4000 4cyl marvel-schrebel

Dirtsmith

Member
My 4cyl Ford 4000 started running rough. I shut it down and left it. Fast Forward a few months (to yesterday), it restarted once, I left it to warm up, it ran for about 3 minutes then quit. It sounded a couple times like it wanted to turn over again, but it never did. It had a tune-up, about a year ago, ran well, until it did not. It has ethanol-free gas in it and I threw in some Heet gas dryer as it was sitting, covered, but sitting for those last few months.

I pulled the plugs, they looked clean, though I could not see the spark (maybe because of the sunlight?) but I was holding it wrong, grounded myself and felt a jolt. The plugs seem fine; wires seem fine. Compression was strong - no tester - just felt it blowing out the spark plug hole with force.

Perhaps the carburetor needs a rebuild? When my ATV started running poorly, rebuilding its carb fixed the problem so why not the tractor... (as my logic goes).

So digging around, leads me to believe the carburetor could need some attention. The sediment bowl was filled with junk, so cleaned it out. The screen had some junk, I cleaned it out. I pulled the drain plug and some fuel came out, not a gushing stream but it was flowing. When I put the plug back in and sediment bowl back on, the sediment bowl filled up quickly. (I have an inline fuel shut-off 1/4 turn valve in the line).

Anyway, the carburetor is a Marvel-Schrable - but the tag was removed. It was not a brass plate, but a metal tag attached with by one of the screws in the carburetor body.

The ONLY identifying marks I can find is a 10 that was part of the casting and the name Marvel-Schrebel that was also part of the casting.

In the absence of an identifying tag, is there a reliable way for me to identify the model of Marvel-Schrebel carburetor that is on my tractor so that I can determine the correct rebuild kit?

Here are a couple images of the carburetor in question.

cvphoto103275.jpg


cvphoto103276.jpg
 

I just noticed that I misspelled the manufacturers name of the carb EVERY SINGLE TIME I typed it. I appreciate that nobody poked me in the eye for that.

This issue still exists for me. I have the carb off of the tractor now.

It appears that my carb is a TSX-something. I found a website that has some measurements to compare against what I have.

I appears that the carb is a "medium" sized Marvel-Schebler TSX model.

Some posts about carbs mentioned boiling the carb to clean it; what is the carb boiled in? Water? That's a real question - I know it sounds obtuse.

If I were to try to boiling method to clean is a rebuild kit still a good idea or overkill?

Thanks again for any insight that is offered.
 

Yours looks exactly like the tsx-662 that's on my 841. I used a kit and rebuilt mine a few months ago, used carb cleaner but mine wasn't all that dirty.
 
My brass tag was on the upright facing the air cleaner and it took some serious cleaning to be able to read it. You didn't provide a picture of that but is anything there?
 

Thank you for your suggestion to check the upright. I'll look around for some other place where the carb model might be found, but there is a broken metal tag on the carb, which is why I did not continue to look for another tag.

TSX-662 - sounds reasonable to me! Thank you.

The carb is currently on my bench looking very sad.

TSC has some Marvel-Schebler carb rebuild kits but the gasket in the kit they offer does not match up to what I have.

Would you be able to share where you sourced your rebuild kit?
 
Well sir, one place they're available is here at yesterday's tractors. Com.

I got mine elsewhere, but the forum filter blocks that kind of information. If you email me privately, I'm happy to share.
 
The online Ford parts books show three different MS carbs were used on the 4000, 4 cylinder. One with the 134 engine (TSX765) and two TSX813 and TSX769) with the 172 engine, based on a serial number split. The kit for the carb on the 134 is different from the kit number for the two on the 172 engine in the Standard Motor Products Carb Kit listings. The kit numbers are Kit #861A for the TSX765 and kit #1303 for the TSX 813 and 769 (this same kit shows for the TSX662). Some parts stores have/can get the SMP kits. O'Reilly's has/can get Walker kits I think.
 

I never even thought to search O'Reilly's for the carb rebuild kit; I wrongly assumed they were strictly an auto-parts store.

Thank you for helping me to narrow down what I am looking for - I found the kit you indicated. This might be my best option.

You know that once I have the puzzle solved, I am putting this info in the notes I keep about my tractor.
 

Sounds like a good plan.
The carb kit is available at oreilly?? I wouldn't have thought to look there either.
 

It is available. I however, do not have an o'Reilly near me and as of yet, I have not found a way to put this item in a 'shopping cart' without first selecting a physical location. This suggests to me they are a 'store pickup' model as opposed to shipping direct to the consumer.

I have not called to confirm this yet, but that is how it is looking for me right now.

Also, some kits were found on the on-line auction sites, but I don't have a lot of experience shopping there.
 

Stores 'close enough' to me are Autozone, Advanced-Auto, Napa, Pep-Boys, and Fisher - but it never occurred to me to check with any of them - prior to this conversation.

I am already checking their on-line inventories, I had the most hope for Napa, but so far, I am either doing my search incorrectly, or the part I am looking for is not available through these outlets.
 
(quoted from post at 11:56:26 02/28/22)
Stores 'close enough' to me are Autozone, Advanced-Auto, Napa, Pep-Boys, and Fisher - but it never occurred to me to check with any of them - prior to this conversation.

I am already checking their on-line inventories, I had the most hope for Napa, but so far, I am either doing my search incorrectly, or the part I am looking for is not available through these outlets.

Talk to someone. Unless you know the brand kit, they carry you may not see them online, not everything they can get is online. I would be surprised if the store stocks it. Like many slow-moving parts (I doubt they sell may tractor carb kits) they often have to pull them out of a warehouse. I don't know where you are located but some of them, Maybe Fisher, will have access to Standard Motor Products part, SMP has a carb kit catalog.
 
(quoted from post at 13:30:50 02/28/22)
(quoted from post at 11:56:26 02/28/22)

You make a good point, there is not much need to spend time building out 'web space' for what is likely a very slow moving part.

I'll "let my fingers do the walking" and see what I can turn up.

You've been a tremendous help.

Thank you for your time.

I hope to have a repair kit by this weekend.
 
I finally have my carburetor rebuilt.

The engine is running again - but it is NOT ok as it is.

What is weird is that the throttle position does not seem to matter - that is my biggest indication that something is wrong.

When I first started it, the engine only ran with the choke partially open. It would rev then start sputter, then rev up again.

I adjusted the needle on the bottom of the carb to even that out, but now, any other adjustment I have made to the other things I can adjust, seem to have no impact on its performance.

Aside from all of that, I have question about the choke spring. I put the loop in the spring over the post and ran the choke shaft through the coil then adjusted the shaft to catch the end of the spring that gives the tension. The spring did not seem strong enough like that, so I added one twist to the spring by turning the choke shaft one revolution before moving it to its final position.

Should I have done that?

I need to figure out how to adjust this carb, as it is definitely not running correctly, but I am just glad I was able to get meh ole Ford running agin.
 
My tractor does the exact same thing as yours... until it's warm. Choke to start, runs, starts to die, momentary choke to revive. So I'm interested in hearing what others say, but to also recommend letting her warm up and seeing if the behavior continues.
I originally got a choke spring that was wound in the wrong direction, so I learned they are very easy to break. If your choke works, the spring tension shouldn't matter.
 

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