10/21/21) Where is the coil? I am to the point of hot wiring the coil and see if it will at least start. Also, get it run so I can get the loader off the ground.

Being a former Scout leader for 4+ years, I never did any volunteer work that did not involve the scouts.

First things first, PUT ON THE PARKING BRAKE. Then get that loader raised up by hand using a block and any two trees nearby. Secure the ropes to the arms not the bucket where there might be sharp edges to cut the ropes.

While raising the loader have another rope tied to the innermost control handle of the loader controls. That should be the one that control flow to the bucket lift. While the biggest boys in the Troop or Pack pull down and safely off to the side have one pull back on the rope tied to that innermost handle. That will allow fluid to flow. When raised up all the way or at least high enough to work on the tractor, tie off the pulling end of the tackle.

Next cut a stout 4x4 or two to wedge under the joint(s) between the arms and bucket pivot point. Wedge them in snug but not so much that the tackle loosens up.

A winch over a pulley up in a tree or in an A frame will work also if you don't have anyone to help.

I can also tell you which Knots will work best. And remember If you can't tie a Knot, tie a lot of knots.

Tom
 

I am not familiar with the gasoline Fords, but a quick search through the interwebs shows the coil placed under the carburetor. Marked with an X in a copy of your picture.

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Thanks for all of your help. I would never have seen the coil down there. I was looking all over the top of the engine. Not having a manual
is proving to be a hindrance. I will probably try the hot wire trip and see if I can get that to work.
 
I have some links for you, but this forum does not allow me to put them in a post. Your message function is disabled.

If you want them, activate the "Always show my e-mail address:" in your profile. This will, of course, not show your e-mail address. It will show a button in each of your posts that says "email". That makes it possible to send you an e-mail.

This post was edited by Hacke on 10/21/2021 at 06:46 am.
 
This assumes he's running Modern view which
I don't think he is.
I would guess that well over 50% of the
members here use Classic view.
You should try it.
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:29 10/21/21) This assumes he's running Modern view which
I don't think he is.
I would guess that well over 50% of the
members here use Classic view.
You should try it.

I have been trying to understand what is going on in the Classic View world, but it is still a mystery to me. Why have two variants of the same forum in the first place?

I can not find any instructions. This is what I think is correct about Classic View:
There is no Profile Settings page.
The settings in Modern View will not follow the username ("Handle") into Classic View.

If you want users to be able to contact you through e-mail, you have to include your e-mail address in the head of the post form. The link at the right bottom corner will then be "[Send Email]" instead of "[No Email]", for that particular post.
There is no way to edit a post.

Replies follow a mysterious order, what is the idea behind this? It is hard to follow a discussion when posts are not in chronological order.

I have tried it. Done.
 
You can raise the loader without the engine running. Jumper cables on the battery and just spin engine. Its slow but it works, raise it in increments so you dont damage starter. You must block that loader up mechanically before working on it. If a lift cylinder line blows, the bucket will hit the ground much faster than you can move.
 
You can raise the loader without the engine running. Jumper cables on the battery and just spin engine. Its slow but it works, raise it in increments so you dont damage starter. You must block that loader up mechanically before working on it. If a lift cylinder line blows, the bucket will hit the ground much faster than you can move.
 
This place was only Classic for many years.
But because guys were too lazy to learn a
few keystrokes of html to post photos they
cobbled Modern onto Classic so now both
views are kinda fubar.
Classic vs Modern is like an old Ford
compared to a new Kubota. Classic didn't
have all the bells and whistles but it was
rugged, reliable and easy to fix when
something went wrong.
In Classic you can type your email into one
post and it will continue to show it in
your posts forever.
 
Hi

You have to copy and paste these links:

Operator's Manual:
https://www.link_disallowed/manuals/tractors/Operators%20Manual%20All%20Purpose%20and%20LCG%20Tractors%202000,3000,4000,and%205000.pdf

Shop Manual:
https://www.tractorforum.com/attachments/shopmanual_ford_2_3_4000_v2-pdf.72426/

Parts List in a PDF:
https://www.tractorforum.com/attachments/ford_3000_parts-pdf.70861/

Parts Lists online:
https://spare.avspart.com/catalog/newholland/67519/
https://www.messicks.com/commoncatalog?vendor=nh&modelId=137981


Hope it helps, Good Luck.
 

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